hardsteppa

The bar? What kind of bar? Concrete reo or a full chubby? the metal holders would come with the car, if the car came with the bar in the first place. Otherwise, why would it...

Sell it for an n/a r34Wait what does he have again?

The clutch/ flywheel is a complete matched assembly, wont match to stock.

Turbo??? I assumed it was supercharged.

Use the ring end of a spanner bigger than the ID of the piston, say 19mm? Lever it carefully against the rotor with the ring end resting inside the piston and will push it in without issue, i have found.

i'm very interested in it...and by that I mean, semi-interested. Is it any brand-name, or your everyday generic chinese? Is it specific for any car? Has it been used? Is it unused? How long are the hoses? Is that just an adapter or is it a thermostat controlled type? Seriously...cause I was looking at getting one, not urgently, but if yours is well priced and what I'm after...?

that's for r32. Different hicas setup (hydraulic).

yep, or 'RoadSafe' tie rod ends from Bursons and Repco, they have a part no listed for your car.

*setS

can't argue with Boiler Room....you can download a lot of set from their website too.

Run no exhaust, just side pipe. Best all round solution and user friendly as a daily driver.

that's proving the point...not hard at all to find that information, as you say... also as Nizmo Man says, depends on what OP wants from said car, suspension upgrades can be a hell of a lot more worthwhile than doing power stuff and leaving handling shite.

Baptism of fire son, baptism of fire. But that's the way, don't take no shit lol. Anyway, there's heaps of info on here about starting mods; have a good read, make a budget and list of what you're looking at doing then come back with it and ask. You're getting smartass replies cos ppl can't be fkt answering the same q's that have the answers easily available; best to do your own research then ask more specific q's.

They come out with a few taps of a sledgehammer, after you have removed the circlip of course. Its pressing them in thats trickier, as you need a proper press, the one pictured is unlikely to cut it, and a jig made up for the job. Which i have, but am north brisbane. Happy to do it next weekend if u like?

if you take the viewpoint "it's unsafe to speed" ('speeding' being over the often inappropriate limit posted by Govmnt)then the opposite to that would be, to go under the speed limit is 'safe'...which is blatantly untrue, being dependent on so many variables, eg driver concentration...do they then lapse into slumber mode or are they more worried about changing the radio station that paying attention to the road, etc.

now this, this is quality posting.

wait, you can mod skylines?? why has no-one ever posted about this or made a guide about basic upgrades???? now THATS sarcasm. hey, you do say "Any comments at all." so input is valid, no returns accepted.

Is the answer not in the name..?

If it doesn't, i don't know what will lol. Nice find.

Not sure i understand the issue. The bigger the hole the harder the pump would have to work to maintain pressure so any bigger than needed would not be good. If the pump volume changes at set intervals, eg set rpm or throttle position, the tune would accommodate this?

yes..I found this pretty straightforward too, the only thing I will say is the thread for the nut has a groove cut into it, that you deform the lip of the new nut, once tightened, to sit into and not come undone, and this thread can become deformed quite easily (don't ask me how I know...) so only use a puller, don't love-tap the end of the shaft or anything trying to get it loose from the old bearing, as the thread may easily deform and then you're in for a world of sh&t lol..

so, I replaced the passenger side bearings on the weekend as I would get a bit of a 'knock' feel over some bumps, like a worn balljoint, and a slight wander feel on passenger side, on occasion. Can't feel either now after replacing the bearings. This won't be much of a writeup as most of what you need to know is already here http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423348-kingpintrunion-bearing-replacement-hcr32/?hl=%2Bkingpin+%2Bbearing#entry6829945 my main concerns were what would be needed to separate the upper and lower halves of the upright after undoing the kingpin nut - and in my case it was nothing, they literally pulled apart once the nut was removed, the lower half falling away just from the weight of the control arm etc - and how to press the bearings out and back in. I already have a 10-tonne press ($187 delivered off ebay son, well worth it, have used it for heaps that I would have otherwise had to pay a workshop to do) so this wasn't a big deal, the bearings are pressed in but not that tight, they came out and went in easily. For the top bearing, I cut a piece of pipe about 25mm long that matched the diameter of the upright; a big enough diameter to clear the bearing and run around the face of the upright. This is so when you invert the arm and press the bearing out, the arm is supported and it leaves room for the bearing to just push out inside the 25mm pipe. I used as big a socket that would fit through the opening of the larger lower bearing (think it was 20mm?) with a small extension bar on the socket for the press to push onto. That bearing came out in one piece, no drama. I then turned the arm the other way round and put the section of pipe underneath, and went to press out the lower bearing, which only pressed out the inner race and left the outer shell stuck in the upright. Not unexpected, and I just put the arm in the vice and used a long cold chisel (long screwdriver would do fine) to give the shell a few taps to pop it out from the upright. Then just clean it all up leaving it nice n spotless for the new bearings and dust seal (kit available from Kudos Motorsports) then very easy to spray a bit of silicone lube into the arm to slide the new bearings in nice n easy on the press. Once the new bearings were in, I used the old bearings to sit them on to and press the new bearings in that little bit further as of course they exactly match the outline of the new ones, and both bearings need to sit slightly below surface for the lower dust seal to then be pressed in, and the upper cap to be fitted once all back on the car and assembled. It really was one of the easier jobs that I've done for a while and had allowed more time than it needed, as with a press and a few drifts handy to press the old bearings out and new ones in, they all went in and out without fuss. A few pics, but unfortunately didn't take any during the 'press' part of the procedure; it was pretty straightforward though. View of kingpin after upright removed upright with upper bearing out upright with lower bearing out lower bearing, with new dust seal fitted

well....if you get the right support on the arm and it starts to press out easily, it's MUCH quicker than doing the 3-stage cutting method, but sometimes that way is needed, certainly was in my case, but I did it with the knuckle on the car, and it was a PITA. PUll it off, give it a complete overhaul in one step.

+1. if I was doing it again I would just pull off rear knuckle and press them out. And poly for road car IMO.

is this the blue one that's in your avatar pic?