Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[niZmO_Man]

Fk Pete you've had way more beers than me!

[fatz]

Day off

Couple of tins

Work on the car

Rev up Internet gtr lovers

Good times

[MrFijiGold]

Thanks Bob and Bryce. Already getting some more info from RaceFab. Bryce, like Matt said, gtt has been replaced with a 34R.

It already has tomei restrictors (1.5mm from memory). Getting a catch can setup (rocker covers to can. Top of can to sump fitting #1, bottom of can to sump fitting #2.

Was going to get cam cover baffles but it seems its a waste?

[KiwiRS4T]

Thanks Bob and Bryce. Already getting some more info from RaceFab. Bryce, like Matt said, gtt has been replaced with a 34R.

It already has tomei restrictors (1.5mm from memory). Getting a catch can setup (rocker covers to can. Top of can to sump fitting #1, bottom of can to sump fitting #2.

Was going to get cam cover baffles but it seems its a waste?

You're on the right track. What kind of oil pump are you using? I would go for 1.2mm restrictor if there's just one or 2 x 1.0mm.

[XKLABA]

I don't agree with the rear oil feed being blocked off and beleive it was a "quick fix" by Nissan when they realised how much oil would go to the head and get trapped there, it also creates a air pocket under the bung which IMO is never a good idea as it give the oil somewhere to go if there is a spike in oil pressure from say a preignition which allows the oil to get pushed backwards from the bigend allowing contact which can result in spinning it

Even wonder way it is almost always one of the rear bigends that spin ?

They should be removed and replaced with 2 appropriately sized restrictors, i have a Nitto pump and 2 x 1mm restrictors in my 2630

[Ben C34]

I don't agree with the rear oil feed being blocked off and beleive it was a "quick fix" by Nissan when they realised how much oil would go to the head and get trapped there, it also creates a air pocket under the bung which IMO is never a good idea as it give the oil somewhere to go if there is a spike in oil pressure from say a preignition which allows the oil to get pushed backwards from the bigend allowing contact which can result in spinning it

Even wonder way it is almost always one of the rear bigends that spin ?

They should be removed and replaced with 2 appropriately sized restrictors, i have a Nitto pump and 2 x 1mm restrictors in my 2630

Interesting theory.

The rear bearings are also furthest from the pump, that would be a contributing factor.

[MJTru]

Wow I said that.???? Kml

Why is my photo next to a name thats not mine.

[MJTru]

Thats a troll

[MJTru]

Wow that was fast. It just changed to a xx photo. Some glitch aye??

[XKLABA]

Interesting theory.

The rear bearings are also furthest from the pump, that would be a contributing factor.

It's oil under pressure, the distance from the filter to the last bearing isn't that far different then the front one

[Ben C34]

It's oil under pressure, the distance from the filter to the last bearing isn't that far different then the front one

Yeahh I get that, but couldn't undr the same circumstances of your example the oil be squeezed out through the other main bearings?

[MJTru]

It's oil under pressure, the distance from the filter to the last bearing isn't that far different then the front one

Like you siad. It pretty close; bearing wise. I won't say it again, and the only reason im saying it. Is beacuse of 2 reasons.

1. I was cursed to have the ability to be able to try all of the above mensioned so called solutions. (I know this will bite me in the butt later for saying this) 2. The damn money to learn hard ass leasons that don't work. ( guilt for not realizing the reality fast, bandaid approach) I would like to add a 3rd!! To think that there is a holy grail thats, theres a solution most of all that would justify my own fulfillment of my own personal goel to ignore oem flaws.

Now know how to fix it for the love of my own understanding, as to what to invest in, whiles asking myself is it worth it. ????. Sorry for my personal opions even if its not what most wants to hear. The rb motors are just flawed for the oil lubrication stand point.

[Dobz]

Having a blocked restrictor hole creating an air pocket wouldn't drop the pressure at the bearings but create a lot of lag in building pressure. Just think about how a few air bubbles can affect how your brakes work.

MJTru if you keep complaining you may as well sell your skyline and buy a toyota corolla so we don't have to hear your opinions anymore.

[MJTru]

MJTru if you keep complaining you may as well sell your skyline and buy a toyota corolla so we don't have to hear your opinions anymore.

Sorry mate sorry. Ill stop complaining.

[MJTru]

What I have figured out from the other side of the world is. Is this thread needs to be more foused. People on this topic should face couple of facts even though they may not like it. For circuit racing there is just nothing better than a dry sump setup and you can sit here and talk all ya want about taking long left hand turns or rights for that matter. At the end of the day if this thread was to advise people in prioritizing there results based on there investments and time spent on there motors as well as how they use it, it would help 90 % of the people that read this thread and stop at page 30, and under. Prioritize the info and save time and money. It reminds me of the 90 -10 rule in life 90 % of the people making 10% of the money and 10% of the people making 90% of the money. It relates to almost everything in life. It even goes for hp goals. Wow. Funny how people react to just opions here. Im one of them.

[XKLABA]

Brakes and engine oiling are to completely different realities, the pump creates a constant flow of fluid which would pressurise the air pocket then find path of least resistance with the internal pressure valve in the pump mantaining a constant pressure

The problem with an air pocket is air compresses at a much different rate to oil, this increased rate of compression is what can allow oil somewhere to go in a hurry when shit hits the fan

weather this makes a difference or not doesn't matter to me, if there is a easy way to remove it then it goes

I'm just trying to give ideas, do with them as you please

I know this much, i don't have pressure drops or spikes and there is very little oil coming out of my first catch can and none out of the second one and i've done 6 hill climbs and 2 track days and 2 trips to the drags so far

[Dobz]

XKALBA the second paragraph is what I was trying to explain, sorry if it wasn't clear. Hypothetically if you had a big enough brake master cylinder you could overcome air in a brake system too.

MJTru what you're saying is this topic should have started by saying "get a dry sump- the end"?

Edited April 18, 2015 by Dobz

[fatz]

90 percent of the gtr owners here don't track there cars

The other 10 percent have sorted the issue and get on with life

The constant left handers you will only get issues at 1.4g plus

[XKLABA]

Dry sump is obviously the best method and if you have a full race car perfect, get the dry sump setup

We have street cars and where we live the powers that be disapprove of those things on road cars so finding the best setup using a wet sump is what this thread is meant to be for

[fatz]

and yes a dry sump is the solution. For serious life. My car never dropped below 90 psi with the dry sump

Mind you there is always the I threw a belt issue that will f**k you

For kids in the northern hemisphere most race series ( is austrlalia) won't let you run a dry sump