hardsteppa

why would you recommend keeping a pod filter, what are you basing that on, did you get before and after dyno results? And did you end up getting a wideband, and doing a tune and making sure afr's are correct? or you would just 'recommend' this be done?

I agree, curse them for making a simple and effective well-priced boost controller that has been used worldwide successfully on countless cars Like I said, once you get used to thinking in duty cycle it's easy enough. You should try tuning an avcr including using the gear based option, lot more dicking about there rather than just a couple of settings. The duty cycle has everything to do with THE actuator, it's just not a straightforward equation to YOUR actuator....you need to figure it out how much percentage duty cycle bleeds boost away from your actuator until you reach the target boost you're after, and then use start-gain and gain to make it come on quick, and then hold the boost level you want. I'll stop now, as this is all 'search results'.

water is not like oil but oil is like water in this case, it falls from above like rain. Oil feed goes on top, drain underneath. 2x waterlines flow crossways.

I put a capful of oil into the turbo itself once installed (into the oil inlet hole, to be specific, eg don't go pouring it into the compressor outlet), then put on the oilfeed line. I usually change the oil whenever installing a new turbo too, and crank the engine till oil pressure light goes off (if you have an immobiliser fitted you don't need to pull any fuses etc, it already won't start), then start her up. Drive normally till at operating temperature, then turn car off, go inside and play Street Fighter 2 Hyper edition on SNES, and let car cool down completely. My theory on that being let seals/bearings etc reach operating temperature before being subject to excessive load, and then all settle into place as they cool down, after going through a heat cycle. Maybe not needed but I've never had any turbo issues, they have all lasted 30,000 years doing it that way.

Its not a percentage of your actuator, its a percentage of duty cycle. Differenet types of cars have different actuators so the base pressure is different for each, a setting that equals 12psi on one would not automatically equal 12 on another. Its just a number, once you understand it its quite easy to work with.

it could be your afm playing up. But more likely a cylinder misfiring.

That's ok, no need to thank me, your thread is now usable information to people, rather than....well, you know.

I found the difference to be in the on-off throttle responsiveness, rather than outright power, with blocked obviously giving the best response and making the throttle more 'twitchy'.

I've read that too, the conical tapering out from the turbine housing is the 'ideal' design (due to gasses exiting in a spiral fashion?) and with this in mind thought the split pipe would work best, as it did have a nice conical taper at the start of the pipe from the flange. But, I bought both a split pipe (wen the extra mile of ported flanges to give a good smooth entry taper to both pipes) and a bellmouth pipe, and tested back to back....bellmouth was much better, car pulled noticeably harder. I put it down to one of those 'ideal on paper but not in use' things....as in, if you were designing a setup completely from scratch you could come up with a better setup, but fitting a premade product into a premade space and throwing in only 1 aspect of the 'ideal' design like the conical taper, just doesn't cut it so the 'as much space as possible, as soon as possible' design of the bellmouth worked best.

lol, story of my life right there ..anyway, safc neo settings lo throttle - 42%. Hi 50% I now have zero adjustment on low throttle, hi thr rpm point settings are 1050 rpm -6 2200 -7 2800 -7 3200 -7 3500 -7 3800 -7 4100 -5 4500 -5 4800 -6 5100 -5 5500 -3 5800 0 6200 0 6600 0 7000 0 7500 0 Playing around with the safc it's limitations become so apparent, but, I stand by it being suitable for making minor adjustments. If there was a 3rd throttle setting between the hi and low it would make it a lot more usable, as I found using low settings ended up having some sort of unwanted trade-off, hence the low settings ending up being set back to zero. Main thing is I no longer hit r&r in the midrange; achieving 11.5 average afr in that range hasn't made heaps more power but it does stop the annoying cut and picks up *some* power, will be interesting to see on the dyno if I ever get the car there.

So Trent you no doubt know R33 ignition maps like the back of your hand, I am sure you've seen tons. So would appreciate your input - when taking fuel out, by my understanding all that happens is the ecu sees less load by way of a lower voltage afm signal, effectively dropping it down to the next load band (dependent on how much fuel you take out of course) while still keeping it in the same rpm band. So, dropping 7% means it goes from 100% load under full throttle to 93% load, effectively dropping from the top over-rich/retarded load band to the next load band down, or maybe 2nd down. I haven't seen that there is a massive change in timing in the upper bands of the ignition map until you get a few bands further down. I've yet to find a copy of the stock ecu ignition map but from the maps I have seen, this would mean maybe it adds 1-2 degrees timing max by dropping down 1 or 2 load bands - would you say as an average, that is correct?

yeah that is a rocker cover breather, should be a hose to intake unless not stock/been modded, even then should be a filter or something on there, not an open port. Not familiar with rb20's myself, I suggest you google image search for a pic of a stock one to see what it should look like.

you're right, none of our bizzness how you spend your dollars earned, but - when you post a topic on a public forum you're opening the subject to people's opinions and input, on what you put forward...be it car mods or employment situations. If you just need a turbo to do the job before your current one blows (which Stao has offered to assist you with, either cheaply or free, very good customer service) that is a completely different cup o' tea to going to a custom hi mount setup to reach a HP goal and spending extra $$$ on achieving said turbo setup and supporting mods.

I will also put fwd, search....not like not been asked before. Sounds unhelpful but is actually quite helpful. cause i'm that kind of guy. Helpful....to a point.

actually, just re-read your post and have to say, wtf. Why would you want to blank off the bov, and then if you're going to drill a hole in the plate you made so that air goes thru again, why not just remove the plate?? especially as you say the car was running fine before you fitted this. And if you really want to keep it, you don't need a wideband as you don't want to mess with the tune settings; read up on the decel.air function, that's what you need to set up properly. Stagea97, I had trouble finding anyone's safc settings. Most ppl just post something like 'oh but their tune won't match yours' and no-one ends up posting anything. I mean of course the tunes would be different, but for comparison's sake it would be handy to see them. For mine, from memory only added 1-2% in the 3600-4400 rpm range under low throttle as it leaned out a fraction when hitting boost there, and on hi took out 7% to about 3800, then 5% tapering down to 0 at 5800, where it goes to 11.5 without any adjustment needed. Now have 11-11.8 afr across rpm range under boost, will note down full settings and post up shortly.

You need a wideband gauge for sure to tune it. Post up all the settings it cuurently has and i might be able to give some advice, have just finished tuning an safc neo on rb25 here.

Or you could use that really really dark green, so dark it's almost black. Theyre easily available everywhere.

*sigh* he has 1 post to date. How do you train someone who's new? you don't know? ok i'll tell you. tell them what to do. show them what to do. watch them do it. repeat as needed. Mix in some helpful ribbing like 'hahaha don't you know, you dumb c*nt' to toughen them up, and you're done. so now OP has been given some shit, and pointed in the right direction to search cos if he's brand new, he probably doesn't know, but now will know. FIGJAM, GTFO, KMAAGH, etc..

or written up a 'how to install a front mount intercooler" like this one here http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133257-r33-s2-step-by-step-fmic-installation/?hl=install+front+mount the fact that no one has ever written and posted the information in the link above amazes me.

I can't believe of all the ppl over the years that have installed a front mount, no one has ever asked this question, or posted about it.

http://www.brisbanemotorimports.com.au/about-us/ this place? would appear to be a legitimate well established business, so would seem strange they just didn't deliver a 4k engine after taking payment. Is there more to the story?

Or me...just around the corner from chermside, will do fir a bottle of good rum

+257 on BrakeWest lines, they are top quality. OP don't pay retail, if you need someone to install and do a fluid flush for you then give me a shout.

i'll just point out, a car is very rarely actually an asset in the true sense of the word, in that it costs you money rather than makes it. If you've done your sums and can afford that much then go for it, but if it's for a real daily driver then wow that's a lot of money to spend on something to just get you there and back.

first you beep the horn, next you're running cars off the road while laughing like a maniac, and kicking stray puppies just cos....It's a slippery slope my friend, and you're wearing rollerskates...