Jump to content
SAU Community

My First Skyline's guide to changing your oil and oil filter in an R33.


Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Xeron

While it is a good idea to let the engine sit for a while so the oil can run down, you still want the oil hot. Not goto hospital cause u got 3rd degree burns hot, but hot. This makes sure any shit in ur oiling system is still suspended in the oil and will come out when you drain it instead of settling on the bottom.

And i havent worked on a skyline personally, but can you drain all the oil from the sump with the front jacked, most cars u really should put the rear on stands aswell.

Good advice. As for jacking, the plug is to the back of the of the sump, so I'd say jacking at the front is the best idea.

Originally posted by surreal

Good job son!!

Will we get a gearbox episode?

Probably not. I got my oil changed a while ago... if someone wants to pm me with a massively easy way to do it, I'd do it and document it.

Originally posted by Ozzy

Mate...you're a gem....I've just done the job....piece of piss, but I didnt need to remove the plasitc tray....the sump was visible in mine ??

Thanks tons for the informative guide...very helpful.

Ozzy

same here! :D

Its a good idea to use a new sump washer. When you fill a skyline i ussually put just under 4L then run it just long enough to fill the filter, then leave it for a few mins and top up the oil until its the right level. If you just put 4.5L in first time it will ussually be over full from the left over oil in the sump. It doesnt matter how long you leave it there will be a bit of oil still in the engine. I use Mobil 1 0w40 workshop Grade. Its the best oil i have used so far. You can notice a slight difference between that and the Mobil 1 5w40, its hard to get though unless you work for a Work shop that uses it.

I have changes Gear Box oil in 2 r32's. You only need a Half inch Ratchet. There is one plug on the bottom and one on the side. The one on the bottom is to drain the gear box and the one on the side is to fill and set the level. Once the Oil is drained put the bottom plug on then if you havent already taken the side plug off. Now you will want to have some sort of hand pump to pump the oil from the bottle into the gear box. Once the oil starts spilling out the side plug as you are filling it, stop and leave it for 5 mins or until it stops dripping. This is the box draining until its level is correct. (just below the plug). Refit plug.

Now if u cant be bothered getting a hand pump (like i couldnt the first time i did it) the best way to fill it will be to take the Gear stick surround out and then take the stick out and fill the manual box though the top. With a funnel of course. It should take about 3.5 to 4L. I have used Catsrol VMX80 and the boxes have been smooth as silk. After you have filled it through the stick just remove the level Plug and let it drain till it stops again.

I havent yet done it on my R33 or an Auto. Cant be to different to any other Auto Box but.

Castol VMX80??? I have about 4-5l of this sitting in my garage. I was goin to use it but from what i hear from others, they all use alot more expensive and higer quality brands.

What does everyone else think?

Originally posted by Bleach1

Its a good idea to use a new sump washer. When you fill a skyline i ussually put just under 4L then run it just long enough to fill the filter, then leave it for a few mins and top up the oil until its the right level.  

Erm... that's what I did. :D Except for the washer bit. *shrug*

Sciby, i was just refering to something someone else said in the thread.

VMX80 is what castrol recommends for most high performance nissans from about 91 - 97. That is for normal driving conditions though. If you drive really hard maybe you would want to use something else.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys.....changed my oil......question...what happens when u put too much engine oil in?? cause i put 4L in first let it run and then toped it up but ended up toppin it up too much. whats the worst thing that could happen?? also can u get the sump washer from any local place cause discovered that mine was flattened (must have been an air wrench) so now it leaks abit at the sump. damn....should have read ur post earlier bleach.....hehe

The gearbox is easier! two plugs - one at bottom and one at drivers side top... bottom one drains, top one fills. I got a mate and used a hand pump to pump the oil in, lot easier then trying to run a hose through the engine bay! ;)

Cheers

Sumo

Out of interest, how do you check the gearbox oil level ?

Also ... how much oil is too much ?? Where on the dipstick should it be sitting after resting for a while ? Also can overfilling (not spilling out but you know what I mean, over the full mark on the stik) be bad ?

If oil is spilling out of the dipstick tube, you've used too much.

It's simple, don't use more than 4.5l and you'll be fine. Overfilling can be bad (pressure, so I've been told), but a little bit over won't kill anything. There's a low and a high mark on the dipstick, mine filled to about 9/10th between low and high. Anything above that high line is overfilled.

Stick to 4.5l and you'll be fine.

thanks.......yeah i poured in 4L at first and it was perfect after runnin in the car for a while......decided to top it up a lil under 4.5L cause wasnt sure of the first readin and its over the max level by about 3-5mm....my mistake.....hehe. should have takein into accoud residue oil in the engine. oh wells......pressure seems to be the same as what it was before i changed it which was is lil over 1/4mark. seems to be runnin ok so far so ill keep my fingers crossed till next oil change.

cheers:D

  • 4 weeks later...

Got a couple of questions for you guys

- What do you do with the old oil (gearbox and engine). Do you stick it in a bottle and chuck it, or pour it in the neighbours garden, or what?

- Where can you get a hand-pump for changing the gearbox oil?

Guys, I have some urgent questions ... Don't know what to do.

I had my car recently serviced at 76,735 KM on the odometer. All fluids replaced etc, checked out the level of oil, all seemed well ...

Car is now sitting at 80,540 KM on the odometer (3 weeks after service, racked up a few KM), I checked the oil last night and all I could see was some very grubby oil on the bottom "knob" of the dipstick, eg like 5 mm representing .... doesn't even make it to the "high / low" measurement.

I wouldn't think 3805 km could eat oil like that .. I have no idea where it's gone, I'm not leaving oil when I park etc .....

I kinda shit myself and had 2.5 litres of Shell Helix sitting in the garage which was purchased only 6 weeks ago .... so I stuck it all in and let her run for about 5 mins.

Now usually my oil pressure guage reads at about 1 at idle and has been doing so even with what I assumed was a very low level of oil, however after topping her up I looked at my oil pressure guage which was reading about 4, then settling to 3.5 at idle ....

This seemed a little strange ... After letting her run for 5 mins I started hearing a "ticking" or "tapping" noise, decided immediately to turn her off and check the oil level ....

Checked it out, all of a sudden it's well over the high mark by about 4 mm .... It makes no sense.

Any ideas ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...