Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

32s i found on the net. my 32 is black with stock rims haha

RB20 GT2535 18psi 300whp - the car's 20 years old this month!!! they don't make them like they used-to

carfront.jpg

ratty drifter, porn

ST340137.jpg

first dibs on this kit if I can find it!

SA3400151.jpg

SA3400161.jpg

local track radial tyre record holder (in japan) lightened to just over a ton and RB20 with 25 turbo.

img20090829.jpg

cheers

first dibs on this kit if I can find it!

SA3400151.jpg

SA3400161.jpg

cheers

Front bar vertex

side skirts vertex

and rear bar looks to be final konnexion

vertex parts are easy to get, ive got the side skirts and rear bar on my car

and final konnexion im pretty sure are also avaliable at some of the body kit places to

more details on this thanks.

Cool, I'll do my best but the pics are big as they get on the website I think. I got the pictures from a blog written by Tochi, from shop called YMS. This HCR was brought in by a customer (Super NOW) ‘NOW’ is phonetically spelled for ‘na-u’ (na-u-i), which is ‘trendy’ in Japanese. Who just got the track record for Nikko circuit 38.902 sec for radial tire TOYO R1R (I heard from a local Toyo guy that this is not released as a semi-slick any more, I got them on my car and it’s so soft like a semi ). This car also does the Tsukuba 2000 track in under a minute J sweet.

I read Japanese so I surf the Japanese side of the web.

The blog read something like… the car came in for a check and a possible retune, had the diff ratio changed, different boost controller installed. Base figure was 280hp at the rears, after the tune was 300hp on same RB25 stock turbo on a/m exhaust manifold. And came in later for another tune with an adjustable cam gear. The power was measured by dyno-pack. he might have this thing calibrated to show power at the flywheel, I donno. When I read some of the power figures on his site, all the power readings seems to be high ish. there isn't much info on the site apart from the motor. looks like lexan for glass atleast.

Im putting up all the pics from the web http://blog.goo-net.com/tochi/daily/200909/12

img20090829_1bay2.jpg

img20090827_1rear.jpg

img20090811_2interior.jpg

img20090811_5rearunder.jpg

img20090811_6underfront.jpg

img20090811_1bay.jpg

img20090912_2dyno2.jpg

img20090912_1camgear.jpg

img20090912who.jpg

hope you enjoy!

P.S thanks for the kit info

Yeah i also dont rate chromies AT ALL! Your current rims look good on the car though. Black on black can look good but sometimes the rim style is a bit lost cause they don't stand out. But time attack's are fkn sweet!

te37TimeAttack.jpg

OOOH those are DAMN SEXY!!!!!!

Cool, I'll do my best but the pics are big as they get on the website I think. I got the pictures from a blog written by Tochi, from shop called YMS. This HCR was brought in by a customer (Super NOW) ‘NOW’ is phonetically spelled for ‘na-u’ (na-u-i), which is ‘trendy’ in Japanese. Who just got the track record for Nikko circuit 38.902 sec for radial tire TOYO R1R (I heard from a local Toyo guy that this is not released as a semi-slick any more, I got them on my car and it’s so soft like a semi ). This car also does the Tsukuba 2000 track in under a minute J sweet.

I read Japanese so I surf the Japanese side of the web.

The blog read something like… the car came in for a check and a possible retune, had the diff ratio changed, different boost controller installed. Base figure was 280hp at the rears, after the tune was 300hp on same RB25 stock turbo on a/m exhaust manifold. And came in later for another tune with an adjustable cam gear. The power was measured by dyno-pack. he might have this thing calibrated to show power at the flywheel, I donno. When I read some of the power figures on his site, all the power readings seems to be high ish. there isn't much info on the site apart from the motor. looks like lexan for glass atleast.

Im putting up all the pics from the web http://blog.goo-net.com/tochi/daily/200909/12

thanks mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...