Marlin

Mine is quicker on absolutely flogged bald and blue heat stroked Dunlop O3G's than on Kuhmo KU36's in the exact same size.

x100, sorry to see. I saw the car running on saturday when I was down toward the end, and my oh my, she looked the goods I guess you an at least be thankful you managed to keep the front end off the wall, would have been a total disaster if she copped that hit in the nose!

Mine with genuine C-West kit. (Bonnet is a Border).

Understood mate. If it really is obtaining more throttle than the V-box indicates then I could understand, but, I'd be looking to ensure it's not in Limp, they revert to RWD if so. Edit; To qualify, I know you know, not being a smarty.

I have to ask, with such small throttle openings and miniscule traction, was the 4WD working? Because that really doesn't appear normal.

I get all misty in the duds looking at this engine Baron.... farkin BUMP!

Well, it depends on the application, whether you want remote resevoir etc (rally/endurance racing mainly), but budget between 3.5 to 7k and you're fairly safe.

Murray's stuff is good value in the grand scheme, and IMO you're better of slashing laptime via great handling versus more horsepower, it just makes more sense. Having said that, I use a set of Apexi N1 shocks in mine, but one day, oonnnnne day, I'll get some MCA

Totally concurr with speaking with Murray.

Lol at lots of things in here, but especially how far off topic this got.

IMO, gtst don't typically rev as hard, 7 v 8 plus, so a litre overfull is typically enough

Lo, finally someone gets it

And Brighty, your car is beautifully prepared and pretty much no expence spared. It's gorgeous! I might sound sour, but I have just so much GTR heartbreak in my past. I honestly used to go to every track meeting expecting to break a $10k engine. Since going GTS-t, I'm a much more relaxed man. 2.5 years and 12,000 race kilometres on a factory sealed bottom end without so much as an oil cooler, my GTS-t finally needs a new set of big ends. Took me an hour to pull the donk and box last night, drunk.

Yep! And all of these above points is why I steer clear of racing GTR's. While they're a great road car (Had/have a couple), they need too much modification to be reliable on the track, and if they are made track reliable, the road driving suffers. Its a viscous circle. Therefore I go back to my siuation for a mere financial mortal, learned from experience. Nice GTR for the road, nice GTS-t for the track that smacks most GTR's. And the all up spend I venture to say would be less than the outlay for just a track prepped GTR.

The Starion from Cannonball Run (remember the young Jackie Chan in the back pressing buttons? lol "Turbo Boost" was wicked!)

Fun Fact; Nissan Austrlaia claimed 205KW for the GTR, not 206KW as per Japan.

All true mate. I was just highlighting an overlooked fact that sometimes the basics of the system need to be working properly before a controller is usefull. The Ruzic controllers work wonders on powered up cars, no doubt.

Also, the Torque gauge on the dash is nothing to do with the actual pressure being delivered to transfer clutch plates. The gauge runs off the ATTESSA computer input, and is what the computer would LIKE to have sent to the front, but if there's a blockage, it will only get a fraction of the required pressure, and/or be much slower to react.

Well, the system needs to be cleaned, so the best method is to remove the pipework post high pressure pump and find the remains of the filter, typically at a restriction point between the pump and transfer. Compressed air blown in the reverse direction will dislodge it but you must NOT just blow the blockage backwards up the system (yes, this is obvious I know ) The filters can be purchased new, but we just leave them out, not as if you're going to put dirty oil in there

Its also worth remembering the paper filter that sits in the bottom of the ATTESSA canister in the boot falls to bits, is pumped up to the end of the pressure line, and is compressed into virtually a "clog". The filter was an item that was meant to be replaced at service intervals, but most never were, out of site, out of mind. The ATTESSA still works, but is slower due to this very dense restriction. Everyone spends bucks and goes chasing worn clutches, or uses controllers, to get around what is, nine times from ten, a blockage. The poor old 32 system gets a bad wrap for being slow, but it really wasn't when they were new. Most just need a good clean out.

Roy, just for interest sake, I pulled the engine out of mine last night after I boiled the oil at Lakeside and did a big end, and she looks pretty good! #4 big end looks to have failed, giving enough bearing play to break the piston oil squirter off. Crank/rods look good as gold. Compression is a little jumbled though, with mins and maxs differing about 15% instead of the 10% that I normally abide by. Gonna give her a full birthday though, just wish the rules would allow some more freedoms to run one of your turbs!

Yep, 'twas me mate. The Emo drivers asked me to leave, their pretend cars were getting scared

A lil birdy told me it sold yesterday.

Well, talking to Steve Glenney at the Emo Nats over the weekend, we raised the same point. I indicated that I would buy a nine, he said I was mad and the ten is twice the car, it's just not publically known yet. The ten he ran in improved Proddy was over a second a lap quicker than the much more modified nine on the same day, same rubber. He went on to list better torque, larger power "band", much wider track, minimal weight increase.... in his words, "the list goes on, and don't tell anyone". lol

How about an RGM Motorsport R34 GTR?