Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

My alarm is farked so I'll be driving around without an alarm for next few weeks until I can put one in

I might be parking in some dodgey places and thought about removing a fuse in the mean time after I park the car.

Question is which fuse is the best to pull out and where is it? I prefer removing a blade fuse and not the type that is in its own box because its easier to carry around and keep spare blade fuses

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108343-removing-fuse-to-disable-car/
Share on other sites

Many fuses can be pulled out to disable car. Fuel pump, starter, ign etc. The one i used before i had an alarm installed was the ignition fuse from the fuse box in the engine bay.

A good idea when you decide which fuse to pull would be to replace the fuse you pull with a blown fuse. That way it is not obvious to the theif which fuse to replace.

My experience has generally been that they don't want the car, they only want what's in it.

Having an alarm didn't prevent them sitting inside and stealing the radio; so now I have installed one of those Jayco Screecher alarms (110dB @ 2kHz) - it certainly reminds them that they haven't been invited into the car.

Pulling a fuse is probably easier than disconnecting the AFM... and pulling the ignition or starter would give the same result as an immobiliser... so I figure most theives would assume that there is an immobiliser and just go to town ripping anything out of the car that they can.

Might want to wire up a flashing LED or something in the meanwhile. I feel much more comfortable knowing that my alarm has a flashing LED. Kinda deters theives from even bothering in the first place I guess.

What about one of those power inverters that give you 240v out of a 12v source? Rig that up to parts of the car that are metal but not grounded...

Might be better suited for electifying your wipers. No more parking tickets! ;o)

(jk people... don't do this)

I'll go with arh32, i have a burnt fuse I'll use to swap with my fuel pump fuse in the mean time, i think thats a great idea.
So good that now every bloody car thief who frequents these forums knows to carry around a spare fuse as the first remedy to pinch a car that won't start. (which is why I have never publicly announced my secret anti-theft weapon).
I feel much more comfortable knowing that my alarm has a flashing LED. Kinda deters theives from even bothering in the first place I guess.
You obviously didn't read my previous post - thieves could care less about flashing red LEDs.
Guest Xinhua
or hook up a switch to it?

im hooking up a kill switch on my car.

Thats what i did for my car mate.. theres a switch under my floorpanel.. very hidden.. can't start the car without pushing the switch.. you can put the key in and turn.. nothing will happen.. Works very well.. good luck

Thats what i did for my car mate.. theres a switch under my floorpanel.. very hidden.. can't start the car without pushing the switch.. you can put the key in and turn.. nothing will happen.. Works very well.. good luck

probably the best example ive seen of someone asking to get their car stolen.

saying youve got a kill switch - ok.

giving the exact location.... that shits just not smart dude.

I think it's good to flood the topic with information. The more people that give ideas, the more variety people can use, and any thief reading through will have to remember 20 different places for 50 different cars. He's not going to go through each and every one to find the "trick" to stealing it. On the other hand if we only heard about the blown fuse one, anyone without an alarm and without any better ideas would probably do it, and the thief would be able to casually check every car for blown fuses and probably get a couple easily.

It's probably best to use a combination of things. For example, pull a fuse as well as putting a kill switch in, or 2 kill switches in different areas. I've got 3 different things - club lock, alarm with starter kill, a separate 3 point immobiliser, and a kill switch. Sure you can always tow it but if the thief is determined nothing will stop him. The best defence I've found though is to not park it in dodgy areas.

Also a good idea for the kill switch is to not necessarily have it as one of those metal toggle switches. Something that doesn't seem like a switch to the touch, like a you press. A friend has a "toggle" button which you can push up or down for on/off. If you were feeling around without knowing about it you probably wouldn't even notice it, it would feel like one of those plastic screws you use for keeping the kick panel on.

a car i've driven before had a good idea. it was some kind of circuit linked to the starter. you had to complete the circuit to use the starter. you had to be touching the key with your right hand, and with your left reach down to a screw that holds on the left kick panel (side of center console) this would complete the circuit and allow you to start the car. quite a good one.

Well yes it can be towed. But opportunistic car thives dont have tow trucks at disposal.

As mentioned, if they really want your car they will get it.

A lot of my friends have kill switches and they are in some ingenius places, well hidden places and right in front of you places. Like using one of the factories blank switches and putting a switch there as the kill switch with "demister" for example. Multiple horn button steering wheels with one of the buttons used to complete the starter circuit. Another mate has a buggered electric aerial and you have to press the aerial up button to start.

But to reiterate what I said it can still go missing.

Mechanics are a good place where your guard is let down. You might of been there for 10 years and trust the guy with your life but his apprentice who started a week ago might need to move the car and ask "how do I start this thing". Then cut your key during his lunch break and....you get the idea.

Hey since you guys are tellling everyone your secrets about wiring and fuses now we have to do all of them at once so they cant guess which one it is! Or take the engine out with a crane and put it in our lunch box you morons!

Shut the f**k up and youse your brains!

Not everyone on these sites regardless if they own a skyline is trustwrthy!

I knew of a guy with a vl turbo with a rb25det and everyone of the performance parts he had on the car were ripped off other cars!

f**ks sake

LoL sorry. I didnt ask for any secrets

I actually pulled the fuel pump fuse out a few times in the past week and put a blown one in when going out, the peace of mind was more than worh it. I cant watch a movie knowing the car is not secured.

I got a very decent alarm installed on Sunday, I wont say what it is!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.
    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
×
×
  • Create New...