Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

what plugs are you running, and also what gap, try 0.8mm and see how that does, if not go to 0.7 and then 0.65mm.

Mine ar at 0.65 as when it gets dam cold here in tas, the air is so dence, the mixture is very hard to ignite, and my coils suc

Even with splitfires Im running .8 gap as I still got missing at 1.1 (indicating possibly ignitor or something else?) Generally only after Ive babied it around for 50kms so it could just be that the plugs are fouling up. On a cold night it runs really well.

ok got some different coils.

Still have the miss firing problem.

Are they still the VN coils? VN owners look for replacement solutions because of their poor performance on an NA engine, they wont ever work well on your motor.

Edited by Rolls
  • 3 weeks later...

iv been lookin into this and by the looks of the au coils all 6 and built into the one unit? iv been lookin round on ebay n can u use any type of coil? i understand how it works but dont understand the wiring side of things.. could you remove the coil pack loom n make a new one from scratch?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-MSD-HIGH-VIBRAT...1QQcmdZViewItem]coil system[/url]

in the link can this be used or way off? is that to run all 6 or do you need one for eash cylinder?

i find this abit confusing but im very keen to get my head around it n get it workin good

thanks

Edited by 2gceffy
my pricing is brand new leads and coil pack through repco but at mates rates..

pfft ford.. who would want a ford part on there car.. lol its bad enough we have mitsi parts running our engines

Give me a ford TYPHOON any day smoke back nearly all our cars

VN coils are known to be shit.

Use a VP coil pack, its what is recommended when replacing coils on ones VN dungadoor.

Fords better than Holden anyway. Holdens 'feel' cheap and rattle after a few kms. :)

The VP coils really do throw out a fat spark, I've seen one that I was testing jump ~6cm's and it was fat as, I could hear the crack.

Has any one ran these VN/VP coils at high rpm 7000-8000rpm with decent boost?

  • 3 weeks later...

Hay guys, i have all my bits now, just need the Coils, whats better to use.

AU S1 Coils.

VN Coils or

VP Coils.

I am also using a S1 ignitor for an R33. Mine is a S2. I have made a plug that goes form S2 loom to S1 ignitor and onlt the coils.

I hope this works, i would hate to spend money and get nowhere.

cubes i regulary run the r33 using the vn coils to redline running 13.5 psi gapped plugs to 75thou.I dont no if thats the sort of figures ur after but it has missed once when the plugs where at 1.1 I will be upgrading the vn coils with msd shortly

So which to get. You see mine is a S2, so i got the ignitor, but it is going to cost me another $90 for plugs to make up a harness between the S1 ignitor and the S2 loom. So all up looking at close to $300. Now i think it might be easier to get splitfires.

i hav done 2 wasted spark conversions 1 using a vp coilpack into an rb30det and a mitsubishi diamonte v6 into my rb20de.

at first they both went like shit on a stick there was a huge diff in acceleration and the idle was mint.

as far as i know the mitsi alternative has not relly been tried but it cretes a huge spark it manager 2 jump out of the ht lead thru another 3 cm to the plenum so thats about 6cm in total.

but after about 3 weeks the rb30 stopped makin spark all together when it was taken 2 the tunors he said that it was because the r32 igniter was not compatible with the waisted spark and the charge times are diff so as a result we had been over working the igniter this resulted in the link ecu needing rebuilding and a new igniter out of a mitsi or holden needing 2 be rewired in its not yet back from the tunor but il keep u updated.

now for mine. the rb20 didnt give me any trouble until all of a sudden it stalled when i left it at idle n it refused 2 start there was full battory but it would only start when i pushed it once i got it going it didnt give me any trouble till the next day. it started first pop but on my journey i pulled over and left it idling again when it stalled it would not start under the battory and i reset the ecu several times. that night i towed it home, i tow started it a couple of times on the way home and it would only idle and not rev the minuit i touched the accelerator it would start missing and then stall unless i quickly pumped the pedal. since i got it home it will idle and start under battory but still not rev i have restored the factoy coils and that didnt fix it i also tried replacing the afm i hav the hunch its the ecu and will be replacing that soon 2 c what happens.

im prety sure the rb20's problems are a result of the ignition mods but if any1 can can prove me wrong i would be quite gratefull

the rb30's problems are deffinetely a result if the coil pack mods

post-29910-1165127820.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...