Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ive just brought a manual r32 gts-t rb20det with 77kms and im looking at gettin around the 300rwkw mark im just after some advice on wat parts need to be changed and wat turbo to go with etc, also a ruff price on parts and a good rebuild.

any help would be greatly appreciated thankyou

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117747-how-to-get-300rwkws-plz-help/
Share on other sites

hey ive just brought a manual r32 gts-t rb20det with 77kms and im looking at gettin around the 300rwkw mark im just after some advice on wat parts need to be changed and wat turbo to go with etc, also a ruff price on parts and a good rebuild.

any help would be greatly appreciated thankyou

gt35r or 40r turbo, manifold, ecu, injectors, intercooler, rods and pistons 2 b safe... AND a good tune.. 13gs later....

buy a 26

300rwkw is a lot in an R32 GTST... Stock Rb20 transmission will be shredded, and RB20DET would be hard to drive (laggy) with that much power.

So you're looking at a motor and transmission swap. Then add turbos, intercoolers, dyno tune, ECU, injectors, fuel pump, possibly differential, probably suspension (springs, dampers, swaybars, strut braces etc) and brakes, new wheel and tyre package (stock R32 tyres will be too narrow for 300rwkw!) which might require lipping/flaring of the guards, exhaust, dump pipe, cold air intake, clutch, manifold, etc. You might want to do some internal work too, if you're keen - pistons, rods, etc.

But do you REALLY need 300rwkw... I mean REALLY? Leave those power levels to the GTRs, I reckon! :P And the VTECs! :(

yeah i do lol well i dont reali but its nice 2 kno uve got it there if u wanna use it im thinkin of buyin a r33 gts25t coz my m8 will buy my 32 4 wat i payed 4 it that way i dont have 2 do an engine swap n that

your power goal is not realistic

decide;

if you plan to keep the 32 rb20

change engine

and how much money you have

then we can help you out,

a 300rwkw rb20 will look like this;

lag lag lag lag lag lag lag lag lag lag power, change gears

kinda useless other than for dyno competitions. have u been in a 300rwkw car? why did you choose 300rwkw? its easily 15k++ to get there.

i reckon this. save up your 10k (minimum for lots of kilowatts) and do a bit of research in the process. then when u have all your cash ask the questions you havent worked out the answers for through research.

research as in scanning through various threads, reading car mags. how stuff works. com etc etc.

james.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...