Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My GTR has been shitting itself lately.

dropping revs to the point of completely stalling in the space of about 3 seconds....

stalling for no reason at idle.... accelerator being non responsive... slugging, lacking power.

could this be my problem?

cheers

  • 2 months later...

just to let everyone know, i just done this tutorial on my car as it was almost un-driveable and it has fixed it better then when i first got the car back 5 years ago.

My issues were:

1. Stalling when slowing down

2. Miss-fire every second or two

3. Cant rev over 3000 without making lots of backfire and smoke out the exhaust

4. And every now and then entering limp home mode when first starting the car.

I suggest everyone should try this if they have 2 or more of these symptoms

If this didnt fix the car then i was going to get a Auto-Sparky to look at it.

  • 4 weeks later...

I did this back when I had my GT-R, it got me out of trouble for a few weeks while I sourced a pair of AFM's, I bought a pair as they were matched and funnily enough the other stocker died not much later so I was glad I had the pair.

This works but for how long comes down to many other factors.

  • 2 weeks later...

I just bought a 33 GTR and it was doing the whole running rough and stalling and hunts for idle, have taken off AFM's and re soldered them as a couple of the pins were not making a solid connection, put them back on and reset the ECU and it made no difference. I know its the AFM's as i have hooked up the diagnostic console and the only error code that popped up was AFM's.... i am a little puzzled and have checked all visible wiring for the afm's aswell as the plugs and all seem fine :P

Mine didn't last long soldered, best to swap in some new or second handers.

If you're confident it's the problem then the soldering is not worth the headache in the long run. Some may be more damaged that others and be more successfully repaired than others too.

good luck.

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
I just bought a 33 GTR and it was doing the whole running rough and stalling and hunts for idle, have taken off AFM's and re soldered them as a couple of the pins were not making a solid connection, put them back on and reset the ECU and it made no difference. I know its the AFM's as i have hooked up the diagnostic console and the only error code that popped up was AFM's.... i am a little puzzled and have checked all visible wiring for the afm's aswell as the plugs and all seem fine :)

Clean the element. Use CRC contact Cleaner. The actual AFm sensor itself.

  • 2 weeks later...
Clean the element. Use CRC contact Cleaner. The actual AFm sensor itself.

would you suggest trying this for mine. The problem with my car is ever since i noticed 1 of the AFM voltages being very low compared to the other one its been popping and backfiring alot. So i thought i might try and give them both a clean.

  • 2 months later...

I bought my car 4 weeks ago and it was doing the same thing:

-dropping revs and stalling when slowing down

-dropping revs and threatening to stall with aircon on

-stalling/misfiring on acceleration

(all in a matter of within 3 days).

Sent it to the mechanic took them 3 days to work out what was wrong, they cleaned the AFMs and the car seems completely different now, it actually goes on boost. Will have a look at the contacts if this problem comes up again.

  • 6 months later...

hey guys, this is great info!! I re- soldered my connections even though they looked ok, but also found alot of corrosion on the printed circuit board under the gold coverplate. Either way car's fixed idles smoother, don't cut out and feels like its picked up a handfull of kw!! win win!

  • 7 months later...

Bumping for usefulness.

I was about to chuck a thread up saying how I did this as a fix but found this first. VG30 in Maxima being pain in the ass on all types of driving, but very very intermittent. Cleaned AFM and contact cleaned corrosion off one of the contact pins to no avail.

Not knowing the internals of the AFM I took out them 4 screws and lightly tugged on the socket, and like you said it came out surprisingly easy.

Now, knowing it's broken anyways, I pried the top off and saw the 4 pins were all intact, resoldered the joints and it's been running fine ever since. Lots of money saved. Remember to reseal the join on the lid with some gasket goo.

+1.

  • 6 months later...

Hey,

Just reading through this now, I think I have the same problem as you guys, but I think My AFM PLUG is also loose with the wiring..

any of you guys live in West Melbourne that could help me out with this 1 weekend or so, pm me if you can we can organize something.

ps: I dont know squat about soldering and I dont want to try lol

Cheers

  • 4 weeks later...

Gonna bump an old thread to say this fix worked on my car.

My car would run (what seemed like) okay when cold, but after it reached operating temperature, it would randomly die/not want to rev/drop revs/misfire/have a 2,500rpm rev limiter.

Car initially started have some minor issues revving out and making full boost, I thought it was the CAS as it was only doing it while hot. A CAS swap did not affect the car. The car gradually got worse until it started dying randomly.

I re-soldered both AFM, the soldering on the pins were a little weak. Re-sealed with Sikaflex.

Thanks again for this fix. I'll attack my R31's AFM when I get some time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...