Jump to content
SAU Community

Spark Plugs

R33S2

By R33S2,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted
Just wondering if anybody has ever tried the spark plugs with dual electrodes (in the picture right) (do you have them in OZ at all?)

I use them in my motorcycle and it is definitely a huge improvement over the standard plugs.

Of course I don't know about the Skyline, but I will give it a try ..

Cheers from London :P

CLick here for the picture ...

dual - tri - quad spark they're all around on bigger machines. I just go with what works.

  • Replies 349
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

R33S2
R33S2

I did a search and came back with 100+ results soooo... I know there are three different types of plugs Copper Platinum Iridium I have heard of gaps from 0.8 to 1.1 Platinum and Iridium last lon

Busky2k
Busky2k

$3.50 AUD ea or there abouts.

R33S2
R33S2

I deleted the neo plug in first post, as I could not find it on the nkg website, I've asked before but does anyone know what they are using in the Neo?, the $650 is for NEW stock coils in factory box.

Posted Images

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
Hello there ...

BCPR6ES ->

BC = TREAD DIAMETER = 14mm

PR = PROTECTED INSULATOR + RESISTOR

6 = HEAT RANGE

E = THREAD LENGTH = 19mm

S = STANDARD SPARK PLUG TYPE

BKR6E-11 ->

BK = THREAD DIAMETER = 14mm

R = RESISTOR

6 = HEAT RANGE

E = THREAD LENGTH = 19mm

11 = SPARK GAP = 1.1mm

So the only difference between those 2 is that you have a protected insulator type (whatever this is?) and a standard gap as opposed to 1.1mm.

I hope this helps :mellow:

Cheers from London,

Andrew

the BK plug is shorter from the washer to the terminal (where the lead or coil clips on) than the BC plug by 2.5mm. so using the BC plug is going to make it sit up into the coilpacks a bit better and probably help with contact in the coils

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
Posted
the BK plug is shorter from the washer to the terminal (where the lead or coil clips on) than the BC plug by 2.5mm. so using the BC plug is going to make it sit up into the coilpacks a bit better and probably help with contact in the coils

Hi there ...

Thanks for the information .. I was already scratching my head why there is BC and BK when it's the same thread diameter anyway.

Cheers from London :iluvff:

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted (edited)
Just wondering if anybody has ever tried the spark plugs with dual electrodes (in the picture right) (do you have them in OZ at all?)

I use them in my motorcycle and it is definitely a huge improvement over the standard plugs.

Of course I don't know about the Skyline, but I will give it a try ..

Cheers from London :iluvff:

CLick here for the picture ...

The number of ground electrode doesn't improve the intensity of the spark, it only serve to prolong plug life by distributing the spark erosion among the 2 electrode. The key to stronger spark are smaller centre electrode provided by iridium or platinum, the smaller the centre electrode the better.

Ignition sequence

Edited by Trex101
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
Just wondering if anybody has ever tried the spark plugs with dual electrodes (in the picture right) (do you have them in OZ at all?)

I use them in my motorcycle and it is definitely a huge improvement over the standard plugs.

Of course I don't know about the Skyline, but I will give it a try ..

Cheers from London :iluvff:

CLick here for the picture ...

To be honest the less plug in the chamber the better, extra electrodes offer more places for hot spots to form (early detonation) i find with super 4's and the multi lectrode plugs that as the engines heats up under race type conditions the amount of total timing the engine will take is BELOW that of single electrode plugs.

My pick for high horsepower engines (these make power :D ) are the fine NON projected plugs (see below) or for general performance simple BCPR7E

post-34927-1247727778_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS
Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
Posted
The number of ground electrode doesn't improve the intensity of the spark, it only serve to prolong plug life by distributing the spark erosion among the 2 electrode. The key to stronger spark are smaller centre electrode provided by iridium or platinum, the smaller the centre electrode the better.

Ignition sequence

Hi,

But doesn't the area where the ignition actually happens increase due to the 2 electrodes?

?

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
Posted
To be honest the less plug in the chamber the better, extra electrodes offer more places for hot spots to form (early detonation) i find with super 4's and the multi lectrode plugs that as the engines heats up under race type conditions the amount of total timing the engine will take is BELOW that of single electrode plugs.

My pick for high horsepower engines (these make power :iluvff: ) are the fine NON projected plugs (see below) or for general performance simple BCPR7E

Hmmm .. interesting!

What do you think causes the heatup?

As for 'the less plug, the better' I agree.

I don't know how the combustion chamber (in the head) looks like in a Skyline.

Does the plug sit in some kind of recess or is it just 'dangling' in the middle?

Cheers,

Andrew

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
Posted
it only earths to one, not all. Therefore your just shiilding the spark with the other earths.

Single is best!

But if you look at the picture you see that both electrodes are on earth.

(Or did I get you wrong?)

The spark should therefore distribute evenly between the 3 electrodes...

(at least that was my idea about the whole thing)

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
But if you look at the picture you see that both electrodes are on earth.

(Or did I get you wrong?)

The spark should therefore distribute evenly between the 3 electrodes...

(at least that was my idea about the whole thing)

Contrary to popular belief, multi-ground does not mean multi-spark. The spark will only jump once at a time to the lowest resistance ground.

Multi-Ground

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
Posted
Contrary to popular belief, multi-ground does not mean multi-spark. The spark will only jump once at a time to the lowest resistance ground.

Multi-Ground

Hmmm ...

Quite interesting ...

But I think that depending on the ignition system there actually could be two sparks forming.

If the ignition voltage/energy is not very high there will be just one spark developing, and it this makes perfectly sense...

However, if there is a very energetic ignition system present, it's a whole different story.

I will check in a lab test which way the sparks go. :P

Thanks for the link! :P

  • 1 month later...
3LGODZILA Proficient

3LGODZILA

Posted
Posted

are the regular NGK plugs copper?

i bought some BCPR6E-11 plugs today (these must be the V-power ones coz they got that grove in the electrode) just wondering if these ARE copper plugs as the guy behind the counter said they're just regular plugs. btw they cost $17 for 6

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted

http://www.kaila.net/tl125/tl125ngkcode.html

BCPR6E & BCPR6ES are the same, its BCPR6EY which have the V in.

Normal spark plugs arent copper, they are nickel, but copper cored. If they were copper, there would be no market for iridiums (as copper is alot more conductive), copper itself couldnt handle the temp's in a combustion chamber.

  • 4 weeks later...
boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Ive just gone through reading the whole thread at the moment i have bcpre6e at 0.8 running 14 psi with spitfires no missing now im wanting to change plugs before my tune where the car will be running about 18-20psi and what ive gathered is to go with bcpr7e or bkr7e , will these plugs to the job? its for a r33 s2

badhairdave Proficient

badhairdave

Posted
Posted (edited)

bkr7es or bcpr7es. Get the std electrode, not the v groove as you can start to have spark break down at higher boost.

Can't say i've ever seen a v groove bcpr skit_31, though for the sake of argument you may want to look at the post above my previous one from a guy who has bought some and stated they have a V, and i have always bought bcpr6/7es's and they have always been standard electrode.

You can argue the vernacular on the copper vs nickel if you want, I'm not particularly fussed either way. When people say copper they are talking about regular old plugs

Edited by badhairdave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...