Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah, it really depends on what your budget is. they are different in terms of their handling and everything. so it really depends. i like the R33 better but i have to say they are not as tough as R32s.

yeah not as quick but still bloody quick would the 33 b more reliable 4 around 30-35 g

Essentially pick which model you would prefer than buy the best condition example you can afford, personlly I prefer the shape of the 32 over the 33 and with the current costs they are more bang for buck. They do not have any inherent weaknesses, things such as gear boxs are strong, but GTR's are extremely expensive to fix hence why I said buy the best condition one you can afford.

32, better looking, and arguably better performance opportunity due to light weight and yeh, plus its just wayy nicer and cheaper too ! ;)

i thought all the GTR's weighed the same.... or was the r32 1.4 tonne and r33 1.6

32's are lighter but thier chasis was also not as stiff as the 33, plus the extra years would of made it softer again. I'd go for the newest GTR you can afford (year wise) 98 R33's are around 40-45k.. 95 ones around 35k.. then R32's start around 30k, down to the old 89 models you can pick up for 20k.

My vote is for an R33 GTR. Don't get me wrong I wouldn't love to have an R32 GTR but they are getting a little old and maintenance and repairs cannot be done at VL commodore prices. The R33 is a newer, better engineered car plus they are sexy as hell.

To me the R32 GTR was always the one to have.....to my eye's R33's look like camry's (R33 guys please note I said 'to MY eyes' before you get upset :) ). It's the same as the 240Z vs 260Z argument.....R32 was the 'first' and a bit special for that reason, but R33 is probably more refined.

As to the cost of parts, etc for R32, for the most part it's no different to r33 with the exception of stuff unique to R32 (trim, etc), but mechanicaly they are very similar. That said, given what I've seen some of you guys pay for work on your cars, well......I'm in the wrong business.....

did u have any problems with ur 32 any common 1s u know of

my only problem in 2 years is that 1 of the coil packs has gone on me.

But remember, you get what you paid for... i paid top dollar when i got my car and got a prime example but i know people who bought cheaper examples and had to replace engines, turbos, paint, rust etc etc.

Don't think you can skimp on the buy... it'll bite you in the arse. Even spend a little extra on inspections before you buy so you know exactly what you're in for.

It all depends on your budget/preference.

If you get an R32, like everyone has said, get one in good condition overall, my guess would say around the 25k mark for no dramas.

That said you can get cheap ones for 20k, but it'll hurt when it needs a full rebuild etc.

R33 GTR.......you'd have to spend at least 35k for a decent once.

So it comes down to budget and preference. IMO it's not worth spending another 10k for what is essentially the same car, if you can find an R32 in very good condition.

Personally, I don't like the R33 shape, so I went for the 32.

Although the 33s have much nice interiors and will have less wear and tear.

R33 vs R32 debate is all opinion based. Buy which one you like more! There is no wrong decision here!

R33's ATTESSA system seems to feed more power to the front wheels than the R32's, giving it less oversteer and potentially faster out of the corners. The more rear-wheel-drive-like handling and less weight makes the R32 feel more chuckable than the R33. The R32 would be likely quicker (just) in a straight line due to less weight for the same power. R33 would be more comfortable and more refined due to the larger size and modern erganomics. R32 arguably looks tougher than the R33. R33 would probably be slightly better for back seat passengers. R32 is much cheaper. R33 is much newer (and therefore potentially cheaper to run due to less things breaking from old age). R33 would be safer in a crash due to stiffer chassis and airbags.

Either car would make any performance enthusiast very happy!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...