ferni

Modded

Yep

Can't see any cracks, those seal marks or whatever they are, are normal

Pics of the insides http://gtr.ferni.net/photos/07%20-%20Gearb...ox%20go%20BANG/

bump, $100ono

I don't belive colour matters, brake/PS fluid can come in different colours What does matter is how much moistuer/water it has in it, if it has moisture in it, it needs flushing

Midnight purple R34, nice, did you get it sprayed that colour or was it done in japan? (or was it limited edition from factory?) free bump

anyone get the kangaroo shot on thier pc? i missed it

Honestly i didn't notice what cars they were, there was more than 1, maybe 2-3? and they didn't pull me over directly, they had a couple of cars pulled over already, like at a booze bus, but there was no booz bus... were just normal cop cars as far as i can remember... so sorry no heads up on what to look out for it was about 9:30pm on wed night...

Just blow those people a kiss, it ticks them off more

heh, just got pulled up then on kellets road in rowville, breath test, license check, and car check 'wheres the blow of valve' me 'its pretty standard, standard blow of valves that aren't venting to atmosphere' him 'trying to find tyre load rating placard in english on this thing' another cop 'looks pretty low' i just kept srugging saying i think its pretty standard (which it is kinda)... he got the wheely thing out rolled it under my car, hits my mufler way to easy, cops like no your about 20-25mm to low, me 'really? i got it raised a month ago about 2 cm if not more since when i bought it, it was to low' cop 'they raise it to legal height?' me 'umm i guess not....' they let me off - i have a pretty clean driving history maybe that helped... was nice to them and car is pretty standard, im thankful for that

Not cheap to convert to turbo, its not just as easy as wacking on a turbo, need to consider ecu, brake upgrade which generally means upgrading to 5 stud hubs, so new wheels too

When at a track day earlier this year, guys were suggesting to put 5psi more than the max rating... so i was running over 40psi i think... not sure if its bad for tyres or not, but everything went fine

Those pics look like a box a guy on these forums made... i was trying to convince him to make me one, but he didn't want to heh If you wanted to do it Fhrx, there was a bit of interest in the other thread - probably 5 or so people...

May be worth listing the condition of the wheels and what tyres and condition of them...

My girlfriend bought a series 2 NA auto R33... excelent condition, for 18k about a year ago.... its a very reliably car, probably about the same speed as say a holden 3.8ltre v6 (VR/VS/VT etc..) so not SLOW but not super quick... Only thing she has spent money on is service every 5-10k 50-100$, petrol, insurance and rego... good idea not going for a turbo car, they cost too much to maintain/mod and insurance is a killer

Mind if i ask how much it set you back?

as everyones said, its a speed cut then, not rev cut

I'm no expert Brutus, but i'd say as much negative camber as you can get on the front (-3ish?), decent amounts on the back (-2 to -2.5ish?) and lots of castor, not sure if toe makes much difference to killing semi-slicks Andrew: Mind if i ask what your wheel alignment settings are when you killed these tyres?

Reading the topic... "why the 1/4 is useless for comparing engine power"... I'd say an engine dyno would be the best tool to compare engine power.... if you were asking whats the best way to compare how much power/fast a car is, then i'd say 1/4 mile strip, MPH is a good way... I went to the drag strip for the first time last sunday... my MPH were pretty consistent considering i was a first timer, started off about 109mph, then think a few runs later was running high 110/low 111mph... until i broke my gearbox farken... i guess it depends on what you are trying to compare... how powerful your ENGINE is... engine dyno sure... i'd probably go with a (normal?) dyno as well over drag... but if you want to compare how powerful your whole car is or how fast it is, then the drag strip.... you're both right maybe just misunderstanding each other?

Yeah was going to say, standard GTR ecu will speed cut at 180ish

I'm after some fine mesh, needs to be a little flexible since i want to put it in my wheel gaurd, fine enough to let air pass through but not let little rocks/stones in

Assuming you have an R33 GTR ... Turn on your ignition (or start the car either way)... withing 10seconds of doing so, hold the OFF button on the climate control for about 5 seconds, or until it turns on... then you can press the red arrow i think it is that will scroll through the different tests.. 20 is good, press red arrow again 30 is good, press red arrow again 4 can't remember, press red arrow again 5 then the demister button shows temp inside/outside etc... have a play. .. there is a pdf somewhere about R32 and 33 skylins that tells you about all this

97r33gtst-typeM: No they won't fit a gtst.. there is a different version for GTST

Better than it being your heater core and that liquid being coolant guess it doesn't matter as long as it gets dry... - leave it in a garage with doors open, airing out overnight.. also there is a product we have here called hippo something, its like a mositure absorber.. absorbs moister out of the air and traps it int he container. may be worth leaving it in your passenger footweel for a few weeks to get any left over moister. costs about 5 bucks from supermarket