Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[zebra]

Ok so you Rb26 fags have talked enough.

What is this weeks verdict on RB25 oil restrictor sizing?

2x 1.0mm?

[zebra]

Nevermind, found the updated chart

[Piggaz]

What's the latest setup, Zeb?

[zebra]

Stock, with a blown head gasket lol

[AngryRB]

Few cans of stop smoke .. and boost on Zeb!!

[crysak]

How is this thread not a sticky? (or has there been a conclusion version of this added elsewhere to the site?)

I have just spent the last 2 weeks slowly reading through it at work, some really great advice and research.

I have one more questions to throw into the pot if people are still interested:

RE: Risk of flooding catch can via sump vents on hard cornering and running the sump dry:

• Has anyone tried running a catch can vent from both the intake and exhaust side of the sump, I know that due to the rotation of the crank the exhaust side would be less affective but on cornering it would provide an alternative route for blow by instead of flooding the catch can and potentially running dry (or would a baffled and extended sump fix this issue anyway)

[iruvyouskyrine]

Baffled/trapdoor, extended sump and putting the -10 lines as high as possible on the sump will negate most of that issue. My oversize sump takes about 6.5L. I don't imagine I will ever have an issue.

[KiwiRS4T]

How is this thread not a sticky? (or has there been a conclusion version of this added elsewhere to the site?)

I have just spent the last 2 weeks slowly reading through it at work, some really great advice and research.

I have one more questions to throw into the pot if people are still interested:

RE: Risk of flooding catch can via sump vents on hard cornering and running the sump dry:

• Has anyone tried running a catch can vent from both the intake and exhaust side of the sump, I know that due to the rotation of the crank the exhaust side would be less affective but on cornering it would provide an alternative route for blow by instead of flooding the catch can and potentially running dry (or would a baffled and extended sump fix this issue anyway)

The build up of pressure that need to be relieved seems to be more on the inlet side. My catch can is about 3L and by the look of it the max level would be about halfway and since I fill with 6L of oil I don't see it emptying the sump. And yes an extended sump with baffles and gates would be an added safeguard.

[HarrisRacing]

How is this thread not a sticky? (or has there been a conclusion version of this added elsewhere to the site?)

I have just spent the last 2 weeks slowly reading through it at work, some really great advice and research.

I have one more questions to throw into the pot if people are still interested:

RE: Risk of flooding catch can via sump vents on hard cornering and running the sump dry:

• Has anyone tried running a catch can vent from both the intake and exhaust side of the sump, I know that due to the rotation of the crank the exhaust side would be less affective but on cornering it would provide an alternative route for blow by instead of flooding the catch can and potentially running dry (or would a baffled and extended sump fix this issue anyway)

I have two -10 fittings welded to the oil pan on the front right side of the engine (under intake manifold).

Since I'm single turbo I also modified the front factory turbocharger oil drain line (behind AC compressor on exhaust side of the block) with a -10 steel AN fitting as well.

I like your idea of tying the left side to the right on the vent for the catch can. But yes if you can go single you can free up another port on the exhaust side.

[MJTru]

How is this thread not a sticky? (or has there been a conclusion version of this added elsewhere to the site?)

I have just spent the last 2 weeks slowly reading through it at work, some really great advice and research.

I have one more questions to throw into the pot if people are still interested:

RE: Risk of flooding catch can via sump vents on hard cornering and running the sump dry:

• Has anyone tried running a catch can vent from both the intake and exhaust side of the sump, I know that due to the rotation of the crank the exhaust side would be less affective but on cornering it would provide an alternative route for blow by instead of flooding the catch can and potentially running dry (or would a baffled and extended sump fix this issue anyway)

I have done it on both sides for rb25. My setup mimics a rb26. My approach is very very differnt. But i have no regrets. Not one sign of oil at 28 psi beating it hard in corners and on the drag strip. I at the moment dont even have a hose attached to the valve cover, and not one sign of oil. Soon i will add a catch can Not returning to anything. I hope the photos help.

[crysak]

just opened my R33 GTST late S1 (with S2 engine) to see that all oil feeds have a 1.5mm restrictor in! bought a 1.5 mm restrictor and had plans to block the middle but after seeing this I guess I'll just leave it like that and add a vent to catch can from sump

[GTR George]

Gday RB fans,

I'm relatively new to this forum, GTR's and also to circuit racing but have been running my R32 at Winton sprints for almost two seasons without a hitch. My engine has had quite a lot work done such as a bigger sump with wings, 3ltr catch can (located up front on driver side inner guard replacing the battery), cams, rebuilt head, bigger turbos etc. All work done by a GTR guru with 20yr experience. Bottom end is standard I think but "apparently" was new prior to buying the car. 400Kw at wheels.

I would like to do some bigger circuits such as Philip Island and Eastern Creek but have been told I must have a 2nd catch can or I risk the engine. Does anyone have any thoughts on why this is necessary and what might happen if I just go for it! Keeping in mind that I have not had any overflow from the current catch can or ever noticed too much oil pressure, except for when the engine is cold. When hot and at revs the pressure seems to run 60-70 psi and at idle 20psi.

I'm eager to get on some bigger tracks but prefer to finish the track days with the engine intact.

 

[KiwiRS4T]

If you value your RB26 take the time to read a big whack of this thread - start half way through if you like and take your time and you will see what the consensus is.

[otomix]

3 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

If you value your RB26 take the time to read a big whack of this thread - start half way through if you like and take your time and you will see what the consensus is.

Exactly what Bob said. 

I've pestered him in the past and the guy knows what he's talking about! He also sells excellent oil restrictors (very high quality) and has some sound advice that will likely save you a lot of $$$ and heartache. Not just brown nosing, but spend the time reading this thread and you will be a whole lot bloody wiser, thats for sure. I'm super confident with all my builds from now on, as basically it makes common sense to allow the thing to breath and drain well. 

 

(PS Bob, I expect high dollar kickbacks for the kind words! haha Jokes, I'm just telling the truth. ) 

[KiwiRS4T]

Thanks Dave but have to give credit to Sydney Kid for kicking it off and then a number of people refined it with their own real life experiences until a pretty well defined consensus was reached as to what works best and why...

[gtr jet]

13 hours ago, GTR George said:

Gday RB fans,

I'm relatively new to this forum, GTR's and also to circuit racing but have been running my R32 at Winton sprints for almost two seasons without a hitch. My engine has had quite a lot work done such as a bigger sump with wings, 3ltr catch can (located up front on driver side inner guard replacing the battery), cams, rebuilt head, bigger turbos etc. All work done by a GTR guru with 20yr experience. Bottom end is standard I think but "apparently" was new prior to buying the car. 400Kw at wheels.

I would like to do some bigger circuits such as Philip Island and Eastern Creek but have been told I must have a 2nd catch can or I risk the engine. Does anyone have any thoughts on why this is necessary and what might happen if I just go for it! Keeping in mind that I have not had any overflow from the current catch can or ever noticed too much oil pressure, except for when the engine is cold. When hot and at revs the pressure seems to run 60-70 psi and at idle 20psi.

I'm eager to get on some bigger tracks but prefer to finish the track days with the engine intact.

 

I've had a look at your car at Winton a few times and judging by how you seem to be going there I don't think you'd have an issue at any of the bigger tracks.

My car is much more basic than your's and I don't have any issues. Changing gears before 7500rpm on the long straights seems to help with blow by.

[Darmanin10]

On 3/13/2014 at 6:54 PM, iruvyouskyrine said:

 

Looking at doing some track work with my 32r. Figured it would be important to do something about the oil issue in the rb’s while im swapping the turbos. It will be a standard motor with cam gears and arp head studs. Single turbo RB26 with about 300-350kw on e85. I will be limiting revs to 7k and only doing minimal hot laps at a time.

After reading through the thread and the hi octane article, this seems to be the ideal setup

• ·         Extended sump with baffle
•      Oil restrictors
•      Oil drain enlarging with chamfered holes
•      Cam cover baffle plates
•      Oil/air separator
•      Well setup catch can

The first three on the list are engine out jobs from what I understand.  I want to try avoid pulling the engine, so I thought overfilling the stock sump up to the hump on the dipstick and running an accusump would be good enough alternatives. Will also run oil cooler for temps and oil filter relocate for easy swaps. 

Looking at running an oil/air separator from the cam covers, which feeds to the catch can. The setup above looked like the best. Couple of questions in regards to this. Some have mentioned they don’t run sump breathers with e85. Is this just a myth or whatt? Also, would sump breathers (#3, #4) be able to be fitted to the sump with the engine still in the car?

Would this setup be pretty decent, or just a waste of time and money?  

Edited October 20, 2016 by Darmanin10

[fatz]

I ran similar just a extra vent from oil cap to catch can

all worked well for abit until the engine for older then I put a scavenge pump in the head which helped again

[djr81]

You dont need an accusump.

No idea what the fuel type has to do with the sump breathers which vent blowby via a route that is not the head.  But it is next to impossible to fit sump breathers with the engine in.  You can, if you try hard enough, remove the sump and leave the engine in.

It all depends on how much bother you want to go to.  If you leave the system as is you will get oil dripping out of the bov's and generally through your induction system.  If you vent the catch can to atmosphere you will probably get oil spread around your engine bay.  If your engine has a good amount of blowby you will definately get these things happening.

You have to fix it properly if you want to fix it and even then it wont be perfect.

[fatz]

Data logging shows the accusump helps