iruvyouskyrine

Cheers Tim, Appreciated

Hi all, Was planning on using this on my car but changing my setup a little and no longer require this. It is brand new only taken out of the box to test fit. Has never had water/coolant inside it and is exactly as I received it brand new. I don't have to tell everyone how good the quality of these radiators are. This item will fit any model R32 (Gts, Gts-t, Gts-4, GT-R) Have a receipt here for $550 brand new from Kudos Motorsport. Looking for $450 pretty firm on price. Located Newcastle but will ship. Obviously care will be taken when shipping but once it's out of my hands, it's out of my hands.

Sold pending payment arrival

My bad, $250 negotiable

R34 NIStune ECU and Z32 AFM ECU was sent to Matt @ NISTune to have the board installed, was then returned and went straight into my car. Tuned by Trent @ Chequered tuning in Melbourne and made 312kw @ 20psi with Z32 AFM. I am now in need of a car with MAP sensor functionality so i have outgrown this. It is a very very capable ECU and great if you want to keep your street car mods very discreet, remove the NIStune sticker and the police will never know its modified Z32 was purchased BRAND NEW and only used for maybe 4000km's if lucky. Same reason for upgrade. NISTune ECU $500 Z32 AFM $230 Happy to post at buyers expense, located Newcastle NSW. Contact Josh 0437 one 33701

For sale is an OS Giken push pull clutch converter kit. This allows you to run a push type clutch (far cheaper and more readily available) on a pull type gearbox (late 32 GTR, 33 GTR, 34 GT-T and GTR) It was on my gearbox when i bought it and i wanted to keep with my theme on complete NEO running gear so i decided to run with a pull type setup instead. I never saw this operate but the guy i bought the gearbox from said it worked perfectly. You can see that the throwout bearing has mot certainly been used so i have no reason to doubt him. I really dont know a whole heap about them but there is some info here. http://www.nengun.com/os-giken/pull-to-push-conversion-kit http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-push-pull-movement-conversion-kit.html If you have any questions just ask although i don't think i will be able to answer them. What you see is what you get, it does come with attaching hardware though just not in the picture. Contact Josh on 0437 one 33701

I have for sale a complete RB25 turbo kit, EXCEPT the turbo as weird as it sounds. Includes Intake manifold, exhaust manifold, fuel rail, fuel reg, injectors, throttle body, crossover (aka J-pipe) pipe, front mount intercooler piping, GTR front mount intercooler, metal turbo intake pipe, all silicon joiners, NISTune ECU, Z32 AFM, Z32 plug with wiring, braided turbo oil feed line, water hard lines, turbo oil drain. From my understanding this is LITERALLY EVERYTHING needed to convert your NA to turbo, so will save you a whole lot of hassle from trying to find all the little random parts. Will post but obviously at buyers expense. ECU and Z32 AFM for sale seperately but would like to sell as a complete package. Really not 100% sure what a price on this is but i'll say $1500 which i think is fairly reasonable. Once again PLEASE NOT TURBO IS NOT INCLUDED EVEN THOUGH IT IS SHOWN IN PHOTO, that is the easiest thing to find, they are readily available everywhere. Happy to answer any questions anyone has and provide more pics of each individual item just ask. Contact Josh on 0437 one 33701

Checked continuity of pin 11 on ECU all the way through the ignitor to the positive pin on the number 6 coilpack plug?

This is unbelievably accurate.

Yes, and I know this because I have done it. Thanks champ.

If you keep standard internals its well within the realm of possibility.

V1/V2/V3?

This is very cheap for what it is mate, would grab it if i had space to store it haha Good luck with sale, im sure it won't take long

Of course you bought them! Cannot wait to see them on your car, will look amaze (as usual)

PM'd

After talking to a respectable member on these forums about oil he has said; Stay with a 40 weight, if oil pressure looks low go for a 50 weight. Point being the lowest oil weight to get to the pressure you need. You want to see 10 psi per 1000 rpm so if you see 75 psi hot or even 80 PSI at 7500 rpm your safe. Dont stress about pressure at idle or very low RPM, there is not enough force to break the oil film but you still should have some good pressure. So that gives me a bit of hope. Still using the shitty run in oil so i can go back and switch my good oil for a 50 weight if need be. Will get a mechanical gauge onto is ASAP before i start it next. Thanks for all the info/help simon, been great being able to learn from someone so experianced!

Great to hear mate, i was just thinking about this car yesterday and how it was getting on, one of my favourite builds on SAU. Would love to be able to have as much knowledge as you, please keep updating as things happen And good luck, i think you need it!

Yeah standard RB30E pump shimmed up with 2 washers (3mm) exactly as you suggested. Its a SAAS gauge, and i have no idea if its accurate or not, it worked on my last engine but once again i never knew if it was accurate. Might buy a mechanical guage and see what that reads.

Should mention that i am only using this oil for startup and will be changine it very soon. Will be running Penrite full syn 10-tenths racing 10W-40.

So. Put some shitty Shell 10W-40 that cost me $16 (half price at supercheap) in it and cranked it over a fair bit beforehand to try and get some oil circulation through the engine. Just running on my old map (25, ID 1000cc, 98 ULP, Hypergear SS2) but now using E85 i cranked it over and it fired up first turn of the key! Sat there idling for a little bit and it was missing but after about 30 seconds it sat idling perfectly, but any application of throttle caused it to choke up and almost stall, like there is no AFM connected. Surprised it started on E85 really. During all this i was so excited that it didn't grenade itself on start up that i forgot to look at the oil pressure guage. Started it again and the guage was reading zero. Fck. Took turbo oil feed off and there was plenty of oil coming from there. Wondered if i had hooked the oil pressure sensor up backwards, and sure enough i had! Started it again and i was getting between 55-60 PSI on 10W-40 on cold start/idle, is this value about right? Didnt leave it running long enough to get warm as i want to adjust the tune for E85. Anyway, im stoked that it lives (for now) haha. Will do a compression test soon so i can get a baseline and try and guesstimate my static CR.

I was pretty sure I had the timing sport on with the cam gears and the crank sprocket, but I took everything off and double checked it all and it was all perfect turned it over and everything lined up again. I just want to get the thing started at the moment so I know it's going to run. First engine build so I'm hoping for the best but expecting the worst haha. Will get everything spot on with a piston stop etc once I know it's not going to explode into a million pieces on start up

I used permatex liquid gasket, same thing i used for my thermostat housing and sump etc. I think the issue is i didnt quite use enough of it and without that bolt it isn't quite sealing properly again the block. I'm thinking of just machinig up a bit of tapered alloy and then filling the hole with liquid gasket, and hitting the alloy in for an interference fit. I think that should get it sealing properly. I do have 2x spare RB30 pumps here that i can put on if that doesnt work but ideally i would like to run the neo pump.

Okay, went to put coolant in today and as i was filling it up i noticed that there was water leaking from the water pump. I had a look and thought that i must have just missed putting a bolt in, strange but sometimes you do miss stuff. Went to put a bolt in but it feels like there is no provision in the RB30 block for a bolt to go in. I should note that i am using a standard RB25DET NEO water pump, not the RB30 one. So i started having a look here for info and the RB30 guide says "R33 RB25 water pump have a slightly different bolt up pattern" which i take to mean that this bolt is usually left out. Some more searching led me to a few people who leave this bolt out with no issues at all with water leakage, but i was getting them with just pouring into the radiator!! system was not even under pressure. Some people have said they just tap a thread into the water pump and put a bolt in there and liquid gasket it in, which sounds not too bad to do, but probably not ideal. Just wondering what peoples thoughts are on this, should i pull it off and put a RB30 water pump on? Wanted to run the NEO pump as it is apparently the best water pump for RB as it flows well at high and low RPM and is anti cavitation.

Yes gutting the cat will assist with flames, but it's a terrible reason for getting rid of that cat which is a critical part of the exhaust system. If it is a street car i highly advise leaving the cat alone or replacing it with a high flow metal one. It takes all the nasty chemicals out of the exhaust and traps. Without the cat you will not pass an emissions test if you have to pass one for rego whatever state you are in. If you gut the cat its still pretty easy for a switched on policeman to tell, just stnad behind the car when you rev it and it stinks, whereas nowehre near as much smell with the cat. Getting caught withwout/with a gutted cat is a maximum penalty of $16,000 if i remember correctly. Have fun.

Isn't this why some tuners turn the CAS all the way advanced or retarded and then compensate for it in the ECU? So people can't just spin it willy-nilly and adjust the timing?