Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 117
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Jeeepers.. that's not good..

anyways - yeah what are the KKR's like.. problem is no-one has had them on for probably more than 6months.. what's gonna happen in 2 years?.. is it gonna have an issue or still be going 100%..

could be a case of "you get what you pay for"..

KKR - Otomoto - www.otomoto.com.au

KKK - Blitz

Monsta Everything - All Ebay specials (special as in half of em never last so it a lottery)

There is one "interesting" result here about the KKR-480:

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=44524.0

As you'll see i've already alluded to the fact that the dyno figure is "interesting".

300rwkw on stock injectors and a 480hp turbo/15psi

Anyway, take it was you will, ive read no information to lead me to the fact the KKR/Otomoto turbos are ball bearing.

Meaning they are just bush bearing, and no different in performance (which wasnt the best) to sh|tty bush T04's of the years gone by.

Maybe slight wheel changes, but it'll never compare to a Garrett/HKS/Precision etc etc

My personal thoughts on it all:

1) If your getting an Ebay turbo beware, buy at your own risk as they fail often. Just because "someones" works, does not mean yours will. There is no warranty despite what they say

2) They are cheap, and cheap for a reason... to make a quality turbo costs money, so pay the extra 600-900 and get a proper turbo. If one fails, its costs you another 800, then you could have purchased a turbo that would give you car no down time, and better performance

and?

That link provides no spec of the car, not even which turbo is being used, or what motor

No dyno charts to give an indication of response

Can you provide it or something dude? :cheers:

We need more detail before you can say "someone is using it" doesnt say a lot for a technical discussion like this which goes into more depth at times

Hello Scott,

The KKR-480 is $899. We also have a dump pipe available to suit the RB25 for $149 (suits standard or aftermarket front pipes).

To fit it on an RB25 you need to rotate the compressor housing and actuator to point the right way. The actuator rod also needs to be bent and adjusted to suit, while the compressor housing needs around 2mm ground off at one point, where it is too close to the exhaust manifold. You will also need a different bolt for the oil feed and a 2.75-inch V-band clamp. We have a mobile mechanic in Sydney who does the complete installation for $520 including the clamp.

We recently fitted the KKR-480 to an RB24, which made 256kW at the wheels on 1.35bar boost.

Here are some more specifications:

KKR480

T3 twin-port type flange (will suit normal T3 flange also)

Oil-cooled, large turbine housing (around 1.1)

Approx 480hp

Compressor side (similar sizing to smallest HKS GT3037)

Compressor inlet pipe 70mm

Compressor outlet pipe 50mm

Compressor wheel inner diameter 53mm

Compressor wheel outer diameter 76.5mm

12 blades, six 22mm high, six 16mm high

Turbine side

25mm flap-type internal wastegate

71/79mm V-band flange (inner outlet diameter 63.5mm)

Turbine wheel inner diameter 56mm (similar to HKS 2835R)

Turbine wheel outer diameter 73mm (similar to HKS T04R)

10 blades, 28.5mm high at tips

Ben Ellis

OTOMOTO Pty Ltd

45 Mary Pde Rydalmere NSW 2116

Ph. (02) 9898 1655

Fx. (02) 9898 1254

www.otomoto.com.au

On Friday, November 18, 2005, at 09:48 AM, scott andrew wrote:

and yes it is a bush bearing

Dear son of rajab...

Bend the actuator

Shave 2mm off the comp housing

New bolt for the Oil

V-band clamp

And dump to suit

As quoted $520 to install, plus the dump of $149

Suddenly the price is $1586, if you cant DIY

For less than $300 more... bolt on, no worries...

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod18.htm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...