Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[Stoney85]

Finally finished reading this topic... exhausted now.

If I was to completely change my current setup on my RB26, I'd now go with the two sump fittings on the inlet side as high as possible, as mentioned lately.

But it is a single turbo setup now and the rear turbo drain has now been utilized to have a braided line from the rear of the cylinder head as a breather (not cyl head drain as its advertised everywhere as), sure the fancier catch can with more fittings sounds like it will work, but my catch can setup as it is, sits behind the passenger strut tower and takes both rockers covers into it, along with a drain line into the turbo drain and a vent line into the turbo intake.

Nitto oil pump and 1.5mm restrictor, having read more, I'd probably go a 1.2mm now, but I'm happy with how it has been setup by the previous owner, so i'll be keeping it as it is for now, and this is a street car, not a track car, and having made 400kws without any oiling issues evident so far, i'll keep it as it is.

If I rebuild the cylinder head in the future, then I will tidy up the oil drain ports, and if it visits the track, then I will be monitoring it a lot closer.

[SSM]

Need advice. Can anyone here tell me how my catch can is supposed to look inside?
Baffles?

I have buildt it, and just spot welded it together and made sure it fit the car before going into the next stage. So I have to take it apart to do the inside. But I do not know how it is supposed to look.

The bungs is AN12 x 2 from rockercover. AN10 x 2 from crankcase breathing and AN10 x 1 as a optional return line to sump.

[KiwiRS4T]

Its meant to be baffled inside. If you Google you might find some images but basically the incoming flow should hit a flat plate surface first and preferably more than one to encourage the moisture (oil/water) to precipitate...drop to the bottom of the can...so that only hot gas leaves the can. A crude way is to fill the can with stainless steel wool.

Here's some

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=oil+catch+can+baffles&biw=1700&bih=1037&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CBsQsARqFQoTCIqzlITOsscCFQEtpgodbKAAIQ&dpr=0.95

[SSM]

Feel free to sketch.

[ScreamerNewbie]

A genuine rule of thumb is air/oil to flow a minimum of 180deg. With my catch can i did something similar to the pic below (sorry phone drawing haha). Basically air/oil comes in and hits a flat plate, has to run down then back up through steelwool then back down (2x180deg now) then back up through steel wool.=3x180 in total and 2x separate steel wool sections. The baffle that runs right to the bottom i had a couple holes so it could all drain out (not big as didnt plan on draining to sump)

[Looney_Head]

is it best for the sump return to be on the same side of the divider as the filters?

[KiwiRS4T]

is it best for the sump return to be on the same side of the divider as the filters?

Yes if you have a non-return valve in it. No in my case because my two sump vents both act as breathers until the can starts to fill with oil then only the top one is a true breather while the bottom one does provide some pressure relief. I guess three lines, two to the top of the can and one to the bottom as a dedicated drain is theoretically better but in practice my two line system with no non return valve has been fine.

"Filters" are illegal in most cases and I don't have one. My outlet goes to the turbo inlet pipe and if there was any evidence of oil getting in there I would put another air/oil separator in that line but there hasn't been a problem

[luke gtr]

OK, so, have the rear head drain/breather but am trying to decide where to connect.

Twin turbos on a dirty 30.

was going to go into the rear drain line, but reading g this, as a breather it wouldn't work.

the engine is together, so drilling and welding a port is out of the question.

Should I just connect the way I was?

leave it?

other suggestions?

[iruvyouskyrine]

Did you have a problem when you were running your single?

[luke gtr]

Yep.

filled the head with oil.

was on the track at the time.

didn't have the drain on then though.

[KiwiRS4T]

Yep.

filled the head with oil.

was on the track at the time.

didn't have the drain on then though.

If your head is filling with oil the fitiing at the back of the head will do SFA wherever you send it. Have you done anything different such as fitting restrictors? If not its engine out and head and sump off.

[fatz]

If your head is filling with oil the fitiing at the back of the head will do SFA wherever you send it. Have you done anything different such as fitting restrictors? If not its engine out and head and sump off.

Several option before doing that

[ScreamerNewbie]

from my experience you can put the head "drain" as you called it, Teed into the 2 turbo drains and all drain back to the block ASLONG as you let the intake side of the sump breathe well!

I ran this setup on my DOHC single turb 30 and never had an oil issue flogging its guts out.

2x -12 sump breathers intake side

1x -12 head drain to ex side of block with -10 turbo drain teed into it

2x -12 cam cover lines

both sump breathers and cam covers ran to the baffled and vented catch can, NO return line to sump (e85)

6.5L sump

2L accusump

1.3mm restrictor and 1 blank

tomei oil pump relief capped to 110psi by 5000rpm.

do what you wish with my info, tell me im wrong, tell me im right, it is a very reliable setup.

[KiwiRS4T]

from my experience you can put the head "drain" as you called it, Teed into the 2 turbo drains and all drain back to the block ASLONG as you let the intake side of the sump breathe well!

I ran this setup on my DOHC single turb 30 and never had an oil issue flogging its guts out.

2x -12 sump breathers intake side

1x -12 head drain to ex side of block with -10 turbo drain teed into it

2x -12 cam cover lines

both sump breathers and cam covers ran to the baffled and vented catch can, NO return line to sump (e85)

6.5L sump

2L accusump

1.3mm restrictor and 1 blank

tomei oil pump relief capped to 110psi by 5000rpm.

do what you wish with my info, tell me im wrong, tell me im right, it is a very reliable setup.

It should work since you've shelled out for an accusump!

The restrictors and sump breathers will help.

Yes you "can" put in the "head drain" and you "can" paint flames on the mudguards but neither will do anything useful.

In most cases vented catch cans are illegal so I'll give you 8 out of 10!

[MJTru]

So as some may have seen ive been staying tuned to this topic as i like this thread.

I have been experimenting with different setups as i build a few rb"s

On rb26 ive gotten pretty much sorted out. I started with the piston rings. Next was head oil restrictors. A custome head drain. (Ok not a drain lol ) so bare wit me a bit here as im sure ill get ridiculed. I vented the block from the front turbo drain unsing a dash 10 hose. Head drain (not a drain) to the rear turbo oil drain. And the singal gt42 drian go to the race fab oil pan on the turbo side. I have 2 rb26 set up this was and not a signal sign of oil. On the rb25's its a bigger challenge and ive done the following that seems to work upwards of 28 psi of boost and no sign of oil the car doesnt even have a catch can at the moment as were being lazy and not installed it as yet.

We really realized that the rb25's shouldn't have there oil restricted to much as the lifters need to have a good amount of oil. We even had some new set make noise untill they cooled down. Before that the just failed and tick all the time. Were talking new lifters from rhd japan here. So last what seemed to work for us was to get rid of the front head drain. We blocked that off from the head and vented the block but we focused on really letting all this oil drain. We had no idea if it will work at the time. I puched the biggest hole i could in the back of the head with 2 dash 12 (drain) hoses one on the intake side of the head to the front ofna race fab oil pan, exhaust side on the rear of the oil pan. The standard head drain pooled the oil in the line and backed that up in the rear of the head. So we thought we should pool.the oil in a oil catch and use the weight of the oil to help puch it down only when it pools up. Whiles cornering it would do so in the respected dash 12 drains. So this led us to make our own head drain. ( please remember this was all experimental at the time.) So after that was done the turbo oil drain was returned in the same place as the rb26 set up. But on the rb25 there was no oil drian as on the rb26 for rear turbo. So we simply made that in the block. And from our dash 12 hose (head drain) exhaust side we returned it there.

The photo i have a ruff but gives a good illustration of what i mean. The photos are old and missing the 2 dash 12 hoses.

But we have been testing it and not a sign of oil as yet. If anyone is intrested id be happy to give more details. Just pm me.

[MJTru]

Im trying to load more photos. Having problems will try a bit later

[MJTru]

We habe tested this for some time now. Its working well not a sign of oil. Think we found our solution.

[GTSBoy]

Marcus, how are you connecting that nasty looking rusty steel box to the huge hole in the alloy head?

[MJTru]

Yeah the outside is bad. The inside is good and clean. plus after is gets dipped. Then it comes out like new. By the way thats my first week of using a tig welder. Lol

[MJTru]

Marcus, how are you connecting that nasty looking rusty steel box to the huge hole in the alloy head?

Lol

Thats funny. I punched the matching hole in the back of the head. In the first photo you will see it. Like i said its all was experimental

But seems to work. I will remake them all out of aluminum soon as i dont have a good tig welder. And its not a ac/dc high frequency unit. So i was stuck with making it out of steel

Im suprised at how well it works. Trust me mate. The finish product looked way better and turst me when i say there no rust on the end unit.