hardsteppa

You dont work at a tyre shop by any chance do you?

the pin/hinge type strut braces - there is friction there (with mounting bolts being tightened) so not like they're free to just pivot freely. However I don't like them cos you're wanting to add stiffness but yet add flex-points into the brace? A one-piece item is a much better option. As for a-pillars, yes noticed a much more solid feel to the car at higher speeds with this although also fitted a 1-piece strut brace on the front at the same time. I would imagine most benefit came from the a-pillar braces though.

little bit, not heaps, but likely to make car run worse as will leak air. The hose and fitting surround where it goes into crankcase cover are both rubber and go hard in about 10 months lol...So if you move it, likely it will split and need replacing.

Ss above..60mm is what i was going to say.

hi mate, what car did you put this on? I fitted one to an R33 gtst and it just wouldn't work, constantly kept recalibrating itself. Gizzmo sent me a new knock sensor, new unit, new loom, confirmed my wiring with them as all good, and still had same issue, ended up having to pull it out. Pity, cos would have been a very handy feature. Although to note i now used a Turbo xs one which has been flawless.

product review - adjustable rear lower control arms I'd been looking at the no-name chinese made adjustable lower control arms for the R33 gtst (ikeya ripoffs by the look of it) and haven't seen a lot of info out there about these so, when I saw a set fairly cheap through Tas Autosport (Great seller, Hamish is great to deal with and very well priced) I grabbed a set to see what they're like. First thought was, Christ they're heavy but weighing them up they came in just on 3kg and the stock arms were 2.54kg so not THAT much heavier, and they're wayyyyy more solid. The finish was good, welds look decent enough. Outer end looks to be a forged piece? Inner bearings have a rubber cover but outer ones (spherical bearing rather than ball joint) don't, although neither do the top-brand ones that I could see. These will be on a road car so grabbed a set of rubber boots from repco to fit over them rather than leaving them exposed. Fitting them to the car, the inner bearings are too short (around 5mm) to fit snugly inside the subframe mounts so you will need a few washers to put at each end to make up the distance. Not a big deal but make sure you have some handy when fitting. Otherwise they fitted just fine, and the swaybar mounts are in a better position if you're using an adjustable swaybar as I am, with the stock arm mounting points not quite lining up properly. Will update after doing some real driving on them but initial thoughts after a quick drive; as you'd expect from such a solid piece compared to stock there's a real firm and direct feel when weight's transferred to the wheel when cornering...although I've found words don't really cover the feel of the car, it is just that, a feel you have to drive it to appreciate. These were $220ish delivered, and on the stock arms I'd replaced the ball joint and fitted superpro inner bushes so would have been close to this price already. I'm assuming the weak point of these will be the bearings (outer ones are easily replaceable, held in with a c-clip) so will see how they go over time and after some more extensive driving. The open design also makes it a lot easier to work on (refitting swaybar links were a breeze).

ok so finished the latest brace; this runs crosswise under the car at the end of the transmission tunnel. Replaces the piddly brace(?) thing that's standard on r33 gtst's, and mounts there and also at each end in 2 places. I feel I've kept an open mind trying to avoid any bias or placebo effect but goddamn....rear end feel like it's glued to the road now, it's seriously planted. It's made in 2 pieces to fit under the tailshaft and over the exhaust, and bolts together to form one piece when fitted. Just needs 1 8mm hole drilled next to the stud that's already there to make a total of 4 mounting points in the middle, other than that it bolts to existing factory points, total of 6 mounting points across the car.

Black wire is likely to be earth...

And invo's take dumps all over re003's

Agreed. Unless they wear badly, so far i found rs3's corner way better than re003 in the dry. Although re003 handle wet weather quite well, to their credit.

so what is reasonable? with Shannons here and pay about 700 per year for ' market value' (currently around 10,500) comprehensive on a modded R33..Old driver, no claims. Only thing that concerns me is I don't have salvage rights...which would be the real value if the car was ever a write off.

no, looks exactly like a nylon wheel, especially where it's broken. Could have been something hitting it or could just be fatigue and breaking apart; they're old now and not the most durable part to begin with.

from what I've seen since I started looking at brace designs, large areas of the car seem to just be pressed/shaped sheet metal. So nothing in them really to stop twist once any kind of load is put into the chassis. So putting a brace with very little flex from one solid point to another across the car then creates a bridge anchoring the 2 points rather than it just being the thin sheet metal. It won't make it 'immovable' like a 3d-rollcage structure would but does do a lot to reducing the bendiness overall. The R33 (and prob 32's and 34's) have a ladder-type brace/boxed section running across the floorpan going across at the front of the front seats which stops at the transmission tunnel. I made a small brace that goes underneath the car and joins these 2 sections crosswise across the car (also creating a square-boxed section at this point of the trans tunnel) as well as spot-welded the crosswise box sections along their length and this small mod made a noticeable difference to the flex feel of the front half of the car when cornering, holding the car much flatter.

the latest product from A-Type performance industries. Best thing is it just bolts into existing mounting points and weighs 180 grams more than the stock 2-point flexi-piece. This one here is just finishing completion - runs across the back of the car underneathat the end of the transmission tunnel, similar to the standard item on the later r33 and r34 gtr's, but with extra mounting points and much stiffer. Once again, no mods needed as bolts to existing mounting points. Small piece weighs bang on 1 kg and larger piece 1.76 kg.

Running real rich as you say, for one thing.

bonjour in an r33 there is only 1 fuel damper in the engine bay, which is better left in place than removed. Charcoal canister or not.

Tanya?? yes first post, sounds legit. No wait....what's the complete opposite of legit? that's what i meant.

i don't think it's a good idea, cause even though more flow thru the double-thickness cooler, it's still a very short travel so less residence time inside the cooler meaning less time for heat transfer...aka, still won't cool that well. However if it's just a project and not costing you anything/much, just time, then certainly can't hurt and will be better than the stock single core.

so i see Hankook Rs-3's seem to be back in good supply in Oz....checking their specs though they are only 'Traction A" rated, not AA? bit weird for a performance-marketed tyre?

are they true hubcentric though? bit bloody dangerizzle otherwise.

6mm is pretty thin. don't know it would even cover the hub lip thickness?

Wasnt it something about the seals/pistons being pissweak and not up to any performance use? tho i might be thinking of another caliper.

i used a gtech hicas bar...big weight saving, but can't tell the difference between having it and not...then again i don't track the car.

get one of those borescope cameras off ebay for $12, do a before and after view.

when i had the head off recently replacing head gasket, i used the liqi-moly carbon cleaner to get rid of the carbon buildup on top of the pistons (rb25det). It worked well, in that it really dissolved it, but even then some small spots took heaps, letting it sit, and then some scrubbing to get them removed completely. Pistons looked great afterwards though. So not sure how much carbon these products would remove if just sprayed into the intake, doesn't seem they would remove the really caked on stuff...and don't know how long it would take before it builds up again?