jay-rod
-
Posts
524 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by jay-rod
-
R34 Traction Control Mods
jay-rod replied to Proximity Motorsport's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
unopened neo hypergear ss2 1000cc injectors e85 ext gate blah blah the usual -
R34 Traction Control Mods
jay-rod replied to Proximity Motorsport's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Wow i don't even remember posting what i said. That said, i still have traction control @300kw+ It works...to some extent, makes for some funny noises. But i take back my statement from ages ago, right foot is tc -
SS2 E85 ~21 psi @ 4000-4200
-
Ok makes sense. I though you meant on the street
-
"road racing" Huh?
-
Exactly. In the long run a plug in ecu will be a much better choice.
-
Measures the absolute pressure, which in turn allows you to mitigate the negatives of a AFM. Eg, reverbaration, dirty afm affecting the signal, removes pretty much any limit on max airflow. Atmos based blow off valve will not stall an engine Comming off throttle will be alot "Smoother" A pressure line will run to a sensor ( think of it like a boost sensor ). This sensor will either be external, or internal to the ECU. Most plug in ECU's use internal map sensors, and would be what you want. You then remove the need for a AFM, and take them completely out of your engine bay. And run a single boost line to the map sensor
-
Tuner can tell you. Once you know, get rid of AFM and go MAP.( adaptronic or haltech plug in ) That said, you can still go beyond the limits of AFM's EDIT I remember Matt saying from there testing the limit is around 370kw for a single z32 Could try a HPX maf, but i would just replace the ecu if you are looking for over 400kw
-
Adaptronic
-
Jjr Heater Hose Kit Review ? Legit ?
jay-rod replied to cobrAA's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I got the jjrs on mine Seem ok Had them on there for about 4 years now I cut one up for a temp sensor, seems to be ok. -
The temp rises Dramatically with the stock one on the track. Im only going by experience personally with 2 r34s. Unless your eyes are constantly on the temp gauge, or like you said have an alarm, then it can quite easily overheat. Its one of those things where you cant be to careful. But if you trust the stock r33 radiator...then go ahead I certainly wouldnt
-
Nope, every r34 i have heard off has the same issues, the radiator is just that small and useless. If its a different size than the 33s then it might be ok... But i still would say change it, dont risk blowing a head gasket just because you dont want to change it.
-
Toothpaste, just wipe it all over the window
-
I disagree with this, unless you only street the car. Swapping the radiator is something you should do. The thickness of the stock radiator is appalling, and does a pretty bad job at cooling at extended wot throttle/turbo load. ( all depending on your ambient temperature of course) Going from a stock r34gtt radiatior (around 15mm) to 50 mm one was night and day. From ~2 laps full throttle at the track to ~4-5 laps full throttle.
-
FYI aircon does a better job at defogging
-
Npc Performance Clutches! Thumbs Up!
jay-rod replied to Yeedogga's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Had my 10 Carbonetic for about a year now, just finshed racewars over the weekend Handled my 2nd gear 6000 rpm clutch dumps all 3 days Probably about over 30 launches. with ~310kw -
Mine fit perfectly fine, but that's just one person i guess. Since then the flange has been chopped off, so fitment/gasket issues are nill. And if the average person has the choice between a 199 dollar stainless dump and a 400+ brand name 3inch. You know what most people would choose. But i do agree, 4 inch would be better way to go, but not exactly necessary. Its not really possible to get off the shelf 4 inch or even 3.5 inch for a reasonable price unless you get it made up for you. Especially the r34. I think stao's main market is the bolt on people here, and those people are not really in it for the "max dyno" number.
-
I read what was said as being the JJR dump was a bad item to use in general. I thought zebra was saying the JJR is not "Good". Of course going bigger is better, getting a mild steel system made up is by far the cheapest if you are on a budget. What i was saying is the JJR dump is perfectly fine piece, the only issue people seem to have is sometimes they don't line up to the 6 bolt stock flange. But if you want you can look at the dyno thread and see some people with 3 inch exhausts up in the >370kw range. Stao himself has results with 3 inch exhaust in upwards of >370kw Even one of his later ones is upwards of 430kw with 3 inch..
-
A 3 inch JJR exhaust is perfectly fine. A bit of die grinding on the dump flange and its perfect.( if using standard 6 bolt )
-
That sucks man The world of cars
-
A Question For You High Boost People
jay-rod replied to Kinkstaah's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Put up a dyno sheet for Stao and Gtsboy The gate not opening in second seems a little strange. Does it have a low rev limit set? -
23 is fine Its those runs he did when the ATR45, well over 23 fine for a healthy motor that is
-
My guess it was those 28 psi pulls
