Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday,

I recently took my car to the tyre shop to get some new tyres fitted and the guys freaked when they saw the spacers on the front wheel.

"YOU GO TO THE TRACK AND YOU HAVE SPACERS?!?! FUARRK"

They're the type that screw into the hub and they have their own studs the wheel goes on. The wheels I have don't seem to have the guide the goes onto/around the hub so the studs do all the work. I always thought that was normal.

Is this dangerous? Should I be taking the spacers off on the track and putting a full set of wheels with no spacers on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119216-spacers-and-track-days/
Share on other sites

i dunno, i've thought about it a bit too. i mean generally the little hub ring is what carries all the load, the studs just pull the wheel onto it. so if it's not sitting on that lip the it may not be centrally located (though the tapered wheel nuts should ensure it is pretty much there). plus like you say all the load is on the studs. I have acutally heard of a guy who had wheels on with no hubcentric ring and on the track (phillip island) his studs broke and the wheel came flying off. so i guess it is a risk.

Shit Richard sounds bad.

I heard of this hub ring thing in another thread but regardless of my spacers my wheels don't have this. Is this bad? They're manarays so they're not total rubbish.

I can't remember if the spacers have a hub ring.

So.. I should be getting new wheels or what?

yeah, there is some debate over this,

they are not legal in victoria.. however they are commonly used, and I haven't heard of any bad experiences with them, i mean as long as all the nuts are tight, it shouldn't be any different to having lower offset wheels on? I guess the centering could be an issue but i really don't know.

Definitely a concern. My spacers o the track car fit tight onto the hub ring so centering and shear loads are carried by the hub, then there is a further ring for the wheel and a different PCD of studs in the spacer.

Hunt around to see if you can get locating rings to fill the space or even get them machined to suit at an engineering shop. Certainly worth the peace of mind. I've seen plenty of studs brocken and a lot were with cheap spacers you get from Superautocheapbarn.

Definitely a concern. My spacers o the track car fit tight onto the hub ring so centering and shear loads are carried by the hub, then there is a further ring for the wheel and a different PCD of studs in the spacer.

Hunt around to see if you can get locating rings to fill the space or even get them machined to suit at an engineering shop. Certainly worth the peace of mind. I've seen plenty of studs brocken and a lot were with cheap spacers you get from Superautocheapbarn.

D'oh. Yet another thing to do ;)

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll double check my spacers I hope they're ok.

I don't understand how the wheels would be made without the centering ring however. Maybe I've just missed it but everytime I put the wheel on I use one of the studs as a guide. When I look through the wheels where they attached to the hub it's just the 2 surfaces put together - so if you don't do up the nuts for example, the wheel will just flay, not sit tight on the hub ring. This is even true for the rear wheels which have no spacers.

:(

CC: have a nother look at them. when they are on the car they just look flat up against the hub, that's because the ring goes inside a recess in the wheel. sometimes this recess is too big in which case you will need to fit a hubcentric ring to make it the correct size. aluminium ones are good, but some people like plastic ones. the wheel wont sit on it without the nuts done up (it will just flay like you say), that is why you need the nuts and studs to force it onto the hub ring. it definately is important.

there is nothing wrong with bolt on spacers really providing they fit on the hub ring, and have another ring on their face to locate your wheel and take the force.

well here's some info on google:

Hub centric rings are manufactured so that when they are installed on a vehicle, the wheels are located directly off of the centre flange of the brake drum or rotor. This is done to insure that the outer beads of the wheel are concentric with the wheel bearings. The result is a much truer, better balanced tire/wheel assembly. This is very important with modern high tech suspension systems.

that explains the rings i was talking about. they have an OD to fit snugly into your rim and an ID that allows them to fit snugly over the OD of the centre of the hub.

edit: they look like so:

hubrings_large.jpg

see the ring in the centre of the hub, this is what your wheel (or spacer) needs to fit snugly onto:

WheelHubSmall.jpg

without this contact you 'can' get broken studs premeturely worn wheel bearings (which you can get running spacers and/or very wide wheels) and at worst a runaway wheel...

i don't have spacers, but the work rims i got had a central hole bigger than the hub (ie didn't centre correctly on the hub).

was a little concerned that this would be putting unnecessary stress on the studs, so bought a set of those plastic rims for a wheel & tyre place for $20.

they basically just centre the rim on the hub correctly.

the best ones to get are the aluminium ones (like this pic) but i'm sure the plastic ones are ok too. in fact i think now some people argue the plastic ones can be better depending on brand.

hubcentric-rings-alluminum.image.jpg

see the ring in the centre of the hub, this is what your wheel (or spacer) needs to fit snugly onto:

WheelHubSmall.jpg

without this contact you 'can' get broken studs premeturely worn wheel bearings (which you can get running spacers and/or very wide wheels) and at worst a runaway wheel...

Yep ok.

Thats what I was thinking :D

As I already have spacers... Is it posible to get something to go in to the wheel its self, that is longer than the spacer? I mean my mechanic isnt overly concerned, but Im just thinking R tyres at 160kmh or so, thats a fair bit of stress.

Hub rings aside, for spacers the bolt on ones are fine, they are just like a hub with a different offset and are not problem. But...the ones that slip over the wheel nuts (by far the most common) are not safe, the wheel nut does not have as much stud to screw onto and the stud itself is not properly supported (leverage at the end not right against the hub)

Hub rings aside, for spacers the bolt on ones are fine, they are just like a hub with a different offset and are not problem. But...the ones that slip over the wheel nuts (by far the most common) are not safe, the wheel nut does not have as much stud to screw onto and the stud itself is not properly supported (leverage at the end not right against the hub)

Yes... thats what I have. I got longer studs so the nut actually grips on to something. But I dont think thats a good fix.

I don't understand how the wheels would be made without the centering ring however.
It's not a problem of the wheel not having a centring ring (it does), it's that the spacers are lacking the matching half of the design.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...