hardsteppa

I find it amazing Autobarn had the best deal. Not to say they didn't, just surprised. How much, for what type?

I could well be. I'm nowhere near either, but thought when I was on the phone to him he said he works in Adelaide and also out of Melbourne sometimes...

I couldn't say but what I could say, is that Paul at Keas in Adelaide is the man to speak to. VERY honest bloke ( he talked me OUT of spending money with him and gave me a few suggestions for me to do myself) and very knowledgeable, check their website.

idle control is opening to full, your base idle is fine if it idles normally once idle control is disconnected. If idle control is still capable of working correctly sometimes then it's either sticking mechanically, so clean it, or it's reacting to a voltage received. Have you checked tps voltages? if not, do so and make sure they're in spec. If you're not prepared to do that, then my other advice is it's probably your brake pads, or the boot lid closer...

Reply to him you will actually be in Florida next week on holidays and would like to meet up then and check out the parts...see what response is forthcoming..

OP i am not familiar with gtr setup only gtst but it sounds like they are refrrring to roll centre sdjustment not bump steer.

this is good advice. Seriously. however it's also advice that has been posted a number of times and easily searchable, hence the smartass replies because the same basic questions are asked when they're already been covered. so where is this forum that has shitting on people, some obscure European IP address maybe...? do you have it handy? and OP you're keen to work on your car which is awesome and you'll find people here happy to help, mixed with smartassness lol. Could be an intermittent sensor issue, you might want to buy the Ecutalk cable so you can troubleshoot all the sensors on a laptop, very handy tool to have, as well as setting idle, ign timing etc. you can download the Nissan workshop manual too if you haven't already, which will tell you the normal operation voltages of sensors.

I would suggest you address the hicas-light...your guy would be hard pressed to overlook a glowing orange safety warning light on the dash.

So, we are talking rear bump steer right? Adjusted through traction rods, which you now have? if you have a dial indicator, making a bump-steer gauge is pretty easy, no shortage of pics for reference on google. Mine cost me about $20 in materials from Bunnings. The dial indicator is the most expensive part. I can send you some pics of mine if you need. For reference - my car is dropped about 30mm. It was a while back now I did it but from what I recall when I adjusted for minimal steer under bump, it would then bind more under droop, so compromise was needed. The 'best' setting I found was set the rear camber to where you want first, then start with the traction rod at stock length, and then increase it by the same percentage length as I had increased the camber arm. That setting has worked fine for me and gave the best bump/droop readings so hadn't worried about it any more than that, but then again I'm not track-ing the car.

Lol, love the PC auto-correct

He's sayin is a top bloke and is just trollin.. Relax bro

Well i for one lol'ed. no harm in asking but credit due, that was pretty funny

more likely just some words. gtr not gtst.

I suggest - buy ebay adjustable cam gear, the type with the steel outer gear not aluminium, install on exhaust cam. Adjust to stock position, see if it runs better or worser. Move back to 1 degree out if needed, or tune further to get max power. Problem solved for $80-90 and tuneability of engine increased.

Well the cage would only brace to the firewall, these are effectively on the other side of it so would be bracing a different area.

I made up some front under-fender braces; ugly as sh"t but who cares, you never see them, and combined with using a one-piece Ultra Racing strut brace rather than the bolted-together type, the front feels wayyyyy more solid on the road at highway speeds...not something you feel just driving around but once you get a bit of speed up, very worthwhile.

probably the carbys...or afm is the next thing I would look at...following the air fuel spark rule.

N/a??? Wtf?

+1 they do sound sweet....find it makes the rb25 sound more like it should, nice 'tuned' note to it.

I plan on having one later, don't worry.

thanks Trent, yep spoke to him, helpful fella that Ray.

It doesn't even float dick head. Have you looked at a boat, they are heaps different. farkin LOOOL on the other hand jeezuz that's bad. What about orange juice? that sh&t is delicious. anyone ever tells me it's a boat I say "it's not a boat it's a yacht"....and enjoy the confused look on their faces.

You wiuld need to change rack ends to one longer one shorter. The rack mounts are going to be your bigger problem, they are cast into the rack itself.

didn't find too much info or any thread on these. Anyone else using or have experience with Gizzmo's k-lite knock sensor/light? I've had mine on abut a week and it's calibrated and seems to work fine, picked up medium-level knock on a full-throttle hill climb that seemed about bang on the money. One thing to query if anyone else has experience with them, is it seems it runs through the engine analysis around every 2 minutes which gets pretty annoying for daily driving...those led's are pretty damn bright....once set I would have thought it would just keep that setting and only light up for knock detected but doesn't seem to be the case, and then instructions and info supplied are very basic, doesn't go into detail if this is normal operation..

Yes that plug for cold start, buried right under intake mani.