Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

My alarm is farked so I'll be driving around without an alarm for next few weeks until I can put one in

I might be parking in some dodgey places and thought about removing a fuse in the mean time after I park the car.

Question is which fuse is the best to pull out and where is it? I prefer removing a blade fuse and not the type that is in its own box because its easier to carry around and keep spare blade fuses

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108343-removing-fuse-to-disable-car/
Share on other sites

Many fuses can be pulled out to disable car. Fuel pump, starter, ign etc. The one i used before i had an alarm installed was the ignition fuse from the fuse box in the engine bay.

A good idea when you decide which fuse to pull would be to replace the fuse you pull with a blown fuse. That way it is not obvious to the theif which fuse to replace.

My experience has generally been that they don't want the car, they only want what's in it.

Having an alarm didn't prevent them sitting inside and stealing the radio; so now I have installed one of those Jayco Screecher alarms (110dB @ 2kHz) - it certainly reminds them that they haven't been invited into the car.

Pulling a fuse is probably easier than disconnecting the AFM... and pulling the ignition or starter would give the same result as an immobiliser... so I figure most theives would assume that there is an immobiliser and just go to town ripping anything out of the car that they can.

Might want to wire up a flashing LED or something in the meanwhile. I feel much more comfortable knowing that my alarm has a flashing LED. Kinda deters theives from even bothering in the first place I guess.

What about one of those power inverters that give you 240v out of a 12v source? Rig that up to parts of the car that are metal but not grounded...

Might be better suited for electifying your wipers. No more parking tickets! ;o)

(jk people... don't do this)

I'll go with arh32, i have a burnt fuse I'll use to swap with my fuel pump fuse in the mean time, i think thats a great idea.
So good that now every bloody car thief who frequents these forums knows to carry around a spare fuse as the first remedy to pinch a car that won't start. (which is why I have never publicly announced my secret anti-theft weapon).
I feel much more comfortable knowing that my alarm has a flashing LED. Kinda deters theives from even bothering in the first place I guess.
You obviously didn't read my previous post - thieves could care less about flashing red LEDs.
Guest Xinhua
or hook up a switch to it?

im hooking up a kill switch on my car.

Thats what i did for my car mate.. theres a switch under my floorpanel.. very hidden.. can't start the car without pushing the switch.. you can put the key in and turn.. nothing will happen.. Works very well.. good luck

Thats what i did for my car mate.. theres a switch under my floorpanel.. very hidden.. can't start the car without pushing the switch.. you can put the key in and turn.. nothing will happen.. Works very well.. good luck

probably the best example ive seen of someone asking to get their car stolen.

saying youve got a kill switch - ok.

giving the exact location.... that shits just not smart dude.

I think it's good to flood the topic with information. The more people that give ideas, the more variety people can use, and any thief reading through will have to remember 20 different places for 50 different cars. He's not going to go through each and every one to find the "trick" to stealing it. On the other hand if we only heard about the blown fuse one, anyone without an alarm and without any better ideas would probably do it, and the thief would be able to casually check every car for blown fuses and probably get a couple easily.

It's probably best to use a combination of things. For example, pull a fuse as well as putting a kill switch in, or 2 kill switches in different areas. I've got 3 different things - club lock, alarm with starter kill, a separate 3 point immobiliser, and a kill switch. Sure you can always tow it but if the thief is determined nothing will stop him. The best defence I've found though is to not park it in dodgy areas.

Also a good idea for the kill switch is to not necessarily have it as one of those metal toggle switches. Something that doesn't seem like a switch to the touch, like a you press. A friend has a "toggle" button which you can push up or down for on/off. If you were feeling around without knowing about it you probably wouldn't even notice it, it would feel like one of those plastic screws you use for keeping the kick panel on.

a car i've driven before had a good idea. it was some kind of circuit linked to the starter. you had to complete the circuit to use the starter. you had to be touching the key with your right hand, and with your left reach down to a screw that holds on the left kick panel (side of center console) this would complete the circuit and allow you to start the car. quite a good one.

Well yes it can be towed. But opportunistic car thives dont have tow trucks at disposal.

As mentioned, if they really want your car they will get it.

A lot of my friends have kill switches and they are in some ingenius places, well hidden places and right in front of you places. Like using one of the factories blank switches and putting a switch there as the kill switch with "demister" for example. Multiple horn button steering wheels with one of the buttons used to complete the starter circuit. Another mate has a buggered electric aerial and you have to press the aerial up button to start.

But to reiterate what I said it can still go missing.

Mechanics are a good place where your guard is let down. You might of been there for 10 years and trust the guy with your life but his apprentice who started a week ago might need to move the car and ask "how do I start this thing". Then cut your key during his lunch break and....you get the idea.

Hey since you guys are tellling everyone your secrets about wiring and fuses now we have to do all of them at once so they cant guess which one it is! Or take the engine out with a crane and put it in our lunch box you morons!

Shut the f**k up and youse your brains!

Not everyone on these sites regardless if they own a skyline is trustwrthy!

I knew of a guy with a vl turbo with a rb25det and everyone of the performance parts he had on the car were ripped off other cars!

f**ks sake

LoL sorry. I didnt ask for any secrets

I actually pulled the fuel pump fuse out a few times in the past week and put a blown one in when going out, the peace of mind was more than worh it. I cant watch a movie knowing the car is not secured.

I got a very decent alarm installed on Sunday, I wont say what it is!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if it still spikes, just for now, turn off VCT completely by disabling it OR simply unplug the solenoid. Just to rule out excessive exhaust pressure. I recall a video from Motive DVD about a decade ago, where Hawkins original single Garrett GTX3582 or so turbo had boost control issues sub 1.4bar of boost as well.   Food for thought? Is there anyway you can peg the WG completely open and/or dodgily not plumb it back into your exhaust system for testing purposes?
    • I will endeavour to give it a crack sooner or later. I have the wastegate apart at the moment so I'll replace it with a smaller spring just to see what it does and if I have to go back then so be it.   If it spikes to 23 but can then be controlled back to 20, then the gate must not be 100% open... So if it's not 100% open then why can't it drop the boost even further than 20psi (I understand it's not linear). What a headache this whole thing is.
    • Either the WG is reaching full opening, or it is not. The "it is not" case could only occur if there was not enough time available to swing the valve fully open during that boost event. I would consider that to be unlikely, as this is a commercial product that is in use elsewhere, so it really should work. But in your case, because there is definitely SOMETHING wrong, it should not be assumed that things like that are working as they should. You should put a video camera where it can see the actuator (if at all possible) during a run to see how far it is moving.
    • I think you're mostly on the ball there. With the straight gate, I suspect the weight of the spring will determine how quickly the gate can close, when not run with active pressure drive on both sides of the diaphragm. Otherwise, with drive on both sides of the diaphragm, you could almost go without a spring at all, only needing one to make sure that the thing was actually closed while completely off boost and not having pressure available to drive it closed. Butterfly valves have mostly symmetric loading when there is flow going through them, meaning that the gas hitting the upstream part of the blade is balanced by the gas hitting the downstream part of the blade, which means you don't need actuator torque to overcome any non-symmetric flow induced loads. But the gas flow does impart a purely normal load against the shaft, which transfers into the bush/bearing at each end of the shaft and does increase the torque required to make the shaft turn. Only a little, but it is there. I have no feeling for the amount of force involved in a WG application, but it certainly could make an argument for a decent spring weight being required. But all of this is just peripheral to the actual problem here.
    • The answer to this would be I followed the documentation from Turbosmart which said each spring pressure could achieve a maximum of 5x it's rated pressure so the included smallest spring being the 6psi had a range up to 30psi. I went with the 12 because I figured it'd likely hover around 15psi as a base pressure however I was obviously wrong.    I have a log here that I'll dig out that is purely wastegate and no Mac valve controlling anything.   If it can't hold anywhere near 12psi, does that mean the straight gate is virtually wide open during a run? Or am I thinking about this all wrong.   I could Tee Piece into the cooler pipe pre intercooler where the wastegate gets its feed, and send that to the ecu and see how that reads, I just don't have a spare pressure sensor currently that's all.
×
×
  • Create New...