Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

Sydneykid

By Sydneykid,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

iruvyouskyrine
iruvyouskyrine

Whoops, yes i did mean catch can, corrected it now. Yes i understand that now. The two goals are to reduce the amount of oil entering the head, and equalize crankcase pressure. The oiling issue is s

fatz
fatz

less thinking more doing shit that works in the getto Dash ten on pasengers side Two dash 12 on the drivers side, angles and spaced so as not to hit shit and be able to tighten the f**ker up note

SimonR32
SimonR32

I ran my set up right up to 8800rpm at 2 bar (740rwhp) around the track with sticky R-comps the other night and not a drop out of the catch can. This is with no oil restrictors to the head and a stoc

Posted Images

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

I know a lot of guys don't like using the original setup of using intake vacuum to act as a pump to draw out the crankcase pressure but for me, it is the best way to set it up.

The claim is that it somehow reduces the power of the engine, I would need to see proof to believe that but I'm sure there is a bit of merit in it.

When I got my car, the catch can was vented to atmosphere via a filter on one of the inlets/outlets and the intake pipe inlet was blocked off. My car would get blowby when it was cold and would blow smoke out of the exhaust about 5 minutes after starting the car. As soon as I re-plumbed it back to factory, no more blowby (and associated horrible fumes into the cabin) and no more blowing smoke.

With the engine I'm building now (30/26), I've had two fittings welded into the sump, one to equalise to the back of the head (aka head drain) and the second one will go to the catch can. My can will need 2 inlets (rockers and sump) and one outlet to go to the inlet pipe. I'm assuming (and hoping of course!) that this should be perfect.

Anyone have any feedback on this??

abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

Well, nitto oil pump, block one and 1.5mm on my rb25det didn't last 30mins on dyno, seized the cams

WHAT????????

really? break cams or just damage journals? thats crazy, was the restrictor smashed in when it got hammered down?

Did the cams caps get tensioned? And what tension was it?

  • Like 1
mickr33couple Community Regular

mickr33couple

Posted
Posted

WHAT????????

really? break cams or just damage journals? thats crazy, was the restrictor smashed in when it got hammered down?

Did the cams caps get tensioned? And what tension was it?

Yep, got the call from the tuner, he was putting some ks on the motor running it in, revs started to drop and car shut off, try to crank it over but it turned as if it had something seized in it, try to turn it over by hand and couldn't, thibk the tuner is going with seized cams coz of that tapping noise it had and was thought to be lifters

Won't find out the damage till I get the car back and start pulling things apart, 30mins of its life and its already dead, over it

Shazz Collaborator

Shazz

Posted
Posted

Sorry I wrote it wrong. It's to relieve pressure from the sump. So basically I have 2 lines from the cam covers and 2 lines from the sump that run to a catch can that vents to atmosphere. So I should look at running a second can that is an oil air seperator then plumb that back into the turbo side?

t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted

Well, nitto oil pump, block one and 1.5mm on my rb25det didn't last 30mins on dyno, seized the cams

Wow...something not right there. I've got a standard pump with one blocked and 1.5mm and its going great. Hope it isn't too bad!!

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I know a lot of guys don't like using the original setup of using intake vacuum to act as a pump to draw out the crankcase pressure but for me, it is the best way to set it up.

The claim is that it somehow reduces the power of the engine, I would need to see proof to believe that but I'm sure there is a bit of merit in it.

When I got my car, the catch can was vented to atmosphere via a filter on one of the inlets/outlets and the intake pipe inlet was blocked off. My car would get blowby when it was cold and would blow smoke out of the exhaust about 5 minutes after starting the car. As soon as I re-plumbed it back to factory, no more blowby (and associated horrible fumes into the cabin) and no more blowing smoke.

With the engine I'm building now (30/26), I've had two fittings welded into the sump, one to equalise to the back of the head (aka head drain) and the second one will go to the catch can. My can will need 2 inlets (rockers and sump) and one outlet to go to the inlet pipe. I'm assuming (and hoping of course!) that this should be perfect.

Anyone have any feedback on this??

The reason people go away from factory crankcase ventilation systems is that it does cost power...but for a non-obvious reason. oil mist, when ingested by the engine along with the fuel-air charge, causes an effective octane rating decrease (ie, it makes the engine more likely to ping). When people startto push lots of boost into engines they tend to get more blowby and more oil mist. That is a no-no when you're pushing the engine closer to the edge of pinging anyway, let alone having more oil mist getting burnt as well.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Sorry I wrote it wrong. It's to relieve pressure from the sump. So basically I have 2 lines from the cam covers and 2 lines from the sump that run to a catch can that vents to atmosphere. So I should look at running a second can that is an oil air seperator then plumb that back into the turbo side?

That's what I am going to do. However there is so little coming out of the cam covers now that I will plumb them direct to the second catch can and leave the first one just for the two lines from the sump (and breather to the second catch can).
mickr33couple Community Regular

mickr33couple

Posted
Posted

sucks to hear man. So for 30 mins of running (idling?) it just conks out all of a sudden? Tuner was obviously monitoring temps and pressure?

It was sent to tuner for run in tune, he started off with it idling checking the timing adjusting the cas, then I left, then got informed of what happen, he was making a new map for this tune so was getting everything ready he said the highest rpm they got to was 2500rpm it shut off on idle they said, it had a tapping noise in top end from first ever start up was thought to be lifters havnt self bleed yet turns out it was more then that to have the motor lock up

mickr33couple Community Regular

mickr33couple

Posted
Posted (edited)

From what they telling me it just started to die down in rpms, try to restart it and

Nothing wouldn't, thought it was flat battery put jumper pack on still wouldn't move, try to spin the motor over by hand and it wouldn't move

Yeah tuner said oil pressure was fine, and has said with the amount of noise the head had and we all thinking it was lifters he said its more then likely lack of oil to the head resulting in this

Edited by mickr33couple
Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

Sounds like bottom end. The timing belt would probably slip teeth on the cam but still turn over if it was being cranked over with a jumper battery!

I could be wrong however. If the timing belt was super tight possibly not.

Who built the engine?

mickr33couple Community Regular

mickr33couple

Posted
Posted

Sounds like bottom end. The timing belt would probably slip teeth on the cam but still turn over if it was being cranked over with a jumper battery!

I could be wrong however. If the timing belt was super tight possibly not.

Who built the engine?

Nah motor wouldn't turn over with jumper pack, and timing belt was tight could hear it when it was running, it had good oil pressure alround, I'm thinking block wasn't cleared out the best and there is a blockage to the oil feed to the head, with a block and 1.5m restritor should be able to see a fair bit of oil in the head still,

Won't name names of the engine builder yet till I work out what happen, have spoken to the engine builder he says if cams seized it will be from no oil which he didnt wanna restritor in the first place also said if bottom

End is seized to bring him back the engine to pull down and see what went wrong

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

It wouldn't take a very large particle to block a 1.5mm hole. Sorry to hear anyway Michael.

I am heading down a similar path with a blown Evo motor (going 2.4L stroker, self built), hopefully it's oil feeds are clear and the bearings aren't too munched...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...