Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

My alarm is farked so I'll be driving around without an alarm for next few weeks until I can put one in

I might be parking in some dodgey places and thought about removing a fuse in the mean time after I park the car.

Question is which fuse is the best to pull out and where is it? I prefer removing a blade fuse and not the type that is in its own box because its easier to carry around and keep spare blade fuses

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108343-removing-fuse-to-disable-car/
Share on other sites

Many fuses can be pulled out to disable car. Fuel pump, starter, ign etc. The one i used before i had an alarm installed was the ignition fuse from the fuse box in the engine bay.

A good idea when you decide which fuse to pull would be to replace the fuse you pull with a blown fuse. That way it is not obvious to the theif which fuse to replace.

My experience has generally been that they don't want the car, they only want what's in it.

Having an alarm didn't prevent them sitting inside and stealing the radio; so now I have installed one of those Jayco Screecher alarms (110dB @ 2kHz) - it certainly reminds them that they haven't been invited into the car.

Pulling a fuse is probably easier than disconnecting the AFM... and pulling the ignition or starter would give the same result as an immobiliser... so I figure most theives would assume that there is an immobiliser and just go to town ripping anything out of the car that they can.

Might want to wire up a flashing LED or something in the meanwhile. I feel much more comfortable knowing that my alarm has a flashing LED. Kinda deters theives from even bothering in the first place I guess.

What about one of those power inverters that give you 240v out of a 12v source? Rig that up to parts of the car that are metal but not grounded...

Might be better suited for electifying your wipers. No more parking tickets! ;o)

(jk people... don't do this)

I'll go with arh32, i have a burnt fuse I'll use to swap with my fuel pump fuse in the mean time, i think thats a great idea.
So good that now every bloody car thief who frequents these forums knows to carry around a spare fuse as the first remedy to pinch a car that won't start. (which is why I have never publicly announced my secret anti-theft weapon).
I feel much more comfortable knowing that my alarm has a flashing LED. Kinda deters theives from even bothering in the first place I guess.
You obviously didn't read my previous post - thieves could care less about flashing red LEDs.
Guest Xinhua
or hook up a switch to it?

im hooking up a kill switch on my car.

Thats what i did for my car mate.. theres a switch under my floorpanel.. very hidden.. can't start the car without pushing the switch.. you can put the key in and turn.. nothing will happen.. Works very well.. good luck

Thats what i did for my car mate.. theres a switch under my floorpanel.. very hidden.. can't start the car without pushing the switch.. you can put the key in and turn.. nothing will happen.. Works very well.. good luck

probably the best example ive seen of someone asking to get their car stolen.

saying youve got a kill switch - ok.

giving the exact location.... that shits just not smart dude.

I think it's good to flood the topic with information. The more people that give ideas, the more variety people can use, and any thief reading through will have to remember 20 different places for 50 different cars. He's not going to go through each and every one to find the "trick" to stealing it. On the other hand if we only heard about the blown fuse one, anyone without an alarm and without any better ideas would probably do it, and the thief would be able to casually check every car for blown fuses and probably get a couple easily.

It's probably best to use a combination of things. For example, pull a fuse as well as putting a kill switch in, or 2 kill switches in different areas. I've got 3 different things - club lock, alarm with starter kill, a separate 3 point immobiliser, and a kill switch. Sure you can always tow it but if the thief is determined nothing will stop him. The best defence I've found though is to not park it in dodgy areas.

Also a good idea for the kill switch is to not necessarily have it as one of those metal toggle switches. Something that doesn't seem like a switch to the touch, like a you press. A friend has a "toggle" button which you can push up or down for on/off. If you were feeling around without knowing about it you probably wouldn't even notice it, it would feel like one of those plastic screws you use for keeping the kick panel on.

a car i've driven before had a good idea. it was some kind of circuit linked to the starter. you had to complete the circuit to use the starter. you had to be touching the key with your right hand, and with your left reach down to a screw that holds on the left kick panel (side of center console) this would complete the circuit and allow you to start the car. quite a good one.

Well yes it can be towed. But opportunistic car thives dont have tow trucks at disposal.

As mentioned, if they really want your car they will get it.

A lot of my friends have kill switches and they are in some ingenius places, well hidden places and right in front of you places. Like using one of the factories blank switches and putting a switch there as the kill switch with "demister" for example. Multiple horn button steering wheels with one of the buttons used to complete the starter circuit. Another mate has a buggered electric aerial and you have to press the aerial up button to start.

But to reiterate what I said it can still go missing.

Mechanics are a good place where your guard is let down. You might of been there for 10 years and trust the guy with your life but his apprentice who started a week ago might need to move the car and ask "how do I start this thing". Then cut your key during his lunch break and....you get the idea.

Hey since you guys are tellling everyone your secrets about wiring and fuses now we have to do all of them at once so they cant guess which one it is! Or take the engine out with a crane and put it in our lunch box you morons!

Shut the f**k up and youse your brains!

Not everyone on these sites regardless if they own a skyline is trustwrthy!

I knew of a guy with a vl turbo with a rb25det and everyone of the performance parts he had on the car were ripped off other cars!

f**ks sake

LoL sorry. I didnt ask for any secrets

I actually pulled the fuel pump fuse out a few times in the past week and put a blown one in when going out, the peace of mind was more than worh it. I cant watch a movie knowing the car is not secured.

I got a very decent alarm installed on Sunday, I wont say what it is!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll want to have the block drilled and tapped to suit 1/2in head studs and the head for the same. How much power do you intend to make?
    • Sorry for resurrecting an oldish thread Not much has happened in the past year since the last update. The car did another 1000 miles or so and failed the MOT for the first time in October (failed on tyres which had been advised for a couple of years) In October the car got put up for sale and was removed in November due to no interest, being so close to christmas it was to be expected. The roads were dry in February so I decided to tax it early and get the new tyres fitted.   Fast forward to April, I got someone in to give the car a good clean after sitting for the winter.                                 The car got re-advertised and today (Saturday 3rd May) the car sold. The new owner is planning a GTR conversion at some point and a respray in the same pearl white. It's bitter sweet, it's a shame to have the car sit there for half the year and then only do 1000 miles. The kids are growing too quick and space in the back is getting limited. It's been a great 6.5 years of ownership
    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
×
×
  • Create New...