Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay guys just asking is it hard to get a cams licence what do you have to do to get one is it very expensive and what does it allow you to do 

=)

getting a cams license is easy, depending on what you want to do.

I recently applied for a L2S License [meaning Level 2 Speed] which allows you to partake in most events like hill climb, super sprint, motorkana, etc. The L2S License costs $85 and you can may by money order, cheque or credit card.

you have to be part of a CAMS affiliated Club in order to get a cams license also. The SAU NSW Members club is the club to join for all you SAU people.

You also need to meet certain scruitneering criteria, like having a fire extinguisher in the car etc. [ i wont go into much detail]

you will also need a number and triangle for your car you can get magnetic ones, much like i purchased from the NSCC.

its a pain in the ass setting everything up and getting everything organised, but it is the best fun when your out there racing!

hope this little info helps you a bit

-mark

[ps ive got a L2S License]

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

you have to be part of a CAMS affiliated Club in order to get a cams license also.  The SAU NSW Members club is the club to join for all you SAU people.

Unless you want to be cool in which case you join the SAU Vic for all your CAMS needs!!! I mean we even have a track sprint club championship!

:chairshot

:rofl:

  • 1 month later...
I would like to go on the licence list , I hold a current C4!

It would be good to get together a list of CAMS license holders in the club so we can:

* Find replacement drivers when necessary

* Organise practice days

* Get together ppl for hillclimbs etc.

So, post here if you hold a CAMS license!

C2NS - motorcross, khanacross

C2S - hillclimbs, supersprints

C3 - curcuit racing provisional

C4 - curcuit racing national

C5 - curcuit racing international

Also post if you've done an approved course but haven't got around to the paperwork yet.....

Mods, can you make this thread sticky?

  • 1 month later...

I hold a L2S, and have competed in a couple of GP Rallys and a heap of sprints over the years. Currently getting the car log-booked so I can enter the Victorian Hillclimb State Championship next year. I also hold a CAMS Scrutineers licence (level 3) and a Communications licence (level 4).

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
how do i get cams licence

Go to http://www.cams.com.au/content.asp?PageID=...tors&ObjectID=2 and get the appropriate application form. Depending on the type / level of licence you require, you may need to do some Observed Licence Tests (OLTs).

Don't forget that you will need to be a member of a CAMS-affiliated club first...

  • 2 months later...
cool sanger....which meets do you race at? the same historics as the group A cars, or the GEAR meets?

Hey duncan,

I race at the hsrca meets, It was good to see the skylines out at them. I have been spectating at the events for about 4 or 5 years but havent ever seen them before. I gues they havent been eligable till recently??????

If you get the gtr ready for racing again this year i will have to try and come and do some flag marshaling so that i can apply for my full licence next year.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...