Shoota_77

Anyone else had problems not being able to paste photos? I can't embed out of Photobucket any more

What an awesome drive that would be! You'll have driven more in the last week than I have in mine in 5 years! A lot of Nissan lovers would have got a kick out of seeing that flying through the desert! Good job.

Garrett 2860-5 hence "-5's" or "dash 5's".

I had the -5's on my 26 which I found to be a bit laggy but I've decided to keep them and hoping they'll be perfect on my 30/26. I've got a similar goal of 450kw but will be happy with 400-425kw as long as the response is good which I'm expecting it to be on the bigger motor, higher comp, oversized valves, etc. If I had the spare coin I'd go a precision 6466 or a BW EFR but I'm sure 400+Kw will be enough for now. You'll pick up a set of -5's pretty cheap (under $1500) and still get the same money back 6 months later if it's not enough so they're worth a try I reckon! Good luck with it, let us know what you decide. I'd love to give you actual data but I'm still a few months away from hitting the dyno!

I used this when I rewired my new ECU. http://www.clubskyline.ru/files/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf Makes life a lot easier! Doesn't print too well so I just use the IPad to view it.

Unusual step down but the welds look quality. Very nice tig work.

Presuming it's the same as Skyline, undo lower ball joint from control arm, sway bar links then axle nut. Passenger side unbolts from side of diff, drivers side you need to lever out. There is a circlip that you need to pop the shaft out of. Can take a bit of levering at times. ONLY use genuine cv boots, all others are shite.

If you've got the time and the inclination do it all. None of the recommended measures are detrimental to anything else (apart from the head to sump vent being a pain for heater hoses) so do everything you possibly can while the engine is out of the car. Once it's back in it's too late. If you're interested here is what I did with my head and block while mine was all apart (start at page 3 if it doesn't go straight there)-

I'm glad you're getting all of this wiring practice Glen, you can pop around and do mine next, I'm over it!!!

Yeah don't worry about it. If it doesn't drip after 15 minutes then it's still roadworthy so if it's not annoying you just leave it.

Quickest test is to try another CAS if you have access to one. If not you might need a workshop manual to look up testing procedure, I don't remember if there is another way to test it other than with an oscilloscope. The fact that you have fuel pressure but no injection plus no spark you need to look at what components restrict both from happening. Can you use your ECU software to look at outputs while cranking?

Heaps of things to look at but check the trigger setup (is it aftermarket?). If the ECU isn't getting a signal it won't inject or spark. Do you have an immobiliser that cuts fuel/spark? Quite often a candidate. Good luck!

IMO if you're chasing anything decent power it's time for a trigger setup. Gets rid of a variable. What at sort of $$ for the Emtron? Are they easy to tune or very specialised bit of kit? That's probably where the Haltech range are attractive, they're quite easy to tune (up to a point anyway). Cant wait to see this thing bangin through the gears! ETA on completion?

Quote I got on R33 GTR was very reasonable. Race track option is awesome too. Not many insurers offer that at a reasonable price.

Glad you got something back Peter. All of it would have been nice but it would be pretty rare that ever happens. At the very least you would hope said workshop will learn from the absolute balls up they made of not just the work but their shitty follow up and acceptance of what went wrong. Nothing but good times from here on!

Hopefully this tiny little sucker will do the trick. It's under 70mm long so heaps shorter than the standard master plus the location of the outlet being further forward hopefully should be a winner. Only dramas will be the outside bore size (to fit inside the booster), sealing it to hold vacuum and lastly the fact that the mounting tabs are in different locations. Apart form that perfect!!

Ha ha "plebs"! Yeah I'm trying the cheap option first (master), if that fails then delete booster is the way. I need to do more squats anyway to buff up my pigeon legs! When the car was still on the road (bloody years ago!) I drove it to work one day when it must have been a full moon the night before. There were about 3 crashes and 4 breakdowns along the Westgate Freeway and through the tunnels. It took over 2 1/2 hours to get to work (27kms). The clutch I had then was a bloody heavy single plate so by the time I got to work my left leg was so f#$%ed I could barely walk when I got out! It was the worst trip to work in my life. I never drove it to work ever again! Now that I'm in the country my trip to work is 10 minutes regardless of traffic so if I do ever drive it to work I'll need to leave home 20 minutes early and head out into the country a bit just to warm it up properly.

Thanks Luke. Maybe if you could measure the length of the master cylinder itself. The GTS-T booster will be a bit better as it exits underneath not to the side. I think it would have to be shorter than the GT-R master as well (which I don't think it is) as the outlet location. I'm pretty sure mine is about 80mm long for reference. If I have to live with out boosted clutch I'm sure it will be fine. Especially with a Nismo Coppermix which are famous for being so light. Cheers.

One word - Faaaaaark!!! It hits very solidly so it's in the way by a fair whack. The engine still needs to come up a bit which will make the problem worse! It looks like I have 2 options, try to find a shorter master cylinder or delete the booster. Preference is for option 1 but firstly finding one that is small enough to fit and secondly one that will seal the booster (to hold in the vacuum) is going to be a challenge. I've ordered what appears to be a smaller master but we'll see what happens when it rocks up. The lugs are in different places to the standard master so it's not a straight forward solution at all! Its looking like strong clutch leg is forthcoming!

You're all midgets, I'm 6'8", you'll piss it in! A bit concerned about once I get a cage but for now it's fine.

It does help centralise the disc as its a tapered head but it will be fine without it. If you can get it out and replace it you may as well but not the end of the world. Many cars don't have them at all.

Great to see someone getting so much use out of their car, good on you! Hopefully my car doesn't know how to use YouTube, it might get a bit jelly....

It will flick the belt off at full noise, you'll lose power steering and prang it into a wall. Not really worth it is it? Put it on mate! If visibility is a problem remove everything that makes it a difficult job. Once you can see what you're doing it will be easy. It's only 2 12mm head bolts holding on the tensioner bracket so put that on first before you put the pump in place.

Fark no. 100% needs the tensioner bracket. The bracket needs to be bolted to the block first then the top of the pump slides into the bracket. then the bottom bolt into the tensioner.

Do we know how they're overriding alarms? I spoke to our local alarm guy today about getting an alarm for mine and he was telling me about alarms now being "black wire" alarms where every wire in the wiring loom is black in colour so makes it next to impossible to know which is the correct wire to cut. I know steering clubs are gay as unicorn poo but if that's the only resort to keeping the pricks away then I'd be doing it. Otherwise GPS tracking units are getting cheaper and cheaper or just cable tie an old Iphone under the seat that is wired to constant 12v and keep it tracked via "Find My Iphone". Either rock up where it is with baseball bats or call the cops. Let's work a bit harder and smarter to keep these pricks from stealing our pride and joy.