Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How's that a fake GT-R? Do you see any GT-R badges on it? All that resembles this car to a GT-R is a nice fast lift of a genuine bar, and a got set of R33 GT-R hwels to fill out the guards. If you know what you're looking at and truly passionate you would appreciate a car like this.

Gorgeous shots Tim - All the best with the car mate.

I hate fake GTR's with a passion!

Well, good things its not your car then :) I love the fact that you would HATE my car then :P I think I should put GTR badges on it to annoy people. But truth is I am waiting for some nice new GTSt decals from Nissan which it will wear with pride :(

19871_340712444740_606454740_4925665_2915896_n.jpg

thanks for comments :P heres a couple more i took today

20r8xhl.jpg

Exactly how I'm envisioning mine to look like in the near future except in black. Pure understated goodness!!

Well done on the purchase Tim. Great looking example

Hey Steve that's your old car yeah?

Still looking good!

Sure is mate :P I know Tim will take great care of her and keep her looking awesome.

My new car will be in the R33 pics thread soon - Purchased some HKS Coilovers I'm about to put in tomorrow and then I'll take some photos of the R. Will also be looking for some gunmetal 18x10 XD9's. If you see a set selling locally any time in the near future give us a yell :)

max what are the sizes of your wheels + tyres + any suspension mods?

Runnin Tein Coilovers maxed out

18x9 -2 215/40/18 front

18x10 -1 225/40/18 rear

Slight pull in front and .. huge pull in rear. I don't suggest this size on any GTST that is stock body. A big pull like that will mess up your fender as you can see on the closeup. I'm also running alot of negative camber.

Runnin Tein Coilovers maxed out

18x9 -2 215/40/18 front

18x10 -1 225/40/18 rear

Slight pull in front and .. huge pull in rear. I don't suggest this size on any GTST that is stock body. A big pull like that will mess up your fender as you can see on the closeup. I'm also running alot of negative camber.

BN rear, lose the rear wiper and maybe some east bear or bomex mirrors done, looking very cool

Well, good things its not your car then :( I love the fact that you would HATE my car then :D I think I should put GTR badges on it to annoy people. But truth is I am waiting for some nice new GTSt decals from Nissan which it will wear with pride :)

19871_340712444740_606454740_4925665_2915896_n.jpg

Haha!

I think you should have went with a R34 as you got the wheels and spoiler... ;)

Jokes.

Sure is mate :) I know Tim will take great care of her and keep her looking awesome.

My new car will be in the R33 pics thread soon - Purchased some HKS Coilovers I'm about to put in tomorrow and then I'll take some photos of the R. Will also be looking for some gunmetal 18x10 XD9's. If you see a set selling locally any time in the near future give us a yell ;)

Yeah you gota update your signature as well.

Heh!

Yeh, the wheels were borrowed from a friend while my TE37s were ebing stripped so we could re-paint them. They came up awesome, cant wait to get them on the car next week.

As for the rear wing, its rather hit and miss for me. I got it because i wanted a functional wing for track days. Was concerned many of the big aftermarket wings were more parachutes and drag adding then down force adding...so went with something that is obviously reasonable from the factory. I have a second boot lid that got painted up so it will be going on for street duties.

Runnin Tein Coilovers maxed out

18x9 -2 215/40/18 front

18x10 -1 225/40/18 rear

Slight pull in front and .. huge pull in rear. I don't suggest this size on any GTST that is stock body. A big pull like that will mess up your fender as you can see on the closeup. I'm also running alot of negative camber.

so in love with that car man

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...