hardsteppa

2 things - if you're tracking the car def go the 8/6 spring combo, they're a bit harsh on street sometimes but quite liveable. I woyldn't want softer on the track myself. Also the chassis bracing you mention - i poo-pooed alot of the bracing you see for skylines - until i actually tried it, and now i'm a huge fan. PM me if you would like any further info on that, its already been covered in threads on here.

as you can adjust the spring perch at will to accommodate for the extra length and still keep same ride height, I couldn't see anything tragic happening. You might get more spring travel from the extra length? Try it.

tht's why I say "adjust it most likely" . Because some can't, some can. But it's not that hard, OP how handy with a spanner are you?

Kostas - I do my own tuning and don't go to a dyno, so can't say. But you will see them making 230-250rwkw on 16-19 psi.

Brisbane 'ere.

shed cleanout part 3 - just recently pulled this turbo off my R33 GTST. It has done exactly 13,981 k's from March 2014 to Aug 2015 (I keep a maintenance log book lol)with oil/filter changed 3 times during that period, turbo still in excellent order and no issues, guaranteed. This comes ready to fit to stock manifold and standard R33 6-bolt dump pipe, but you will need new water lines (about $60 at Enzed, Pirtek etc or make them yourself) as I have used them on the new turbo. The kit from Kinugawa originally isn't quite bolt-on as they claim but is now (with exception of water lines). Included in sale is - Kinugawa TD05-18G turbocharger, with 8cm exhaust housing, wastegate ported out to avoid boost creep - spare 10cm exhaust housing, wastegate ported out to avoid boost creep - 1x spacer plate, port-matched from ex manifold to turbine entry - 4x longer studs to allow for spacer plate - 2x dump pipe gaskets, 3x turbine housing gaskets - 1x Kinugawa adjustable actuator with 7psi spring - 1x spare Kinugawa 12psi spring - 1x spare standard shaft nut, 1x spare aluminium bullet-head shaft nut, 1x spare steel bullet-head shaft nut. All new/unused - 1x oil drain outlet (does not fit R33 oil drain hose, I just drilled 2 new holes in the stock metal drain outlet to make it multi-fitment as shown in pics below, so this is new/unused) - 1x braided oilfeed hose, with 2x banjo fittings - 2x banjo fittings>AN fittings for water lines - 1x silicone compressor outlet elbow to aluminium joiner pipe, to join to your stock piping $450 for the lot, and can post anywhere in Aus for $30. I don't think you'll find a better-priced turbo upgrade anywhere but if you do, feel free to put an offer in on it.

shed cleanup - have a Gizzmo IBC-R boost controller for sale, in good working order guaranteed. Has had the standard plastic connector replaced with a quality waterproof Deutsch connector where it goes in the engine bay, cause I'm a stickler for detail where it counts. Boost control solenoid is already on a mounting bracket too. This is the rpm-programmable model from Gizzmo and has everything you need BUT, the wires pulled out of the back connector where it joins to the main unit, and I haven't been able to find the right connector in Jaycar, it should be about $10 from Gizzmo in Melbourne for a replacement though. Instruction manual included. $130 plus $7 to post anywhere in Aus or pickup in Brisbane, that is already a good price so pls no haggling/low offers.

shed cleanup - found 2x R33 7psi wastegate actuators in a parts box. Both in good order, both have had mounting bolt holes elongated for Hypergear hiflows, all that means is you can preload them a little for more boost when bolting them on, otherwise just bolt them in standard position. $20 each, pick up if in Brissy otherwise will post anywhere in Oz for you my friend, $5 flat rate.

wouldn't have to be drift, a lot of people who own skylines modify them in a similar way. Before you ditch the mechanical centre, you could check the settings and adjust it most likely to make it more street friendly. Eg set it to 1-way, not 2way, alter the order of the clutch plates to make it lock less harshly.

that's funny, what you describe is a mechanical diff centre in action. Agreed it's not particularly gentle but as above, if you fit a standard vlsd you'll like cornering and driving in general ALOT less, the mechanical lsd rocks for any kind of performance driving over the stock unit. Here in aus 2ndhand vlsd complete diffs go for about $2-300 so you'd definitely be able to get ALOT more for your mechanical centre if you decide to swap it out.

no worries. It was well over a year when I did mine and can't recall how much it needed to be lengthened but we are talking 1 or 2mm, it's a very small adjustment. Don't know if you've played around with your on alignments much but once you're in the range of where you want to be it comes down to very small adjustments indeed. Eg - front tie rods/rack ends, 1/2 a turn of these gives a couple of mm toe change (sorry not near my notes to say exactly) and I end up making adjustments like 1/8th of a turn to get it feeling 'just right'. Anyway what I'm getting at is, if you work out the percentage of how much it needs to be lengthened and you look at it and go, it's almost exactly the bloody same, it probably won't be once you get it on the car and it's doing it's job. You can make a bump-steer gauge for around $100, main cost of that is the micrometer which is handy for all sorts of other measurements anyway and good to have if you've not got already.

I suggest lengthening them by the same percentage as you lengthened the rear camber arms, as a starting point.

Wait, all those mods, and.. stock turbo? Whats full boost, is your max/full boost the stock 7 psi or 25 psi...?

Changes to exhaust cam, eg via adjustable gear, will have it off centre.

Exactly, all the air temp sensor does is allow you to add an extra trim for fuel/ignition. Worthwhile, but not crucial.

Are you saying you had done as suggested and contacted Wolf in Melb, and they were unable to help you? And you have been unable to find the wolf pinout diagram online, also as suggested?

"HI"? what the hell's that supposed to mean, some sort of drug reference??? j/ks, welcome son, sit back, enjoy the free tea n coffee, but no stealing the guest soaps from the men's room.

Convert to twin turbo, then you can have deuce-dose.

wait... recently resprayed ignition barrel has been stuffed/forced no pics being put up of car engine has been taken out it's in Geelong anyone missing an R34 GTT lol... how much rego it have left on it anyway..?

^^they are a good value-for-money turbo, I would certainly agree there. Mine has been on about 18 months... still in very good order the 2nd lot of porting I did I probably should have left more of a lip to funnel flow into the wastegate rather than smoothing it into the turbine, but, bit late now.

Wolf runs an internal 21psi map sensor. As I understand it the ecu itself is the standard wolf universal ecu, they just reconfigure the pins to the vehicle specific wiring loom and load it with a base map, making it 'plugin'. hence me saying it should still have pins for air temp sensor as standard.

use the AC Delco air temp sensor http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-AC-DELCO-HOLDEN-VL-VN-VG-VP-VR-VS-AIR-TEMP-SENSOR-COMMODORE-TEMPERATURE-/251111882110?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3a776f3d7e which you will need to fit into intake piping somewhere. The calibration table should still be available on the Wolf site, if not PM me and I can email it to you. I used a plugin Wold 3d on my other car but it already runs an airtemp sensor so it was just a matter of fitting the new plug to those wires. Your Wolf will almost certainly have pins for the airtemp sensor even if rb20's don't use one, so you would just need to find them on the ecu's pinout diagram and then fit extra pins into the back of your stock ecu harness to include it in the wiring. (***disclaimer I have never seen your car or its' wiring and take no legal liability for the accuracy of my post content)

Mine's probably more a whistle sound that a whine actually. They're cheap enough, if yours does need replaceage

I went to a bosch alternator that has the fan on the front of it rather than in the casing. Has a similar whine but sounds sexier, like a jet engine idling, i like it. Once the revs go up you can't hear it anymore, i just put it down to the fan audibly moving air through thr alternator now. So anyway your alt's not a new bosch one is it?

well, you can't go wrong with that Hot4's cover, i'll say that much.