Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My Jim Berry clutch is for sale. EASILY holding 265kW and still going strong. What no-one's mentioned is how cheap it is to have Jim rebuild them back to BRAND NEW SPEC.

$450 tops!

I want $550 ono for mine. Wont last long.

33 gtst.

Adrian

Wierd thought i posted this before but here it is again.

Direct Clutches in Albion Brisbane are one of australias premier places for clutches. Some of you might not remember the judge and his high hp cars, well he used direct exclusively.

And i dare say his cars where making more power and torque than 99% of users on here.

You will not be dissapointed :P

My Jim Berry clutch is for sale. EASILY holding 265kW and still going strong. What no-one's mentioned is how cheap it is to have Jim rebuild them back to BRAND NEW SPEC.

$450 tops!

I want $550 ono for mine. Wont last long.

33 gtst.

Adrian

ill take it alright.

  • 4 weeks later...
im quite interested in the amount of pressure (power) some of these clutches can hold up to.

im looking at putting out around 350kws atw and have been told ill need a tilton twin plate with custom flywheel. is this necessary??

You should call Jim. But he said mine should hold about 800hp at the fly fairly easy, its his superdooper single plate one. If you do all the conversions you still have head room. But just call Jim better to get it from the horses mouth.

But he said mine should hold about 800hp at the fly fairly easy

Jim usually rates HP on circuit applications so if you put slicks on the rears, rev it to 7000rpm & then dump it on a well-prepped track like Willowbank like I did, well....tore my carbonic down to the rivets. Ended up going to a NPC twin plate and it is bulletproof + only $200 to rebuild as opposed to $700 for a single plate.

Mine is ready to pick up from Jim now and i distinctly remember him asking me what i will be using it for even went down to percentages. EG:80% street, 15% circuit, 5% drag. So if you specify what you want to do with it he will give you what is necessary to do the job.

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32
Jim usually rates HP on circuit applications so if you put slicks on the rears, rev it to 7000rpm & then dump it on a well-prepped track like Willowbank like I did, well....tore my carbonic down to the rivets. Ended up going to a NPC twin plate and it is bulletproof + only $200 to rebuild as opposed to $700 for a single plate.

A mate with a 240awkw gtr got a heavy duty clutch (told it was good for 300awkw) off NPC and his first outing at the drags saw pretty aweful clutch slip.

I got jim's full monty, and upon asking him what it'll hold in my 26/30, he said it should see 1000+hp

Got a single plate Exedy sports tuff ceramic from western clutches was told itll hold 500-550 hp

Not happy at all done about 2000km and on the first launch it flared to 8000rpm all of 1st and 2nd gears had to back it off 2 times to make it grab in 2nd. In gears in dosnt flare.

I dont recomend to anyone this Shit clutch.Unless you feel like wasting $900 + the labour fees.

Edited by nismo 400 R N1

i live in NZ and shipping something the weight of a clutch probably wouldnt be worthwhile so i was just interested theoretically as various "experts" have such differing opinions.

I would ring Jim however the chance of me buying something off him is small and i dont want to waste his time.

There are second hand clutches galore around at the moment. If i was to buy a nismo twin plate how much approximately is the rebuild costs on something like that.

Cheers

Edited by SirRacer
Im thinking of gettin a clutch of jim.. however could someone please tell me how much labour would cost for installing this clutch?? cauz im in vic so i need to get it installed somewere else...

I've been quoted $250 labour to install a clutch into a GTR. Previously paid $300 for a GTSt (about 5 yrs ago). Cost of machining flywheel would be extra.

Both workshops in Melbourne.

  • 4 weeks later...

Ive had a Jim Berry "race clutch" in my 33 for the last 18 months and it has never slipped and was running 300rwkw. I know have closer to 400kw and even a 6500 launch and slicks still didnt slip. They are awesome.

My R34 GTT needs a new clutch... was going to go for a twin plate, but maybe Jim is the better option? I'm in NSW so can he build it all for me, then send it here and I get it installed by someone else? It's for an R34 GTT and I want it to be able to hold about 265rwkw, does anyone have a rough idea on how much it'd cost?

Im in Tassie and i got mine delivered with a standard flywheel for less than $1300 but that was a while ago. I did have a Nismo twin plate and that was hard to press in when this clutch from jim is nice and easy but grabs hard.

Ive had a Jim Berry "race clutch" in my 33 for the last 18 months and it has never slipped and was running 300rwkw. I know have closer to 400kw and even a 6500 launch and slicks still didnt slip. They are awesome.

how much was that?. i am awaiting a call from him tomorrow. mine made just over 700hp at engine and am wondering whether a single will do

cheers

Put me down as another happy customer of Jims, also got the full monty from him, have had it in the car 6 months now and haven't had any problems at all...

and as stated before alow at least an hour out of your day for the phonecall.. Jim loves a good chat

My Jim Berry clutch was so good it was as easy to drive in my 320kw gtr as my budget exedy was in my 185kw r33 gtst.

Just don't forget when ur getting a new clutch to spend the extra $500 and get a new flywheel with it :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
    • street use or race track, what hose size and why? what factors change with the hose size options ?   see most comon is an10. when you see most oem external coolers are closer to an12? does high volume oil pump like nitto need an12 or 10 be just fine
    • The rod I was moving left and right you can see looking from the passenger side floor up into the center console.  IMG_8095.mov
×
×
  • Create New...