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hy_rpm

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Everything posted by hy_rpm

  1. hy_rpm
    It should be on the 4th mark also the marks should be evenly spaced so either the pulley might be different or just dirty Also you did go the right way to advance the timing right ? If not timing belt may be one tooth out Try pulling no 1 spark plug out then put a screwdriver in there and turn the engine by hand till it's comes to the top And that will be tdc and see what mark on the pulley corresponds Take of the top timing cover and take a photo of where the cam gears are at and tell you if it's right Note you might have to go one more revoloution of the crank till the cam gear marks are at the top
  2. hy_rpm
    Or another easy way to set it is What ever timing your ecu talk says the timing reading on ecu your crank should be the same or move you cas till it reads the same and you don't have to dissconnect anything or change idle
  3. hy_rpm
    Even though the log says it's running 20degrees Btdc at full torque if the cas is not set right it will be out by that amount So say it's at 5 it will be +10 across the whole map and reason why it's sluggish and low on power meaning it will be at 10 instead at full torque I think rb std is 15Btdc at 750rpm Also don't go thrashing too long with the cas advanced as it might be pinging and you can't hear it but alil pinging won't be harmfull it's only if you are at full song for long periods Best to check it with a timing light It's easy to get it wrong as if the idle is to high when set it will be showing more advance the higher the idle as the ecu uses timing to adjust idle . So if you have nissan data scan you can lock it in timing mode to set base timing or just dissconnect the tps and lower the idle via iacv screw to 650-750rpm and then set cas till 15
  4. hy_rpm
    Just try advancing the cas abit if you don't have a timing light and go for a test drive if it fixes it you found you problem if not just return it back to same spot
  5. hy_rpm
    Have you even checked the base timing? That's the exact same issue I had before and it was base timing out on cas had to have it retuned after setting the cas otherwise it will ping
  6. hy_rpm
    I remember when I first had my car tuned on road and the cas was too retarded so off the mark it would be very doughy but build boost fast . I set the timing after to std 15 as it was 5 and made a massive difference drove and revved much easier Took it to the dyno to see what power it made but it was pinging very badly so they retarded it back to stop it but it drove like before So I took it back to the tuner to fix it end up driving better and made 182rwkw out of the old sr and t28 with smic but it was a remapped std ecu So if you tuning with a std ecu or power FC having the base timing off before tuning will cause issues
  7. hy_rpm
    Stao let us know when your back so you can make me up a custom ss1.5 for my sr Cheers man
  8. hy_rpm
    Sometimes the marks on the crank pulley can be off as the damper between the pulley is worn and cause it to give you false readings but it's always best to get the base timing insync with what the ecu sees So if the ecus saying its at 15 then make sure it's reading 15 at the crank otherwise you whole map will be off by what degree you set it off by
  9. hy_rpm
    Most jap cars are set that way cause the have aftermarket cams or gears when tuned Also it's alway best to set the base timing to factory first before tuning as altering later will affect the whole map
  10. hy_rpm
    He just said it will have poor fuel economy and on part acceleration will be rough but should still make the power up top under wot
  11. hy_rpm
    I had 1200cc which Unigroup flow tested and said the spray pattern was bad but they flowed the right amount so I didn't use them Should have just chucked them in
  12. hy_rpm
    Even if it was to short it won't catch on fire cause no oxygen and fuse would blow for safety
  13. hy_rpm
    Depends where you buy your e85 from I've heard of a few united servos now having bad batches of fuel where the e85 has dissolved everything in the servo tank coming out like rust water blocking pumps and injectors to the point where the car won run Caltex eflex haven't had issues ever Is that what you run micko?
  14. hy_rpm
    Was a awesome day had a few dramas at the start with a cooler pipe blowing apart But after that smoked it up hard Can't wait for the next one
  15. hy_rpm
    Burnout get that off
  16. hy_rpm
    I reckon Aslong as you run a sn rated oil which is compatible with e85 and the right weight for your car any brand is ok Just be sure to change it at no more than 5000km intervals
  17. hy_rpm
    I've been running my dw300 for almost 2 years on eflex and no faults here Was it rewired ?
  18. hy_rpm
    Hasn't got the turbo in yet just bought it
  19. hy_rpm
    Hey have a look at the kando evo 9 turbo with billet comp wheel My brother has bought one to try on his evo 8 and step one cams That is as awesome result Is that still the same cast one you trialed before ? It's ceramic bearing and vnt but std cast compressor
  20. hy_rpm
    Cause it's running only 14-15psi boost See what happens over 20psi
  21. hy_rpm
    There's something definately wrong with the first cylinder Looks like its not firing at all That would explain your cruising hesitation
  22. hy_rpm
    Made payment $125
  23. hy_rpm
    Sweet so ill deposit $125 And I'm eligible for the aasa as is
  24. hy_rpm
    So is it $75+$50 for cams license ? And just want make sure there's still spots
  25. hy_rpm
    Ok I've sent a entry form but want to know how much money I need to deposit as its my first time and I need a day cam license aswell ?
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