Jump to content
SAU Community

044 Install Opinions

mr_rbman

By mr_rbman,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted

well currently i have a GTR fuel pump in my 32 and its time to upgrade (nothing is currently wrong with the GTR pump but will run out of puff with new mods) I was simply going to put the 044 intank and be done with it but after talking to a few people i learned that you can leave that pump intank as a lift pump and mount the 044 externally. I've had a good think about this and the more i think about it i think it would be a really good idea but i'm not too sure exaclty where to mount the 044 as i don't want/have a surge tank! Was also thinking this would be easier than mounting the 044 intank (quite a bit of modding needed)

If anyone has done this and has pics it would also be much appreciated!

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121001-044-install-opinions/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Mount it where ever it fits.

internally (inside boot) or externally (underside of the rear of the car)

Its upto you where you put it.

Most people going to the effort of installing a secondard inline fuel pump would have surge tanks IMO.

Going to all the effort there is no point not to.

So hence probably not a lot of people have two pumps for mild power applications

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
well currently i have a GTR fuel pump in my 32 and its time to upgrade (nothing is currently wrong with the GTR pump but will run out of puff with new mods) I was simply going to put the 044 intank and be done with it but after talking to a few people i learned that you can leave that pump intank as a lift pump and mount the 044 externally. I've had a good think about this and the more i think about it i think it would be a really good idea but i'm not too sure exaclty where to mount the 044 as i don't want/have a surge tank! Was also thinking this would be easier than mounting the 044 intank (quite a bit of modding needed)

If anyone has done this and has pics it would also be much appreciated!

cheers!

Here’s the problem, most guys find that installing a second pump is not as easy as it sounds. You have to;

1. find space for it

2. mount it in rubber as they vibrate a lot

3. run the fuel lines to it

4. run a separate relay, as 2 pumps draw too much current for the standard wiring

5. run a decent size power supply from the battery to the pump

Compared to, remove the standard pump and make a few small mods and install the 044. Later on, if you need the extra flow that 13.8 volts gives you, you can run the relay and dedicated power supply.

That’s the reason most people do the pump swap, it is actually easier/faster/simpler.

>_< cheers :(

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
Posted

ok just pulled my old pump out and realised that GTR and GTS have different set ups

looks like its going to be a shit load easier to fit it in tank than i expected

what will happen if i dont install a check valve?

saliya Rising Star

saliya

Posted
Posted
what will happen if i dont install a check valve?

The check valve stops fuel flowing back to the tank when the pump is off.

So when you turn your car off basically you'll lose fuel pressure, the longer it's

off the more pressure you lose.

In real terms this means when turning it back on after it being off overnight

you might need to wait a few seconds between switching the pump on and

engaging the starter motor.

I'd leave the check-valve on there :P

Regards,

Saliya

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
044 do not come with a check valve

either way im off to buy one now :wave:

mine came with a banjo style fitting with a check valve... i removed it and installed one from motorsport connections ..

lets you use a straight fitting Vs the banjo style side exit off the pump.. also lets you use a speedflow type screw on fitting for your main feed line from the pump...

plus it screws directly into the fitting on the end of the pump as well

think it was about $50

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
mine came with a banjo style fitting with a check valve... i removed it and installed one from motorsport connections ..

lets you use a straight fitting Vs the banjo style side exit off the pump.. also lets you use a speedflow type screw on fitting for your main feed line from the pump...

plus it screws directly into the fitting on the end of the pump as well

think it was about $50

any pics of this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...