Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ive just brought a manual r32 gts-t rb20det with 77kms and im looking at gettin around the 300rwkw mark im just after some advice on wat parts need to be changed and wat turbo to go with etc, also a ruff price on parts and a good rebuild.

any help would be greatly appreciated thankyou

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117747-how-to-get-300rwkws-plz-help/
Share on other sites

hey ive just brought a manual r32 gts-t rb20det with 77kms and im looking at gettin around the 300rwkw mark im just after some advice on wat parts need to be changed and wat turbo to go with etc, also a ruff price on parts and a good rebuild.

any help would be greatly appreciated thankyou

gt35r or 40r turbo, manifold, ecu, injectors, intercooler, rods and pistons 2 b safe... AND a good tune.. 13gs later....

buy a 26

300rwkw is a lot in an R32 GTST... Stock Rb20 transmission will be shredded, and RB20DET would be hard to drive (laggy) with that much power.

So you're looking at a motor and transmission swap. Then add turbos, intercoolers, dyno tune, ECU, injectors, fuel pump, possibly differential, probably suspension (springs, dampers, swaybars, strut braces etc) and brakes, new wheel and tyre package (stock R32 tyres will be too narrow for 300rwkw!) which might require lipping/flaring of the guards, exhaust, dump pipe, cold air intake, clutch, manifold, etc. You might want to do some internal work too, if you're keen - pistons, rods, etc.

But do you REALLY need 300rwkw... I mean REALLY? Leave those power levels to the GTRs, I reckon! :P And the VTECs! :(

yeah i do lol well i dont reali but its nice 2 kno uve got it there if u wanna use it im thinkin of buyin a r33 gts25t coz my m8 will buy my 32 4 wat i payed 4 it that way i dont have 2 do an engine swap n that

your power goal is not realistic

decide;

if you plan to keep the 32 rb20

change engine

and how much money you have

then we can help you out,

a 300rwkw rb20 will look like this;

lag lag lag lag lag lag lag lag lag lag power, change gears

kinda useless other than for dyno competitions. have u been in a 300rwkw car? why did you choose 300rwkw? its easily 15k++ to get there.

i reckon this. save up your 10k (minimum for lots of kilowatts) and do a bit of research in the process. then when u have all your cash ask the questions you havent worked out the answers for through research.

research as in scanning through various threads, reading car mags. how stuff works. com etc etc.

james.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...