Shoota_77

Exhaust bits- Damn 4" pipe is huge! It's going to be a battle fitting it all under there! The Magnaflow muffler is beautiful, I'm very sceptical about the quietness though....

Perfect colour combo with the black Works! Enjoy what will be a stunning car!

Finished wiring up the coils to the CDI module, just need to get the right plug leads and then the ignition side of the engine is finally done! I went and picked up all of the parts to build my exhaust yesterday. It will be twin 2.75" dumps/front pipes into single 4" all the way through. All up it came to $1300 (excluding dumps and front pipes) so it's going to be an expensive little exercise even with me making it (unless I realise at some point that I'm waaaay out of my depth and get someone else to make it!). It'll all be V Band clamps so provided my welds are ok it should look pretty nice. No mid muffler and rear muffler is a 4" straight through Magnaflow so hopefully it's quiet enough. In my town there are only about 5 Skylines that I know of so I really don't want to stand out from the crowd too much as there's nowhere to hide!

A plan and reality can be two very different things! We'll see how it all plays out in reality by the end of the year. Can't f'ing wait!

Thanks mate. Fuel system will be Nismo pump (which was all I was running on the previous setup) acting as a lift pump into an under car surge tank running twin 044's that will be staged so the secondary will only kick in at a certain range so it's not running 2 all the time. The Haltech will be monitoring the fuel pressure and act as a failsafe if there's ever a drop in pressure (cut timing or spark). I'm running through the normal supply pipe plus using the original return pipe as the secondary supply pipe. I'm running braided AN6 hose as the new return. Hopefully that doesn't cause any extra restriction but I'll see how it goes. I'll be mainly running E85 but it will be setup as flex fuel so I've mounted the ethanol sensor in the return line.

Look at it in person @Nismo 3.2ish then you'll know what a headache it really is!! Nearly at the end of it now though. I'll finish off the coil pack to CDI module wiring tonight then that will just leave the wideband oxy sensor wiring (once I've welded the bungs to the front pipes) and then thermo fans to do. There will be a few other additional bits and pieces (additional fuel pump, water/meth kit, etc) but I can see light at the end of the wiring tunnel now! I'm hoping to hit the key (not to start it just to get oil pressure up and check sensors and other ECU inputs to make sure they're all talking to each other) within the next 2-3 weeks.

Thanks @mr_rbman, I've got a full set of sizes ordered, just waiting for them to turn up. I think a big part of it as well is I was running it too hot too which was bringing in more impurities. Now that I've dropped back the amps a bit it seems better. Still a lot of practice before I'm ready to weld up my exhaust!

Could be front diff on its way out.

I've got one I can post if you can wait?

I have no doubt it would have cost that to build it but unfortunately that does not instantly mean it's worth that. It'd be nice if it did, we'd all get something back in our pocket after blowing a years wage on a car...

Wiring is almost finished. Just need to wire direct power to the ECU (using the wiring harness to connect directly to the battery as opposed to patching into the car. Just reduces the likelihood of any issues and makes chasing power issues easier too) and wire in the AEM ignition module. Mounted the pressure reg and ethanol sensor and made up hoses to suit. I'm also running a fuel pressure sensor as well so I can use that as a failsafe to cut power if I lose pressure for any reason- http:// http:// http://

I'm in the process of building an RB30/26 at the moment. If I had my time over again I would have stuck with an RB28/29 stroker. A WHOLE lot less stuffing around. My car would still be on the road rather than off it for 4 years if I'd stayed RB26 (as the base engine). I have zero doubt the 30 is going to be awesome but less headaches and a pretty similar result could be had from a non RB30. I've thoroughly enjoyed the whole process but you'd only do it with a pretty high base mechanical knowledge or get it done in a workshop (but will cost a bomb). You will get 50 different responses on this, it's a very subjective (and understandably so) question. At the end of the day there is no such thing as a crap RB, they're all awesome!

Stunning. Im guessing employed in the mining sector? Seems to be the case in so many builds like this in WA!

Made another quick update video-

I looked everywhere for one (apart from a UK Skyline site obviously!) but could only find the one I bought. Credit goes to you for the concept then, thanks for designing it!

Missed opportunity maybe? You might have sold a few by now if it was a few years ago! I'm glad at least one person got something out of it! Yeah I'm pretty fortunate to have such a good shed and a great wife that doesn't ask "Where did that come from?" or "How much did that cost?" every time she comes in the shed! Thankfully she doesn't visit too often.....

I'd be worried if you can hear the wastegate venting at 9 PSI. Seems to indicate it's bleeding off too early. You need to get one of these- Remove the wastegate from the manifold (so you can see when it starts to open) and then disconnect the vacuum/pressure hose at the engine (so you're including all hose between engine and wastegate which may identify a leak somewhere) and then apply pressure (not vacuum) to the wastegate actuator. In theory it should not crack open AT ALL until you reach what is supposed to be the wastegate spring pressure. If it's opening before the target pressure then you either have a weak spring, a leaky diaphragm or a leak in the vacuum/pressure hose. That's my evaluation anyway!! Good luck.

Too easy. Pretty much finished off wiring up the top of the engine last night- Just MAP sensor, cam and crank triggers to do from the top then the fiddly crap under the intake manifold is next. Fitting the wideband oxy sensors to the front pipes will be fun too.... At least now having the TIG I can weld on the bungs myself once I get a bit more practice.

@reaper mate really hard to measure with it all in the car but measures up to between 105-108mm. Hopefully that helps!

No probs Brett, I'll do it tonight and come back to you.

ECU- Now E don't CU- "She's all factory ociffer......" cue drunken slur. I decided to mount the ECU now and properly or it'll end up banging around on the floor for all time. Fits nicely behind the kick panel. To be honest I wasn't expecting it to!

Wiring- I bought myself an el cheapo Ching Long Lie AC/DC TIG welder so I can do some stainless and alloy wleding. I've had a bit of a practice to start to get the hang of how it works. It's a lot harder than MIG welding but I think I'll get the hang of it after a bit (ie a shitload!) more practice. Just getting the hang of heat control at the moment-

I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure you need to buy the Spool girdle in conjunction with their main cap kit which is another $1600 or so. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure that's how it works. You can get the mains on their own but not the girdle on it's own.

Ok, I haven't posted for a while as I was having trouble embedding photos. I've had some ups and downs of late. I was nearly ready to bolt the k frame to the car when I discovered my sump adapter blocked the rear dipstick hole.... So engine out, sump off and I drilled out the bush that blocks the front dipstick hole. I made a little adapter to lock the dipstick in as it was a bit loose. So repeated the whole process again and finally bolted it back into the car- I ended up getting a clutch booster delete from Garage 101. Very nice piece of billet aluminium that brings the clutch master back a fair way- It's still EXTREMELY close to hitting my inlet but it should be ok! If I decide to try to engineer it I might be in trouble though (10mm rule)- So as of today I've mounted the ECU and run the wiring into the cabin, I'm now in the process of running the wiring through the engine bay and terminating it at the sensors/connectors. In some ways I'm so close and yet I'm still so far away from completion!

You can buy a girdle if you can find one. It will need to be machined and then line bored to match your crank. It has nothing to do with the bores, just the crank.