Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi all,

Just got tuned by Dr Drift, now got 266rwkw. Still got standard clutch and tonight i got a taste of a slipping clutch. Jim's clutch's sound good, pretty keen to get one. I live in Tas and want to know if anyone has any suggestions who i should get to fit it (in tas), and any ideas how much the labour would be?

Cheers

Where abouts in tassie are you?? I work at chris colgrave automotive in launnie, i fitted WHITER33's clutch. The GTR's arent a 5 minute job to get the box out, you'll probably pay upwards of $350 just in labour but could be more. Jim usually supplies a rear main seal and input shaft seal aswell.

Edited by shane_180sx

Hmmm old m8 Jim sounds like he is def the man in the know...booked in a dyno tune today, as ive just had a couple more bolt on's added,

and was told to expect anywere from 330-350 awkw's.

and my clutch was slipping consistantly b4 the new mods, so i might give Jim a ring and see what he has to say and i'll post the results... post/prior, instulation/purchase or all of the above.

thanx for the advise guys :laugh::)

Edited by Borgs

hey im in WA and my clutch is blown. after reading everything about jims clutch my mind is made up.. want to get a lightened flywheel as well. can jim supply as well or any one no of a place in WA that can supply a decent flywheel??? and a reasanable price for install??? any suggestions

hey im in WA and my clutch is blown. after reading everything about jims clutch my mind is made up.. want to get a lightened flywheel as well. can jim supply as well or any one no of a place in WA that can supply a decent flywheel??? and a reasanable price for install??? any suggestions

my clutch and flywheel will be going to jim very soon. speak with him and u will get all of the infomation u need. he is gonna lighten the flywheel when he does my clutch up. he wants the clutch flywheel and all the crap with them. grease and all. totally agree with other ppl though, when u call, allow a good hour or more! :P

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm not too keen on flywheels that have been lightened as opposed to flywheels that are manufactured lighter than standard. I know of more than one that have gone bang. I don't think it's the skill of the person that lightens them though, more the imperfections in the original flywheel that come to the fore when it is lightened.

  • 1 month later...
I'm not too keen on flywheels that have been lightened as opposed to flywheels that are manufactured lighter than standard. I know of more than one that have gone bang. I don't think it's the skill of the person that lightens them though, more the imperfections in the original flywheel that come to the fore when it is lightened.

I need to decide whether to use Exedy light flywheel (currently in standard clutch) or the factory flywheel with my new Jim Berry Clutch?

Jim reckons light flywheel is bad for drag racing as it makes hard to control wheel spin.

Can anyone advice on this issue?

Hi Jason, what are you mostly be going to be using your car for? I remember you telling me about the setup you had and even though it wasn't a proper tune when you took me for a ride it was still pretty beasty.

I've read alot about clutches lately and some say that when upgrading to a clutch with a higher clamping pressure plate, you should get a stronger flywheel too. So if you don't want the problems of a light flywheel just get a heavier stronger flywheel .

Andy, it is still my everyday car so driveability is a priority. This Exedy light flywheel I have is only good for track work or drift I reckon, the revs drop too fast between gear changes and I dont think it gives any advantage across the quarter mile too.

I got the 3600lb clamping pressure Jim berry clutch on order, was thinking of using the factory flywheel on it. But now that you have mentioned it, how or where do I obtain a stronger flywheel? From what I have heard the Nissan factory flywheel is pretty tough being cast iron, which is whats required by ANDRA if you are running 10s passes, not that I will be doing that sort of time anytime soon but good to know nonetheless.

i have got a one of jims clutches in my car now. had it for a month and it is a very nice clutch to do my daily driving with. i got the full monty he does and is as light if not lighter then the stock clutch.. however grabs incredibly well. the lightness makes daily driving much more comfortable then have a brass button or something like that... i would def recomend

...the Nissan factory flywheel is pretty tough being cast iron, which is whats required by ANDRA if you are running 10s passes

I don't get this bit, Cast Iron can and does crack at high loads and high revs, billet steel is a safer way to go. As ben how safe a standard cast flywheel is

bit the bullet and bought a ORC pro carbon twin today on recommendation from a few D1GP mechanics so we will see how good or bad these puppies really are. Im lazy so i dropped it off at CREATD so we can use the hoist :)

Edited by URAS
bit the bullet and bought a ORC pro carbon twin today on recommendation from a few D1GP mechanics so we will see how good or bad these puppies really are. Im lazy so i dropped it off at CREATD so we can use the hoist :domokun:

fark that certainly woulda left a nice hole in the pocket! :domokun:

keep us informed of how it goes, and what u use the car for :)

P.S lazy kent :P

I got the 3600lb clamping pressure Jim berry clutch on order, was thinking of using the factory flywheel on it.

That's the same setup I had along with a 600bhp engine and 1 too many 8000rpm clutch dumps resulted in my flywheel ending up in the crowd. Hold off another month and buy yourself a new flywheel from japan and get them to fit it at the same time, won't cost much more. Sure 99.9% of people use a standard flywheel or even a standard lightened flywheel (like my new gtr has) but this is 1 problem that can be easily avoided.

which is whats required by ANDRA if you are running 10s passes, not that I will be doing that sort of time anytime soon but good to know nonetheless.

I was still only in the low 12's and it happened so I would use their rules as a guide.

That's the same setup I had along with a 600bhp engine and 1 too many 8000rpm clutch dumps resulted in my flywheel ending up in the crowd. Hold off another month and buy yourself a new flywheel from japan and get them to fit it at the same time, won't cost much more. Sure 99.9% of people use a standard flywheel or even a standard lightened flywheel (like my new gtr has) but this is 1 problem that can be easily avoided.

I was still only in the low 12's and it happened so I would use their rules as a guide.

Thanks for sharing, maybe I should stick to the Exedy light flywheel thats already in the car. Not sure of its material though, only says "lightweight aluminium and alloy metal" on their website. How does it compare to a billet steel one?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...