hardsteppa

did this get sorted? cos just saw these Rough Tempo badboys https://www.hfm.parts/shop/clearance/gk-tech-silicone-hose-reducer-straight-pipe-joiner-70mm-63mm/

trans is still going well Trex; my power levels are pretty pisswe@k, prob under or on 200rwkw. Valve body kit transformed car though. Have thought about going manual but for daily driving will be a PITA, this is much more traffic friendly than my last car with OS Gayken twinplate ...although it was an awesome clutch.

Uh oh...

Yes, was afm needed cleaning. As far as ignition timing goes, gtsboy is correct again lol. Timing is supposed to be erratic but having idle set right without idle control on, makes it less so.

rsr's were fine but yes the newer rsrr are noisy as anything, at over 70k. Car noise is no issue for me but of course, might be a factor for some.

they are good hey. Have them on the front at the moment in the same size as you, and will do them on the rear too as soon as current tyres wear out. For me to date though, the ultimate performance street tyre is still the RSRR. Just bloody awesome. Quick wearing but also relatively 'dirt cheap' on the performance scale. I imagine the ad08 might be better still but more $$, and not used them myself. I also hear great things about these; only thing the tyre shop pointed out, is they're not made for' performance' driving, eg not made with large shoulder blocks...so apparently will be good but just wear fairly quickly if pushed.

welcome to Aus mate, very nice car it does look mint

I read good reviews on them too, but - all comes back to what sort of driving you will do. They are still a 'street' tyre so don't have the larger side blocks like RS3's do so won't last too long if used for mountain roads, track etc...although i'm sure will grip like sh&t for everyday commuting.

if you're serious about doing any track time then another set of rims/wheels will be needed. Great for track ain't great for street. Or as above, AD08R, but won't last long on street so cheaper to hav a 2nd set, in the long run.

an $85 transgo shift kit can be made to give similar results.

I don't believe you'd 'rebuild' the BC inserts...for the price anyway you'd just buy a new shock insert, if that was found to be the faulty component. Although a few other things on BC's that can knock too, not just the shockereeo....o. Is it definitely the shocktwizzle? And what's the camber query...

This...this is what you want. With extractors (merging back into the stock exhaust of course) on the 3sfe 4 banger and a slushbox. Rocket or deathtrap, you decide.

89 beige n/a camry with extractors on it.

Don't know about the other rotor, only got as far as passenger side. Torque was even across all though, and done at least 5 times with similar/same result each time.

thanks dude, will see how we go. While the first reply from K Sport was a bit 'brush off' they did reply quickly so will see how this develops, before passing any harsh judgement. Something along the lines of, mistakes happen, it's how you deal with them that matters..

thanks Duncan. I've never read anything to indicate any R33 gtst had anything other than 12mm mounting bolts, with 14mm appearing on r34's, with the bigger discs. the 12mm bolt would fit in the 14 mm hole but would be sloppy, and adapters can be made but why bother if I don't need to, and Ksport do make a r33/12mm caliper adapter? Plus a lot more stuffing round taking off hub, putting on drill press to make sure hole is drilled square, etc. Hose has a banjo fitting at caliper end but a concave fitting at the end where it fits to the factory hard line, and the stock line has a raised/convex fitting rather than concave. For the runout, the hub is spotless and has about 0.02mm runout. I have fitted the ksport disc to all 5 different positions on the hub and I get the same runout figures in every location I'm open to further suggestions on what to check but can't see any issue with the hub and the fact the dial indicator readings are consistent on the disc, has me thinking that it is runout on the disc. Didn't get as far as the driver's side to check its runout, due to the caliper adapters not fitting anyway.

And just seen the brake hoses have the wrong end fitting on them. They included an adapter...which has the same wrong type of fitting on it

I could but that would be more stuffing about than i was hoping to do. If that's what the kit is -m14 bolts, then so be it, just have never read or heard this being mentioned before.

R33 K-sport brake kit fitment yo...picked up a K Sport front kit, 8 pot calipers and the 330mm discs. Like the other thread on here, i had some issue with runout being 0.24mm, way over the 0.10 max. But a bigger issue was, the caliper adapters use an M14 bolt to bolt the adapter to the hub, rather than the stock M12. KSport have replied quickly, telling me I need to drill out the hub mounts to 14mm - i know plenty of people on here using this kit but never had anyone mention this before; is this right or have i been sent R34 adapters? Not keen on drilling out the hub mounts as it means i won't ever be able to go back to stock calipers again if needed.

lol...if there's one thing I've learned, and there is....modifying, unless you're mega-cashed, is a slow and expensive process...and that's STILL the cheap way above..

lol!! but hey they have paddle shifters on the steering wheel man...paddle shifters!!! but yeah as a auto-skyline driver myself, OP here's what you should do. Don't research any more, don't listen to anyone else, just take my words as gospel. Get a hypergear hiflow turbo. If you hit R&R/fuel cut then, an SAFC neo or nistune, to avoid this pain. Get a shift kit to make the most of your tiptronic. Get a cheap return flow FMIC, eg Cooling Pro from justjap. Get an electronic boost controller, not some gizmo ebay shit that you can't figure out wtf is happening with it or the buttons are so sketchy you can't even set the damn thing. I suggest greddy profec b. Spend the rest on a brake upgrade, some chassis stiffening, and every suspension arm/upgrade available. From there if you decide to chase serious power and spend $$ on the car, then you haven't spent toooo much on power upgrades you're now going to supersede, and still have a sorted chassis/suspension setup.

Do you have a nissan wokshop manual? The pistons have the grades stamped on the top. Been a while but there's i think 4 sizes for the diameter, and i think sizes for the pins too, and then a few sizes for conrod to match the piston. The codes and grades are explained in the workshop manual.

What grade do you need? They have several different standard sizes, and then variants of those sizes.

yeah this sort of thing negro, sure I have seen them cheaper though in recent times and nothing wrong with a lot of chinese hoses http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SFS-Silicone-Breather-Hose-Kit-to-fit-Nissan-Skyline-R33-GTS-RB25DET-BLUE-/272100598956

You will likely pull this off fairly often to work on car though so if its a PITA to get on, it will be alot. Mine is from a kit, not by samco but similar who i cant recall right now. Pretty cheap for a kit on ebay?