Missileman

I'm not 100% certain as I've never done a swap, try phoning MV Automatics, they have the best reputation in the country for nissan trannies I'm sure they can advise you. http://www.mvautomatics.com.au/

20&25AT = same same

webber has more excuses than wayne swan

The modern Bosch EV14 injector should handle idling quite well in a RB20 even 800cc ones. if I were you I would be going for some of these, with a Nistune they're drop in and decent value... http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb20det/1989-94-rb20det

oh do name the workshop who quoted you that, it's the right thing to do

what about filling the gap by wrapping some very thin copper wire around it???????????

LH ... bang bang

problems for perelli = great excellent advertizement for michelin lol smart michelin marketing, yeah fcuk bernie and his greed

much enjoying legends of f1 on sky Sir jack Brabham what an aussie

no apology necessary, some times i'm blunt, some times i'm sarcastic, a lot of the the time i'm just plain rude, i put it down to old age. oh and I'm not trying to push penrite, in fact i've never used it, though i may give it a try next change.

There is some truth in what he said there in that racing ten doesn't have the latest ACEA ratings like A4 A5/B5 like the Enviro but the rest is complete BS. Racing 10 does have high zinc (ZDDP) which is good for RB engines especially Neo's and RB26's with solid lifters, oils with high zinc and phosphorous levels tend to clog catalytic converters faster and hence they don't meet the latest standards for petrol/ diesel economy engines designed to run in California with their strict laws. It's service life is fine for daily driving, hence it's A3/ B3 rating... For use in high performance petrol and diesel cars and light commercials where extended drain intervals are specified by the vehicle manufacturer and / or for year-round use of low viscosity oils and / or for use in severe operating conditions as defined by the vehicle manufacturer. ...probably one of the better oils to use in an RB!

turbo timer ???????

for $10 more I would be going for the full zinc Racing 10 http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/010%20TENTHS%20RACING%20OIL%2010%20NOV%202012.pdf

Put the tools down, go have a shower and clean up then empty a few stubbies, come back tomorrow and try again. works every time for me

The correct washers are not the flat type, they're a crush washer. See what your local Nissan dealer wants for one or buy a 10 pack from ebay... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160648840409?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

IBL

If you're going to spend big bucks on racing fuel, then it would be silly not fork out for a vent dryer, ethanol will pull water vapor out of the air and contaminate you precocious. http://www.industrysearch.com.au/Moisture-Contamination-Drum-Vent-Dryers/p/96242 http://raschtacoatings.com.au/docs/auxiliary/Microsoft%20Word%20-%20Equipment%20Sheets_Drum%20Vent%20Dryers.pdf

Cheers mate, much appreciated.

Since this was your first time doing it, you should have a few tips of where you went wrong or could have done it quicker etc, and what specialty tools were needed, that's the type of info noobs like myself would be keen read.

should write up a tutorial if yours are that far out then others may benefit too

nice write-up what did the bearings cost and how much did they charge you to remove and install the bearings? cheers Mike.

how about telling everyone your location and vehicle they are for, the spring rate, and possibly a photo or two

I picked vtool for fastest lap and in the results it said I picked nando some thing fcuking weird is going on

if chin can look after his rubber, he might be in with a chance

Lucky you might be a blessing in disguise