Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As some of you are aware im selling copies of the Banana bar but i have run into a slight problem... I have No idea what indicators are being used in the bar and obviously makes it hard to sell the bar and have no idea what indicators it comes with...

If anyone can shed some light as to what indicators they are it would be very much appreciated.. I have spoken to Nissan and a few other places and no-one can tell me what they are…

Back dimensions are around 90x40mm at the base and span out to a 125x40mm at the front..

Attached is a shot of the indicator…

post-11799-1147093955.jpg

Thanx again in advance to anyone that can tell me what they are off cheers…

Matt

Also if your interested in the bar Link is below in the Sig....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116924-i-need-some-help/
Share on other sites

Dark cheers mate but there is nothing... All the indicators has is a Manufactures Number and Both Nissan and a second hand joint have both told me that the numbers mean Jack and im unable to order parts from the given markings..

Hence this being such a hard task

have u tried running the numbers through mitsibushi or toyota, cuz by the looks of those n the dimensions, it looks as its off a pre 98 Mitsibushi Canter (its a 1 ton truck, sorta).....i may be wrong but run the part number through mitsubishi.....wudn hurt.....

ok they are not 180sx ones are they??

Right Hand: B6170-60F00

Left Hand: B6175-60F00

I have been looking at some 180sx kits and the hole looks very very similar in the sqaure shape...but i have no dimentions...

post-3725-1124260412.jpg

Edited by khunjeng

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...