hardsteppa

Bulshit, uglyass r32's are least desireable....but still expensive.

Lol i didnt even get 10,000ks out of last 2 sets of street tyres

Make sure you turn engine off before trying to cut it.

Are these numbers all phoney?? Get it? Phone-y? Ahhh never mind

after driving the mountain again today, as well as it being still damp in some sections, I further recommend the re003's. No issues with them at all today, very good in cornering, braking, wet weather. And this is impartial as I was prepared to not rate them at all in the initial 300k's. Will be interested now to see if there's much performance drop-off as they wear and what sort of life I will get out of them.

They are done up very tight. Because if they come loose there is a fair chance you will crash and die. So need quite a bit of force to undo. Hope that helps.

for me, Castrol edge seemed to hold temp and oil pressure better, I noticed oil temp went up when I switched to the penrite 10-tenths. Will likely go back to the Castrol at next oil change, but would use penrite again if needed, and it is widely available.

more likely your mechanic might have just not plugged it back in, if it just stalls as soon as it isn't a stable idle reading.

wrong forum dude, try forced induction. not as widely-used a boost controller as the greddy profec but if the settings are anything similar (which they may well not be), make the duty cycle (which is probably called 'set', to whatever needed to reach your desired boost - generally a percentage of stock wstegate pressure, eg 20% on a 10psi wastegate should make 12 psi). Then increase gain to make it stable across rpm range and not spike or fall off at upper rpms, then 'p gain' might be same a 'start gain' setting, eg holding w/g closed to speed up spool, so st this as high s possible without causing a boost spike when it comes on boost. etc.

worst introduction post ever. There's a reason there's a post minimum before you can post in the 'for sale' forum. oh and welcome, have a good time here.

300v is awesome, made my car noticeably faster. No joke. Not wallet friendly though. I used to use 4100 religiously and it's a good oil but yes, you can get equal/better oils for same price and it pissed me off that it was so hard to find, so ended up switching oils to something most stores stock.

yeah mate your problem is air-related. AFM most likely or something that is upsetting afr. Use consult or ecutalk and check all readings are in spec, and check afr's with a wideband. If you don't have access to those, well, might be hard to pinpoint your issue.

Yeah man i know a guy that had this problem with his r33 too.

Just replace the broken clip...or keep using it, depending on what part of clip broken.

Exactly, put back in. Should be able to convert to 1.5 or 1 way, hard to see from thise pics.

But get it retuned if u fit new turbo.

S2 have the coilpack and ignitor both built into the plastic casing.

If JEM retunes it.

Yeah but you should get it retuned

trash or treasure, a bargain or an insult to your wallet? you decide. All parts for R33 gtst. Subframe collars - have 2 sets, one aluminium solid type, the other Superpro urethane (seem to be missing 1 ring, as soon as I find the other one in my garage, will sell as a full set). Marks etc as pictured, both still in good order and very serviceable (aluminium ones hardly used, superpro ones have about 3 -4 years on them) $25 a set. Superpro steering rack bushes, about the same amount of use 3-4 years, still in very good order. $20. Genuine Nissan tailshaft centre bearing. This is effectively brand new, but - fitted this bearing, only to find an issue with the tailshaft itself, so had to swap tailshafts. As this was brand new and they cost $160+ I pulled it off and in trying to do so without damaging the rubber casing, one centre flange got bent up as pictured. If you straighten this out so it doesn't rub, it will be as good as new, but, price reflects this damage. $50 neg. Which leads me to - 1x tailshaft flange and front section, both still in good working order, issue was with rear section. These might be handy if making a custom tailshaft...? $20 neg anyway. 1x R33 actuator, $10. pickup on Brisbane northside or can post anywhere in Oz (tailshaft excepted).

you could have, or could have blown a bearing or seal...did you? Is it making the right boost at a stable level, is it making any noise, is it blowing any smoke? If the answer is to be no to those questions 3, then, i'm sure it's fine. That's not a lot of boost anyway; 25+, now that would be a cause 4 concern.

Street car? Remsa pads, fkn awesome and cheap as broooo.

wait, you had crap brakes that you yourself say won't work in an emergency situation and you've driven it around this way for a month? give a fk for the safety of other road users much??? I really hope I've misunderstood what you posted. And I would suggest, look elsewhere rather than bleeding the brake system again. Stuck rear calipers as Ben said, or check booster is working properly.

forklift gas-engine. or, bike pedals and a long chain. not sure but I thought I saw a thread about this once before that had some information on it.

Gk tech do, or did, a 10mm slipon hubcentric..i know, i have some lol. Have widened guards a little on rear but have a cpl different sizes of hubc spacers to get the 'right' fit, works well