Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I searched all over, and hav'nt gotten an answer that stops my mind from mulling over this yet.

On a car with an internal gate and a dump pipe with the open "screamer", how does the dump seal off from the screamer to keep it from being a continuous exhaust leak from the screamer it's self?

Someone is selling them on here for 32s and 33s, and I really want one, but I just cant see it sealing up.

I see that they have a piece of pipe extending into the exhaust housing, but is that enough to seal it up?

I would love some input from some of the fellas who have purchased, and are using one of these.

Also, this may be a dumb question, but if I dont mind the loudness of my straight 3" exhaust with straight thru muffler, or the sound of an open pop-off valve...will this thing be ear peircing, head ache inducing loud? Or will it be just another turbo sound to add to the list. Once again, opinions from those with ANY kind of screamer pipe, internal gate or external would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help guys.

It works by having an extended seperater which comes off the flange to seal the exhaust housing of the turbo from the waste gate and exducer (exhaust wheel) of the turbo. Have a look at BATML (I think it is) split dump for R33/R32 in the business section and you will see how the seperator goes.

Screamer pipes on stock turbos while as not being as loud as ones with external wastegates are still f**king loud as. And considernig stock turbos are pretty small it will be on venting pretty much the whole time. Sounds cool but a bit risky in terms of getting pulled over and scaring little kids and old women.

It seals up to the outlet port of the internal wastegate. Try and picture an exhaust housing on the turbo like this (oO). The smaller o is the outlet of the internal wastegate, the bigger O is the nomral exhaust from the exhaust side of the turbo.

My personal opinion is they sound like crap on most internally gated turbos.

So you guys are saying that the pipe that extends into the tubine housing and looks like it almost touches the blades(I know it dosnt, just using for refference), will seal off all of the main exhaust gas from the waste gate exhaust. Correct?

When I'm criusing along at less than my wastegated boost pressure, the "screamer" will be completely silent, correct?

Then, at Max boost, it will make a whistling sound mixed with an open down -pipe kinda sound. Correct?

When I release the throttle, it will also flutter a little before the BOV can catch up to it. Correct?

Sorry to be a pain, just learning somethin' new here.

Thanks for your replies so far.

When I release the throttle, it will also flutter a little before the BOV can catch up to it. Correct?

That is correct, you might have heard people saying they have a wastegate not a bov, do this mod and you can say the same too. The screamer pipe is what gives the VL's their "choof choof choof choof" noise.

How The Heck Do Screamer Pipes On Internal Gates Seal Off?

They dont !!

Ignoring the fact that they are usually china made POS things.

There is no gasket and the two surfaces are not face machined. There is no way it would seal 100 %.

You would always have a slight exhaust leak through the gate pipe(screamer) even when the internal gate is closed.

Most people just live with this or pretend its not real.

Holey crap! That thing looks terrible. I can see how it would leak all the time.

The other ones I've been looking at on here with the little protruding pipe thingy seem like they would be much better than that thing. Ugh.

My final question before giving up on this is... Does the little exhaust leak sound like a tick, sorta like a leaky gasket, or is it a smooth enough sound that you do not notice so much???

You fellas have been very helpful, even if it means I'm probably not getting this thing now.

Thanks guys. I'm just gonna get a reular divorced tube that goes back in kinda deal.

I know I probably wont ever hear the leak over all the other sounds my car makes, but it will never seem right to me. I guess I will wait till I have a real turbo and w/g to get the sounds that go with em. LOL.

I did not search to check, but do any of you guys use the american made cheapo SSautochrome dump pipes?

Some of their stuff is crap, but a dump pipe is what it is as long as it is 3" and dosnt crack twice a year on me.

If you happen to read this, and you have one, could you please chime in with your experiences.

3 months is a long time. Mine lasted all of 3 weeks and it is a proper ex gate screamer too.

I just couldn't stand being the centre of attention whenever the car made boost......

3 months is a long time. Mine lasted all of 3 weeks and it is a proper ex gate screamer too.

I just couldn't stand being the centre of attention whenever the car made boost......

Dave that's because you're sick.... but not FULLY sick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also build this EH ute with 370z motor and gearbox with a couple of turbos just for fun.  
    • Got the passenger door on plus the master cylinder and booster. Loaded up to take it home. At home, the colour changes a lot in the light.
    • Nothing cheap, but I have seen the AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ which is pretty close to what you're asking for. The problem is the hydraulic cylinder mandates that the back of the jack be a certain height and Skylines have fairly deep inset floor jack points. A more certain and cheap option is to get some nominal 2x10 inch lumber boards and have one board be 1.5 feet, the other board 3 feet. Glue it all together with lots of clamps to maintain pressure. Make two of these. The ramp suggested above is a good idea, it takes quite a bit of clutch slip to get over each of the boards. I only need the first ~1.5 inches for my low profile jack on a standard ride height car but a lowered car you want to go up to the full ~3-3.5 inches. Paint it or store indoors if you want it to last.
    • Ok. And Nistune? I read (here too) mainly on Stagea threads that it can by "turn off" with Nistune. But they say they still had the sensor plug in. Next week iam going to the Nistune(and other ECUs) tuner so i can finally make it work. I drove the car home and apart from the cut it drove great. No misfire no smoke no hesitation or rough start...so hoping it is this sensor that is missing  
    • I just stack 2 pieces of 200x50 timber on top of each other. Total length about 900mm, with the top one being a little shorter and both having a 45° angle cut on them to make the front edge a bit of a ramp. Put these in front of each front wheel, drive up on them, throw the trolley jack under. Takes 1 minute. Scissor jacks can eat a bowl of dicks. I never use on under my car unless desperate.
×
×
  • Create New...