Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

did you fit a crank collar to your rb30 bottom end, iirc the rb30 has the same short snout issues with the oil pump drive as the early rb26...

might have caused pump failure.

I am pretty sure my oil pump has been screwed for the last 6 months causing me these issues. Getting a GTR pump and hopefully installing it this weekend.

we get the same lifter noise occassionally when the revs drop right down to a crazy low rpm, like 600 or less. But it clears when oil pressure returns to normal. So a lack of pressure will cause the lifters to tick abit. There might have been no problem with them originally, as in not bad enough to replace but its infact your oil pump that needs seeing to.

Yes i think its pretty much a deadset certainty that you need the collar to avoid the oil pump cracking issue.

Edited by r33_racer

pulled down the engine and found that every piston had all the rings broken and in pieces except for one piston. Most of the bearings were scored and number 6 had spun and welded itself to the rod.

So its rebuild time. not going to bother with stock bottom ends anymore. waste of time

Guilt Toy..

Any idea why the bottom end had such a catastrophic failure?

There must be a reason, not just because it was a stock bottom end.

If number 6 had spun... Usually that's a sign of rod bolt stretch from my understanding?

What rings are you going to look at this time around? King have a good rep with the rb30's. However its a must they run the HP bimetal bearings as trimetals are crap in a performance application.

Apparently my style of driving is enough to kill any engine. I like to hit the rev limiter and i like to hit it hard. I like to boost the engine hard on weekends.

Its got 350rwhp... so the stock bottom end was no up to the task ?? I am being forced to upgrade to forgies so this does not happen in the future but i dont know why i need forgies... stock should be enough but in this case it could not handle my style of driving

forgot to mention that i do 140ks a day in the car to drive to work and back and I aint shy on kickin people's ass

The car went hard even though it had the noise.. what cracks me up is that it went that good with a totally screwed engine.. so thumbs up all round - guess i gotta look on the bright side of the situation and build a tough engine this time.

Guilt Toy..

Any idea why the bottom end had such a catastrophic failure?

There must be a reason, not just because it was a stock bottom end.

If number 6 had spun... Usually that's a sign of rod bolt stretch from my understanding?

Edited by Guilt-Toy

A lot of the rb30 blokes are running precision hypereutectic pistons with either nissan or king bearings, some run acl.

Apparently the acll hypereutectic pistons are shiet. :laugh:

There's a bloke here on sau s3girl, he's been pushing 373rwkw through his rb30 running std bearings, bolts and hypereutectic pistons with a GT40 bolted on the side for quite some time, I believe rev cut is around 7k.

make one yourself!

where can i buy a 1 mm restricter? why don't all the big brands sell restricters that size. how much bigger should i drill out the oil drainn holes in the block and head?

Sorry for the bad news Guilt Toy :laugh: . Keep in mind that a failed oil pump will kill any engine even if it has forgies and good rods/bearings etc. My 25/30 vct engine has no restrictors but one oil feed blocked off. It had a set of new(apprently) lifters put in during the build but it tics quite loudly on one cyclinder ( I think only one) for a few seconds after start up..... I suppose I will have to try changing the lifters first but its super pricey for new ones and using s/h ones could be dodgy and doubling the job if they are stuffed too! In the past for me , s/h lifters have manage to suck in gunk when transferred from one head to another. As they fully extend with no load when you take them out, mine seem to have become clogged and you can't clean them!!

Good luck! :)

i agree, and i dont think an oil pressure problem caused piston ring failure either, sounds like severe detonation.

If your spinning bearings, I don't think you need forged rods and pistons.

I did not give this engine a easy time. Its time to upgrade.. New engine specs will be

Aries Forgies

Spool Rods

Crank collar fitter to stock RB26 pump

fully balanced bottom end

Possible valve spring upgrade (does anyone know how much the stock rb25det head valve springs can handle before they start floating?)

Might push the power to 450rwhp then and more for dyno sheetoff's

I did not give this engine a easy time. Its time to upgrade.. New engine specs will be

Aries Forgies

Spool Rods

Crank collar fitter to stock RB26 pump

fully balanced bottom end

Possible valve spring upgrade (does anyone know how much the stock rb25det head valve springs can handle before they start floating?)

For the price of the spool rods its pretty hard to say no. :D

I was talking to one bloke a little while back via PM that began experiencing float at 20psi through is r33 rb25det head. I believe he may of went with a set of springs from PerformanceSprings. ~$285 for a set.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...