iruvyouskyrine

Torque wrench is calibrated fine. Replaced both cam seals. Now leaks substantially less, but still leaks a noticeable amount of oil

Stock rods will be fine. Search for R34_gee_tee_tee or Royce on these forums and have a read up. Plenty of people pushing huger power through Neos with decent reliability.

Because people are lazy and it's easy to tap into the turbo oil return.

Attatched is my completely standard unopened 25 with internal gate SS2 on stock manifold and plenum, 1000cc injectors, Gtr intercooler, 3" exhaust, NISTune and 98PULP tuned on a hub dyno 21psi bleeding to 18.

I understand what you are saying but it requires lots of effort to try and move the clutch fork, and I heard it engage on the fingers of the clutch cover. I will try and have a look but I really think that everything inside the clutch is fine, just a gut feeling. Even though the slave is moving it feels like I have replaced the pedal with a wet fish, that's about how much feel the pedal has.

Yep have done this. It looks like it's moving it a good distance (around an inch) but it still won't disengage. It is a pull type clutch and the equivalent of the throw out bearing engaged properly on the fingers of the clutch cover. Have tried 2x R33 masters now and both have the same issue. Also the shank on the bolt that connects to the clutch pedal on the R32 master is longer than the R33 one. So i put the 32 one on the 33 and tried that hoping it would exert more pressure on the slave, but even this didn't work. Might just have to shell out the $140 for an R34 master

Alright. I tried putting liquid gasket in where it was leaking to see if it would run down the front if it so I could see if it was coming from the cam seal or not. None run down the front but it did come out of between the head and the block just further down the engine where I didn't put liquid gasket. So I'm now almost positive it's not the cam seal. still the cam gears and backing plate coming off tomorrow night for inspection. Am I able/should I also give a standard Nissan headgasket a spray with hylomar? Just for that extra sealing? I'm about ready to set this thing alight if it leaks again.

I know of a set of 4 brand new unused Z221 in (I think if I remember correctly) 275/35/18. Only been test fitted on rims never driven on. Located Newcastle

Yeah I had the cam gears off only 3 days ago and there did not look to be any evidence of oil leaking from the seals. Will inspect before taking the head off though. I agree it's unlikely that it's leaking oil from there, but as I said there is no oil above there or any oil from behind the cam backing plate (that I can see), have cleaned it multiple times and it only seems to be coming from where you can see in the video Yep used arp moly lube in all studs and nuts torqued in correct sequence to ARP specs (80 ft/lb). Used my torque wrench which has hardly been used (done flywheel bolts 3 times and 2 sets of head studs) Only thing with that is my 13mm deep socket just touches the cams when torquing them up. Some of the pressure I am applying would be applied to the cams not the nuts but I don't think it would be too much, it barely touches them.

I replaced the cam seals with brand new Nissan items before I put the engine in. It is very hard to track where the leak is with the cam backing plate on but I am very confident it's not from the cam seal (unfortunately)

Yeah I'm pretty positive that's where it's coming from. Block was removed from a running car with no oil leak issues so thought I would just be able to use Nissan gasket.

Ford territory stockies clear R32 gts-t rear brakes.

It is with great disappointment i have to ask this question. RB25 Neo head on RB30 block. Head was welded for VCT and decked flat. Block was scraped with a razor blade to get everything off and then cleaned using WD40 and brake cleaner to ensure a clean surface. I did not check block straightness at all with a steel rule etc. Using an RB25 Cometic Multi layer metal head gasket and RB25 ARP head studs torqued to ARP specs (80 ft/lb) Oil is weeping from between the head and the block on the passenger side at the very front of the engine. Compression test on cylinder 1 shows 170psi and oil pressure at cold idle is 70psi, using a 10W-40 oil. The oil leaks very slowly but enough to be noticeable as a mark on the ground. Even once then engine has been shut down it will continue to leak for maybe 15 minutes, which i guess it only stops when all the oil has drained from the head. I'm guessing that the block just isn't straight enough to get a good seal with the metal head gasket? I guess my options are take the head off and replace with a standard nissan fibrous gasket, or spray some hylomar (not sure exactly which one to use, the blue spray or the copper?) on the gasket and put it back on? Video attatched below of issue.

Should mention I have a braided line straight from master to Slavs, so no issues there.

I think my issue lies in trying to use a 33 clutch master with 34 pull type slave. No matter what I seem to do adjustment wise it just does not exert enough pressure on the slave to fully disengage the clutch. Anyone successfully used a R33 master and 34 slave? Or can anyone else recommend something that has more pressure (I guess this is related to the bore size?) and still is short like the 33 item as I have a greddy forward facing plenum so need something nice and short. Surely there is plenty of people out there with R33 masters in R32's?

Guessing he wants to go to the drags? Take the rear brakes off. Can fit big tyres and the car is now lighter therefore quicker. Win-win

Big turbo big boost = small gate Big turbo small boost = big gate Small turbo big boost = small gate Small turbo small boost = medium gate That's how I have seen a few people here size gates. *waits for Scotty*

They use Synapse gates

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Hi all. R32 gts-t. R33 Gts-t clutch master cylinder R34 GT-T clutch slave cylinder NPC clutch. Have bled the clutch multiple times but it doesn't seem to get full disengagement. I am unable to change gears very easily when the car is turned off. With the car idling up on jackstands it takes noticeable effort to put the car into gear witch my foot on the clutch fully depressed. When it selects a gear the wheels start turning at the appropriate speed and you can feel that the clutch is not fully disengaged as even pushing against the the gear without selecting it the wheels start to turn. I think this means a dodgy master cylinder correct? I bought a second hand one from an R33 and bled it up, there is definitely movement at the slave as you can see it move the fork maybe an inch or so but not enough to disengage the clutch. Just wanting to confirm it is the master? Thanks

Just send it to Hypergear and ask for it to be rebuilt to standard Nissan specs but with steel wheels and not high flowed.

Mercury Motorsport, home of NITTO and NITTO II, the later which set a new world record for a GTR on radials. Quickest and fastest 7.93 @ 175Mph. Might know a thing or two about tuning an RB. In Brisbane too.

Obviously he knows where to pour it, that's why he's looking for the dipstick, duh!

Straight off the bat I can say that those are standard R32 headlights, not the N1 versions. Great looking car though mate, more pics!