Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I understand everything about this concept but I have never seen an RB26 motor out of the bay before...does anyone have any pictures of where these oil feeds are.....and how do you differentiate between which is the 1st feed and 2nd so as not to get confused aboiut which to block and which to restrict?

Thanks

I wounder how this effects oil pressure just by blocking the rear orifice off.

cheers

Makes no difference, the pressure relief valve controls the oil pressure.

:dry: cheers :thumbsup:

I dont really want to pull a RB26 apart just to do these mods, especially given its young age (1999) but i dont want to sit back and wait for it to go 'BANG' while im at Mallala.

Would a much larger sump with the appropriate baffles suffice for the occasional track day or does the majority of oil remain in the head regardless of sump volume???

snake you pretty much have to pull the engine to put the baffled sump in, the head is only a few bolts further to go....and once thats off why not do new rings bearings and balancing as well?

Ok Guys...

On sunday we started pulling the engine out to do

1: restrictor

2: clutch

3: Engine mount

4: look for any issues

5: change lifters

We took out the engine and box at the same time.

I have got pictures here for everyone to look at on how to put the restrictors in. its pretty easy and does work!!!! before i used to get lots of oil escaping from the CATCH can. ie the catch can was not working. now nothing comes out of the catch can. All i did was block the front oil feed and put a tomei 1.5mm restrictor in the rear feed (as per sydney kids advice) people would tell me my engine was rooted because its got lots of blow by rah rah rah so i aimed to prove them wrong.

To block one of the oil feeds we screwed a screw into the 1.8mm (stock rb30 restrictor) and then pulled it out. once it was out we realised that the screw was stuck in there so we just cut it and put it back in. (See pic)

As for the other one I purchased the 1.5 mm restrictor from hi octane (the tomei one for $17 delivered) and bashed the old restrictor down and bashed this one ontop. (see pics)

for the million $$ question does it make a difference in oil pressure???.

YES.. it does.. BUT only when the engine is cold. before the oil pressure gauge would go up to 3 quarters full on cold startup. Now it goes nearly up to the last line but as soon as the engine warms up it goes back to normal and NO oil pressure increase has been noticed at all.

No difference in lifter noise has been noticed.

YES it did fix my problem (well SO FAR. no oil has escaped from the catch can when before it would escape from catch can.)

I built this RB30DET back in 2004 before anyone knew about the oil issue and how to fix it - so thanks to sydney kids help i have been able to fix this problem.

Its very easy to put the restrictors in and i reccomend that you do this on your rb30det conversion.

See pics.

I hope this helps everyone - heaps of pics to look at.. I am really stoaked my clutch works properly now !!! :mellow:

post-1240-1149091392.jpg

post-1240-1149091499.jpg

post-1240-1149091536.jpg

post-1240-1149091586.jpg

post-1240-1149091731.jpg

post-1240-1149091847.jpg

post-1240-1149091927.jpg

post-1240-1149092020.jpg

post-1240-1149092134.jpg

post-1240-1149092258.jpg

post-1240-1149092311.jpg

post-1240-1149092396.jpg

post-1240-1149092456.jpg

post-1240-1149092564.jpg

post-1240-1149092707.jpg

post-1240-1149092771.jpg

post-1240-1149092946.jpg

post-1240-1149093006.jpg

post-1240-1149093102.jpg

post-1240-1149093285.jpg

Edited by Guilt-Toy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...