Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[TriniGT]

hey TriniGT

what engine are you running?

here is a pic of my rear oil drain setup. it goes into the rear oil drain for the twin turbo setup on a GTR

Thanks but any bigger pics, although I get the idea. Also any pics of die grinding the oil galleries witha a before and after shot, SydneyKid, where are you.

[Craved]

Thanks but any bigger pics, although I get the idea. Also any pics of die grinding the oil galleries witha a before and after shot, SydneyKid, where are you.

get your head gasket

place it on the block in place with the dowels in place to confirm its placement

die grind it til it is flush with the gasket on these rear galleries, no need to be bigger than the hole in your gasket

[Cubes]

I don't think that is correct. You use forged rods to handle more forces, not reduce them. Correct me if I am wrong.

Only if the rod is lighter than the standard item. Which I don't believe 'some' are??

However.. Reducing this mass at the piston end is much more benifitial. Forged pistons weigh less than the cast items. This reduces the weight hanging off the end of the rod, obviously reducing strain.

Much like a flywheel... Your better off reducing weight on the outer edge as its more benifitial, reducing weight towards the center is next to useless.

[blk180]

I think my Billet rods where lighter then my stock ones tho never weighted them to see.

[002-M-P]

After reading this thread a few weeks ago, then again today, I am still unsure of what to do for my application, so if someone wouldn't mind pointing me in the correct direction...

RB26, acl race bearings with calico coating, have not decided on pump yet (JUN if money allows, N1 if not). Anyways, the car is a daily driven street car but sees the cicuit time about once a month. Revs should stay below 8000rpm at all times (7500rpm shiftpoint, 7800rpm revlimit). Would you say that 1.25mm would be the best since it is in between the two applications or should you just go straight for the 1mm since it will see the track on a regular basis?

Edited February 6, 2007 by 002-M-P

[STATUS]

hey TriniGT

what engine are you running?

here is a pic of my rear oil drain setup. it goes into the rear oil drain for the twin turbo setup on a GTR

i much prefer to use one that has an raised lip that interference fits into the removed plug in the back of the head, not just bolts too the back of it like yours.... may be worth a few more sessions on the cnc.

Edited February 8, 2007 by URAS

[Duncan]

Why not just tap a fitting directly into the back of the head?

[legend01]

I went with this setup since its only to help with what the oil gallerys cant cope with

cheers Peter

[747.GTR]

where can i get a smaller restrictor from?? i need a 1.25mm one?????

[r33_racer]

We use mig welding tips, they are copper and about 6.2mm in diameter, depending on brand i spose. But then you have a choice of hole sizes for the different thickness wires used. Common welding wire for steel is 0.9mm but the tips are 1.0mm to allow for wire expansion from heat, so thats a 1mm restrictor, you just gotta cut it down to the length which should be about 6mm also from memory. If you use copper ally tips, they generally allow .2 expansion for wire so if its a 1.2mm tip the hole is actually 1.4mm.

Thats a typical 0.9mm steel tip at work. With a 1.0mm hole up its arse. Ive found that actually machining up 6.0mm restrictors is easy enough but then drilling a 1.0mm hole or 1.2mm hole is damn near impossible as the drill bits are too easy to snap. I snapped 4 X 1.0mm bits just to make one restrictor last time i tried that approach.

[Guilt-Toy]

How did you work that one out ?

[Sydneykid]

After reading this thread a few weeks ago, then again today, I am still unsure of what to do for my application, so if someone wouldn't mind pointing me in the correct direction...

RB26, acl race bearings with calico coating, have not decided on pump yet (JUN if money allows, N1 if not). Anyways, the car is a daily driven street car but sees the cicuit time about once a month. Revs should stay below 8000rpm at all times (7500rpm shiftpoint, 7800rpm revlimit). Would you say that 1.25mm would be the best since it is in between the two applications or should you just go straight for the 1mm since it will see the track on a regular basis?

You guess is not too bad, I would agree 1.25 mm is the go.

cheers

[Quiet Achiever]

Hope I am not hijacking this thread but did put a question up in the motorsport section.

My RB25 is for circuit racing only. Just turned it into a 5 cylinder with number one creating a new hole in the block. I need to go the dry sump way but cannot find any information on pan set up or specs. Can any body shed any light on the subject.

The wet sump ran wings, baffles, trap doors whilst the top end has enlarged breather holes going to two catch cans and a large bore line back to the sump including a holly red pump to drain oil back into the sump from the catch can.

Thanks

[Sydneykid]

Hope I am not hijacking this thread but did put a question up in the motorsport section.

My RB25 is for circuit racing only. Just turned it into a 5 cylinder with number one creating a new hole in the block. I need to go the dry sump way but cannot find any information on pan set up or specs. Can any body shed any light on the subject.

The wet sump ran wings, baffles, trap doors whilst the top end has enlarged breather holes going to two catch cans and a large bore line back to the sump including a holly red pump to drain oil back into the sump from the catch can.

Thanks

My experience tells me #1 cylinder letting go is not likely to be oil surge related. The only time I have seen #1 (or #2) let go was due to rod bolt breakage.

The RB30 thread has some pictures of the dry sump arrangement by R33racer.

You can of course leave your sump the way it is and simply plumb in 2 dash 8 fittings for the scavenge pumps. One moire at the rear of the cylinder for the 3rd scavenge stage and its done.

Most of us have used the air con compressor bracket on the LHS of the engine as a mountimg point for a 4 stage pump, like the Peterson 03-4201 Left Side, Twin Blade, Std Pressure

This is a 3 stage RHS, I can't find my picture of a 4 stage LHS, but it give you the idea

The crank spins clockwise, so the best place for the sump valley is on the RHS of the engine, with the scavenge lines going under the sump from the pump. This is a Chevy dry sump pan utilising that same logic

[Quiet Achiever]

Thanks Sydney Kid, I appreciate the feedback and links etc.

I think you are right, looking through the hole with what is left of the Eagle rod there are definitely no bolts left in place...still need to go the dry sump way as I am building a Silvia spaceframe sports sedan with mid mount RB motor and have no room for a normal wet sump.

Cheers again

[lovethatboost]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead. But my head is almost finished.

Where exactly should the external oil feed be routed to ON the sump?

[lazyboi444]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead. But my head is almost finished.

Where exactly should the external oil feed be routed to ON the sump?

I'm also sorry to bring this back from the dead....what did you guy block off the back restrictor with?

[r33_racer]

I machined up a bit of ally, 6mm long by about 6.1mm in diameter.

By external oil feed, if you mean rear drain from the head then it goes to the sump somewhere normally on the LHS of the motor..ie exhaust side.

[NXTIME]

I used a -12 90° brass threaded fitting, tapped into the head, with teflon braided hose going to a welded -12 fitting on the RHS of the sump, just below the oil dipstick hole.

[NXTIME]

However, this was a bit too bulky and leaves very little room to the firewall shielding.