hardsteppa

this is why I rate hypergear, very happy with their hiflow i'm currently running. Plenty of good turbos around, but tailored specifically to rb's , well...worth supporting someone that puts so much R&D into a specific application.

I think the idea of it is extremely cool, but would like them to make an 'ardcore version of the game with ghosts/demons/etc....rather than pokemon characters. So basically when you're close some horrific ghouls will come at you bro and scare the shit out of you. This is based on my 45 seconds of seeing it in operation on a friend's phone..

got the new version of RSR's last week, the Federal RSRR. Godamnn they're seriously the noisiest tyre I've ever used, sounds like worn wheel bearings lol, but - wow what a great value tyre at $180 fitted and balanced for a 255/40/17. Mountain drive on the weekend and great grip on them, not even a hint of slip, if they're anything like the rsr's they won't last long but at that price, still great value for the performance given. PS the re003's are still bloody average. Go invo's instead in similar price range.

true, but teach a man to fish, etc.

I found the 2nd post far more useful. Intersting that the information for both posts can be found by using google. Although a dyno may be needed for the first post to say exactly.

hey simmer down now sex kitten....they do this in the same way that everyone likes to point out, when you lean them out (by moving the signal lower down the load band) it can, but may not always, add in extra/excessive timing....and moving the signal up the load band in the same rpm scale to add more fuel by way of increased airflow signal can, but may not always, pull some timing out. I would not consider them a suitable choice to 'tune' with but would consider them suitable to adjust a tune with.,,,if you get what I mean - basically don't ask them to do too much. I have found the main issue to be that with only hi and lo throttle adjustments the correction range is too broad, would be much better if there was a midrange throttle adjustment. But they aren't *shit*, just limited in their use. If OP is not in a position to buy a standalone as they say and already has an safc, then make the most of it.

that one looks fake. This one is legit - blue gasket, and genuine seller, just cheap. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/APEXi-Dual-Funnel-Power-Intake-Replacement-Filter-85mm-UNIVERSAL-500-A021-/272279905575?hash=item3f6525a527:g:YA8AAOSwzJ5XZ6cq

''played with one'', is not the same as taking the time to use them to their best effect. ie, who says you only use them for leaning out, mine adds fuel/pulls timing in top end due to boost increase.

And post up your safc settings...they can do interesting things.

Well i have found a tiny amount of looseness in a swaybar link nut will make a hell of a racket so maybe is just it "slipping" when under load?

Do you have stock brake dust shields in place?

The truth?! You want the truth??!? You can't handle the truth!!!! Truth is bell mouth dumps are better, split ones cause issues and don't flow as well.

You must have read his post differently to me; i didn't see any mention of "should i do a manual conversion"

you put a spanner on the smaller section of the rod there (13mm) and undo the large nut (21, 22?mm) then just unscrew the thread from the end once the nut is loose. That end that screws into the lock bar is really massacred, wtf happened there. The gktech lock bar is a good unit made from chromoly, if yours is now stuffed (be careful if it was a cheap unit, might have the wrong thread fitting hence your fkd rod ends) and for the rear, an aftermarket end like roadsafe should suffice, although oem Nissan should see you right for 15+years.

fair enough, yes that is a different kettle o fish...but make up a bracket, stick a p-clamp on it ( I use a pretty loose fit, just enough to guide it not hold tight on it) and loop it around like the factory bracket does.

shit man. There's a stud already right there from where the factory brake line bolts on. Get a p-clamp, make a bracket up, you got to get that shit out of the way of the swaybar for sure, not surprised he failed it.

or to put 'any issues' into risk management terms ; what's the likelihood of a risk occurring and the severity of the risk should it occur.

^^ my experience with that product differed. Might be capable of holding more boost but the size of the valve is much smaller, doesn't blow-off (whole point of it being there in the first place) anywhere near as well as stock. Experienced by turbo dose at exactly same boost level - 12psi-ish- where the stock one would vent just fine at.

thanks for the inputs, appreciated. The thing is, as mentioned, the bearings are cheap-as - I got a set of Nissan/NDC bearings for $49 delivered. I wouldn't even drain the oil, pull off the sump and pull apart the rods, clean the sump and put it all back together only to have to do it all again, for $49; I'd rather just spend that and have them ready to go in the first time rather than doing it twice and costing more in my time and parts...and if I already have them, and they will fit just fine in a stock/unmachined crank as I queried above, then I might as well just put them in the first time while I have it apart. So that really leads back to the original post; not 'is it worth putting in new ones', because if I'm pulling it apart to check current condition then it's definitely worth it...just more, are there are any issues in putting stock bearing sizes in, matched to numbers stamped on the crank, without any refinishing/crank polishing etc.

hey team picked up a spare RB25 short block and looking at a project rebuild, but in the meantime I have concerns about minor conrod bearing damage in the rb25 currently in the car. As a set of bearings is cheap-as, and from research done so far, provided there's no damage to the crank, no machining is needed to replace with new bearings (only 2 sizes according to workshop manual, with most sizes being standard 0?). So to get what I can out of the current motor I'm thinking, drop the sump and replace the conrod bearings with the engine still in the car. Any words of warning or potential issues in doing this? Obviously won't be able to check clearances but as above from what I can gather as long as using the same size stock bearing, with no damage or machining being done this shouldn't be an issue?

Yep 296 or 310..one or the other.

Thats interesting - cause i was looking at a set of the Tomei type A for rb25. So no good then?

I agree..croissants are delicious.

in my discussion with MCA yes, he said runs stock/soft swaybars and did not seem keen on using a stiffer swaybar in most applications. While I also have stiffer and adjustable swaybars myself, I prefer a stiffer spring to control the majority of body roll - in fact recently had first a front swaybar link, then a swaybar bracket break, and the subsequent loss of working front swaybar has only mildly affected the handling, and mostly in a stability sense rather than any affect on controlling body roll. To some degree I find left and right being able to operate independently of each other rather than being linked by the swaybar to be better, although not to the extent I will not be linking it up again. Overall though when I first fitted stiffer swaybars on stock springs the handling improved but not to the same extent as moving to a stiffer spring, and of the choice between the 2 I'd say stiffer spring (relevant to the given application) is far more beneficial any day, with the ideal result being the right balance of both of course.

So we're agreed. Fat Al is a cnt.