Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

currently been thinking about upgrading my HKS GT-RS turbo on my R33 GTST. im after the 320 rwkw make but dont want a laggy ass turbo. Currently making 260rwkw and bored of it.

What turbo's have you people seen make 320rwkw without too much lag (preferably HKS turbos). considering the HKS 3040 but not too sure on how it goes.

any help/dyno graphs will be appreciated.

I am wary of RB25’s with more than 300 rwkw,

been there

done that

didn’t enjoy it

at all.

The recently departed R34GTT had 265 rwkw using a GCG ball bearing high flow on the standard manifold. The usual stuff, R33GTR intercooler, alloy intercooler pipework, Power FC with boost control kit, Tomei Poncams, Pipercross filter in the standard airbox, Z32 AFM, full suspension kit, Michelins for the street, Yokohamas for the track and MT’s for the drags. It was nice, drive it everyday, city traffic, drag strip or circuit rain, hail or shine (well maybe not hail). It did an 11.9 at 120 mph in that trim, very reliable, gave us no grief whatsoever, I could always count on it to beat anything I came up against around town.

I was pushed into upgrading to a GT30 on a high rise HKS manifold, external wastegate, POD etc. It made 315 rwkw after much stuffing around, bits didn’t fit, cracked, bolts/nuts came loose, couldn’t drive it for weeks at a time etc. After many, many attempts finally got it to an 11.7 at 128 mph. It was a bitch to launch, too much wheelspin or bog down, lost boost on gear changes. It was crap in traffic, couldn’t drive it fast on the street, too peaky, lag, lag then wheelspin, lost many drags up to the speed limit and it the wet it was not at all pleasant. After a few months I decided this wasn’t for me.

So I put the standard manifold and high flow back on, sold the GT30 and bits, reloaded the 265 rwkw maps and since then I have driven it around most days. Much nicer car to live with and, I reckon, ultimately faster on the street. Now my big power engines are 3.1 litres and the project R33GTST, with its 2.5 litre, won’t be going over 270 rwkw.

I hope that has been of some use.

:P Cheers :(

I thought it was horse strength... which would basically mean horse power anyway..

haha. and i thought i was pedantic! Yeah litereally translates to horse strength, but in practice it means horse power. :rofl: but i stand corrected :D

The recently departed R34GTT had 265 rwkw using a GCG ball bearing high flow.... It did an 11.9 at 120 mph in that trim:) Cheers :(

Thats a very nice TS for 265rwkw!! I thought we needed closer to 300rwkw to get that kinda TS in an a Skyline?

Thanks for the input SK. i guess ill just stick with the HKS GT-RS. i am considering mounting the turbo up a little more and makeing it externally gated so it holds boost better as the internal gate gives me the shits.

i know the power increase will be minimal but does it saound like an okay idea?

Thanks for the input SK. i guess ill just stick with the HKS GT-RS. i am considering mounting the turbo up a little more and makeing it externally gated so it holds boost better as the internal gate gives me the shits.

i know the power increase will be minimal but does it saound like an okay idea?

Hi Croat,

I would not high mount any turbo if I could avoid it. Granted that the boost control may be more accurate with an external gate but the heat problems and hassles you get with high mounting turbos in my opinion is just not worth it.

Once high mounted people commonly have problems with the abs unit over heating (if you have one) and everything else overheating because the heat is stuck under the bonnet let the hassles you will have if a cop sees your turbo high mounted.

Instead of high mounting I would be tempted to get a really good dual solenoid boost controller and a split dump pipe if you don't already have them both.

Just my thoughts. Good luck and I hope it helps a little. :)

Edited by nfi
I'd agree. Much over 300rwkw and its gonna be peaky.

My setup (in my opinion) with the 600hp GT30 was as late as i would want a turbo to come on (4200/4500rpm/17psi)

With a redline of high 7000's thats not the "greatest"

Hence why im RB26, aiming for 330rwkw but rather than 4500rpm, it'll be more like 3500rpm, with a MUCH broader span of power, with 240rwkw in before 3000rpm (where rb25 was more like 150rwkw) based on results of other cars with a setup similar to me

Excuse my ignorance but why is the rb26 abe to produce so much more power down low compared to the rb25. Obviously it has the extra 100ml capacity but is that enough to get such a large increase in power in the low rev range? Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...