Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys iam close to buying a ECU for my R33 GTST and i was wondering what brand ECU is best and can you buy a plug in ECU for a auto skyline or do i have to get a wire in unit because i have asked heaps of people and like it normally is everyone's got a differant idea, If you can help me it would be much appreciated

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109061-what-ecu-is-best-for-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

if you do a search you will find a shit load of threads all stating that :

no after market full replacement ecu works properly with the auto , although some claim they do , they dont

this limits you to interceptor type devices like the safc II or emanage

well an apexi isnt a wire in for a start

i think you should search

Hey man i was told that i couldn't buy an apexi plug in because my car was an auto so i naturaly thought it was a wire in unit sorry about that iam new to all this

with an auto You might have to run a Piggy back computer

or you can run a

Hydra EMS computer

which adaps the auto box funcitions into it

Wat is the damage and have you seen them work on an auto

james

  • 4 years later...

Lol dood i dont think people have had a good read at this topic. Mate unfortunatley you cannot use a apexi power FC because it doesnt support automatic gearbox intergration. You could try wolf3d im stuck in this situo as well. Too head you in the right track you will have to have a piggy back ecu or Use another ecu for Fuel and Ignition and use the standard ecu to run everything else. Also try a nistune supplier http://www.nistune.com/workshops.html

mythbusters ahoy

and blast from the past - beyond 2000

you cannot (well shouldn't) use most stand alone ECU's on ECR33 Auto

this is because the standard ECU has all the logic for gearchange control

if you replace this ECU with a standalone that is a MANUAL ECU (that is, does NOT support the ECR33 AUTO box) then it assumes manual

it wont back out timing on gear change, which results in harsh/jerky gearchanges and the changes put stress on the box

this "gotcha" applies to most stand alone ECU's, be it Apexi, HKS, Motec, Autronic, Wolf etc etc etc

your best option is nistune or emanage or remap or safc

all of these options keep the stock ecu, and retain the factory gearbox logic

users have insisted that powerfc (and other stand alone ecu's) etc work on AUTO

and the truth it, it does work, you can start the car

you can drive, you can boost it etc

but the changes will be harsh and youll risk the box

if you are OK with that, go for it, but you know the risks/results

this "gotcha" only applies to ECR33 auto where the gearbox is electronic control logic and needs the main ecu to do the logic change for it

cars such as vl turbo, toyota either have seperate ECU control for autobox or mechnical (vl turbo)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Does any of you guys have instagram pages for your builds? Keen to see some Aussie builds. I still can't figure out how to post photos in here.
    • That awesome thanks for that. 
    • You can Remote any of these VR30..globally  Check: AMS Performance | Racebox | Sonic Tune | Soho | Z Motorsports | Specialty Z    Performance Parts | AMS | Z Motorsports | Boosted 6 |    Exhaust | Fast Intentions | ARK | MBRP Motordyne | Borla    There is someone in Sydney with 650whp   I am at 430whp without flex fuel, but FBO & Flex-fuel will push you to 500whp!!  
×
×
  • Create New...