vetter2769

Thats unreal ben!, good to see you getting active on our forums, even subaru guys are welcome here whats future plans for the 34?

But mate its really not that hard to make a car "vanish".

I bet I could post up links to about 15 odd threads that started this year (2014) all about there cars being stolen, or theft attempts, from the VIC section alone, but if I'm honest 38 cars stolen per 10,000 sounds kinda good to me, especially when I have secure parking. I see a lot of thefts happen when the cars parked on the street, or at the train station etc... But waddya do? crim's gonna crim. also side note - Just car won't cover you for theft unless you have a AUS/NZ approved immobiliser (installed by authorised dealer), only just found out the other day...

I can help you with all those things! I'm in Geelong, Vic 3222, send me a PM if you'd like to set something up.

Email sent!

I could make you one, you'd be looking around $500 for parts, materials and my time, and then shipping form Vic to Adelaide on top.

Cheers mate, I can only assume he had 280 at the wheels as thats what he told me moments before the race. Either way it was mad fun, I recommend it to anyone !

Truth is it does change your tune, the exhaust is now more "flowable" therefore making it easier for the turbo to spool up, and it should now be making more boost than before (not much maybe 1-2psi more) I learnt this when I upgraded my standard 34 gtt exhaust, and went and had it tuned with a piggy back + pod + ebc - made 210kw Im kinda unsure of your question... so no you don't "have" to get it tuned, it will be fine without it, the standard ecu will cope with it, possibly by changing the timing or removing fuel from the map. Turbo cars are much more sensitive to changes than N/A cars, so just remember everything you do has greater effects, definitely get looking through SAU archives for solid info. And the rattle - I would never have taken my car to a shop to do a simple exhaust change over, but continuously return to the shop you got it done at till they fix it!!!!!! Or take them for a drive, and show them. If you've had a shop put your exhaust on, then it doesn't sound like your the kinda person who will undo all there work to find the problem, otherwise you would have done it yourself in the first place....

Thats cool, but some in-car dvd screens already have that mirror software built in to it (but only for android, far as I've seen) Most smart phones have a cable that goes form phone > hdmi, then you can buy a hdmi > av for your car anyway. Either way still seems cool, but yeah a lot like apple TV..... Edit - spelling

I dont understand how it connects to your screen in your car? like does it have an av out?

Heres my sexy 34 at the drags a few weeks ago I took on a holden senator with a worked LS1, heres what happened for those that haven't seen

I'd love to know how to get this thing off, I tried for ages the other night and it wouldn't budge. I only wanted to remove it for painting purposes, instead I taped it up and painted away.

Can we pay the WRX club members fee of $130? or will it be $180 for us?

The guy who owned the senator told me "it has roughly 280 rwkw with cams and mafless tune" - those were his words, I don't know the guy, I didn't even look under his bonnet. My 34 - stock turbo, ebc, safc, 3" exhaust stock gear box, nothing special, I'm still enjoying the quick spool of the stock turbo. Best time was 13.2, the track was rather slippery on that day, not that I go to the drags often. His car wasn't stock.

Sharing a video of my latest bash at the drags, one opponent I cam up against had a 280kw ls1 senator, heres how it went down -

I've had this little gadget for a while now and have been wanting to try it out and get it tested.... and it works a treat! - so heres a little guide on how to install them and get them up and running. These little units control the temp of your radiator for a fraction of the price of a proper thermo controller system. The original design was to control the temp of fish tanks, therefore it has a heating and cooling function, more on this later. ************************************ Please note ----- I take no responsibility for mistakes you may make or things you may blow up during the process of this guide, all electrical work 'should' be carried out by an authorised auto elec. But if your feeling brave like me, and have a fair understanding of how electrical stuff works or are the type of person that has installed a few sound systems then you should be fine ***************************** They can be purchased on ebay, just search for "DC 12V Digital Thermostat Temperature Control" and you should find something like what i've shown in the picture. Also heres a good link on how to use the controller - http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112617 Things you will need include - - Temp controller - Radiator fans (mine just cleared the power steering belt by 10mm) - Relay that matches or exceeds the current draw of fans - preferably an inline fuse (10a should be right) - Basic set of tools - Some electrical knowledge - between 6 and 10 beers All up it took me around 6 hours over 2 days, but I also installed a new sound system while I had everything apart. So I decided to place it in the single din pocket below my radio, along with some other switches that operate my subwoofers and garage doors. I measured out the size of the single din and went down to the local plastic store to have a piece of perspex cut, cost a few dollars, and then whipped out the dremel and drill and cut out holes for my garage door switches, sub controller and temp controller. Pic of relay, inline fuse and temp controller unit. Next I put the temp sensor probe next to my radiator temp sensor for my gauges. I drilled a hole (but didn't drill all the way through) and simply placed the probe in the hole with some special heat resistant glue stuff (hole was a tight fit). note - the top and bottom radiator hoses will be at different temperatures, I've placed my probe in the top (hot side) as its near the same place the factory ECU gets its readings from. If you use the bottom radiator hose, you will be dealing with colder temps. Its around this stage that you need to work out the wiring stuff, heres a handy diagram from that link I posted above that I followed, Its got all the pinouts on the relay so its real easy to follow. You want to get your relay as close to your fans as possible (thats the point of them) I found an empty spot in my fuse/relay box and used that for my relay and inline fuse. I had to run 2 wires through the fire wall one was the 12+ signal to activate relay, and other was for the temp probe, if you drill your own holes make sure you use a rubber grommet so the wires don't rub on bare metal, otherwise try to use an existing rubber grommet. (sorry no pics of this bit) Once you've ran your wires through, I put everything back together and set up the controller, use that link I posted above to work out how to use it, ideally you'd like the fans to come on at 90 and turn off at 85, or if you'd like to run cooler then you can do so. Its also a good idea to try to match the temps that you'd like to run with your thermostat, the OEM thermostat in the 34 gtt runs hotter than its 33 gtst predecessor. The 34 opens around 85 and is fully open at 90, whereas the 33 starts to open around 76?... I think and is fully open around 80? The reason for the 34 being so hot is for omissions. Side note - if you go and buy one of those cold thermostats (nismo/trident etc) that are fully open at 70 degrees, it will cause the car to "warm up slower". While your car is in this "warm up" mode the car's ECU will naturally add extra fuel to your map (in order to warm it up) and if your car is staying to cold ie. with a cold thermostat then your car will forever be adding extra fuel to the map (until it gets above a certain temp and ends 'warm up mode'), and this is why you see some cars driving around with black soot all over their rear bar. So that ends my water temp controller install guide, hopefully this will help some people. Just don't forget to read through that link about how to set it up and you'll be fine. Cheers - Daniel

I only liked your pst Duncan because you went to so much effort to list every possible driveline part that could come loose, did it take you long?

yeah its been over a week for me since i've started playing online and hasn't asked for fee's... Maybe your talking about a season pass? that was an optional extra to the game, I think it just gives you extra maps and game plays or something

time for a good ole fashion egging

how is it going? Sorry the Geelong boys couldn't make it (most of us cbf with the 4 hour round trip

what are you talking about? I bought the game and just started playing online...

You can run just about any 4 chan amp for that money. I'd suggest Kicker 4 chan, do you know how to tune in the speakers? If not then forget about it, or get it done by someone who knows what they're doing.

because your not running massive amounts of boost, which causes crank pressure which causes oil to blow out the breather hole and get trapped in your catch can.

nah mate, we don't own 4 doors, was it a silver 4 door though? I think I know the guy.