Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought a polished 'gtr' key from Nissan, which fits fine. The local locksmith not only cut 2 test keys to make sure it was all good (and she let me have them for nothing), but she wrote down what the code was, so I could get more cut if needed (Now that I have 4 keys, I don't think it will be an issue!).

I guess that means my code was missing too....

I bought a polished 'gtr' key from Nissan, which fits fine. The local locksmith not only cut 2 test keys to make sure it was all good (and she let me have them for nothing), but she wrote down what the code was, so I could get more cut if needed (Now that I have 4 keys, I don't think it will be an issue!).

I guess that means my code was missing too....

how much was the key??

I just brought normal Nissan keys - about 13 bucks from Nissan spare parts. I was thinking about getting the one with the keyless entry (because i've got one already) but at $365...no way i'm paying that much for that (well i'm getting my alarm installed next week - there's my keyless entry. lol)

where can i gat a programable remonte key and how much will one cost. i checked at my local nissan dealer. they quoted me $230 + $60 program fee. can i get one cheaper as this seems way too expensive.

thanks

$230 is about the cheapest ive heard, where was this quote from ?

You can code them yourself, plenty info on net, pm me if you cant find.

Edited by chook

When i lost my only genuine key i got the locksmith to "read the cuts" on my crappy backup (it was pretty bad - hard to turn on ignition and would not open the boot at all) - then cut it on a cheap key - went out and tested then got two genuine blanks done to code.

He also stamped the code on one of the keys for me.

  • 1 month later...

Anybody know any details about the actual key part of the whole assembly for series 2 standard key?

Especially can I use a standard key, chop it, and attach it as per the right-hand-side of the picture below (thereby using a second-hand key assembly with my own actual 'key' part which I can get copied). Is there any use to this? Anybody tried it?

post-32445-1205420765_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
It's got me wondering why the numbers have been ground off the keys, Maybe a security issue in Japan or something, if someone gets the number they can get a key cut, very strange.

Still got my numbers on keys for both the black S2 RS4 and the silver S1 RS4.

:rant:

  • 9 months later...
Hmm, oddly enough, the numbers on my keys have been ground off......

And mine 2 WHATS WITH THAT? i only got 1 key from the dealer but i got plain spares cut anywhear easily but car keys over here r very dear, 7-12 buks each, pretty f*ked price !

also yor remote alarm/central loking button remote is easy 2 get spares from an alarm installer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...