Pattey21

Thank you for the responses guys, seems it was my VCT solenoid. Cheers

Hi gents, Came back from a two week holiday and did a service on my R33 s2 Rb25det. Changed Oil, cleaned afm with electrical cleaner and swapped back from pod to air box and snorkel with trust filter. I run a air box 99% of the time. I was giving it a boot at night on Monday and noticed it wasn't as quick as it normally would be with less of a punch in the mid-range. Basically felt like it would on a hot summers day, rather than 10pm at night heading into winter. As it's SAFC tuned I can see the AFM reading as a percentage and normally in summer it would hit 76-80% and in winter 82-87% It was hitting low 80's this night but just felt slow. Started fault finding, re-cleaned afm, checked fault codes, Checked for loose hoses etc No obvious boost leak, still hitting and holding 10psi and turbo is not any less responsive than usual. Removed air box filter lid/filter/snorkel for a run and only marginally quicker but didn't seem like it was the issue. Replaced the fuel filter too, no difference. I then removed all corrections on the safc so it was essentially just running stock and I couldn't tell the difference. Kept doing runs with 0 corrections and then adding the corrections it was tuned for and I can't tell the difference. So now I'm at a bit of a loss, I don't have a wideband to see if the corrections are effecting open loop AFRs or if the fuel pump is dying. Had a walbro put in at the time of tune 5 years ago. Basically it's had the same setup, 10psi, MBC, return flow and full exhaust with SAFC tune for 5 years and all of a sudden it just feels like it's slower like it's lost its tune/less ignition timing. Any ideas, whether could be fuel pump dying, still a marginal boost leak or a problem with the SAFC? Just want to try anything before getting it on the Dyno. Cheers Patrick

Yep definitely would like to keep the crisp transient response. DC?

Okay great. Is ball bearing not recommended as you find bush response enough/minmial gain or you run into surgeing issue when going ball bearing. Cheers

@hyper-gearHi stao, My r33 turbo sounds like it's on its way out and have been looking at your g2 350hp profile hiflow, that works with stock ecu/piggy back Have you ever made these with a BB core? I understand that these would already be quite responsive but I'd rather pay extra for slightly faster spool and improved partial throttle response. I have been looking at HKS 2530 equivalents with the magic 100kw@3000rpm but obviously your option is financially more viable. Attached is the current tune I have on a stock turbo (red run) and normal supporting mods/piggback, so aiming for a replacement turbo with similar response.

Hi guys my car got broken into and nearly stolen yesterday, wondering if anyone has a steering column surround in decent condition. And maybe the SRS airbag sensor. Cheers

Thank you for your response, pulled the dash off because its faster haha. Managed to get the plug for the servo stuck inbetween the middle and right heater box, so I would have thought I plugged it in as there were no loose plugs lol! Was in a big rush the day I did it last Friday before camping. Still wasnt working after plugging it back in so I metered the relay and there was no voltage on the relay. Turns out it blew a fuse as well. Now it works, beer time!

Hello, As above just recently fixed the clunking in dash on a r33 s2. However now the a/c doesn't work and I can't hear the a/c compressor kick in when I press the ac button. Run diagnostics that all check out. However is there some way I managed to stuff up replacing the servo which now won't allow my a/c pumpp to kick in. I thought that servo controlled modes ie feet,face demist. Just looking for ideas before I pull it all apart. Cheers

Skyline parts: R33 gts-t airbox with enlarged cai/snorkel (used heat gun to reduce restrictions in snorkel). Brand new airfilter. $100 ono R34 Smic supported 210rwkw $50 R33 radiator flushed $50 R33 Bov no leaks $50 R33 side indicators $25 Pm for details

R33 gts-t airbox with enlarged cai/snorkel (used heat gun to reduce restrictions in snorkel). Brand new airfilter. $100 posted located in Canberra. Pm for details

Engine mounts sold. Will consider offers

May not make sense to you but you lost all warranty/tuner liability when you failed to fill the oil correctly.

Block the bov, slap some dirty 20's on the Kent and win at life

Hicas when working is fine. Unless your wheel alignment at the rear is out you will still suffer from camber wear. Either raise car to reduce camber or buy rear adjustable camber arms or bushes. Your local suspension shop should be able to cater for this

lol do they have nissan donut pillows too

Ah k fair enough. Yeah I'm pretty sure if I disconnect one of the plugs to the top its will idle about 1400

have you adjusted the aac valve the recessed srew on the left side of the plenum, or just the tb screw?

Righto mines sitting at 700rpm. Nothing wrong with higher rpm besides frivolous difference in fuel consumption. Plenty of good diy for aac cleaning on here

Clean aac valve as it is far easier, however if that fails the actual cold start valve under the plenum may need cleaning. It is painful to get too hence trying aac first. What's your idle rpm?

cold start running as bit rough, so cleaned aac valve and adjust tb voltage to 0.45v (was 0.29v previously).

haha I didn't see you come in

glad it went in okay, without a back to back dyno/run of road and accelearing style will be difficult to tell the difference of just a high flow cat.

was probably me

Nah some you bloke who was going to use it while he fixes his car. Crashed it trying to do a skid lol

Selling r33 5k really goon on fuel!