Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah i think i might sell the turbo and put a power fc in. at the moment, when i turn up the boost the skyline isnt handling it. i set it at 11 psi and it jolts and splatters right up until 5000rpm then it takes off smoothly and well. its kinda like theres something delaying the boost until 5000rpm and then it throws it all at it at once. either that or i think the boost may be venting somewhere. the BOV isnt working either, i can hear the pressure shooting through the air pod. ever heard of something like this before????

Dude..

You are getting so far ahead of yourself it’s not funny.

Stop, take a breath and do some searches on these forums.

Firstly, you have an essentially stock car.

So you really should go through the stages of modifications to make sure all is well and you don’t end up lunching an rb25.

Now.

What mods to do first…

Save you some searching time as it gets a little cluttered here..

And I feel sorry for you a little cause you seem to have come across someone who has now obviously ripped you off and gave you bad advice.

Start here..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=45218

Just like with everything in life, you need to have a goal.

We seem to have found that out now.

You want a “quick street car”

I agree with NIZMOID that a quick street car is up to about 250rwkw…

Achievable, streetable and most likely reliable.

See if you can get your money back for that turbo.

If you can great.

If not, sell it on these forums to someone who can make some use of it.

If you want to know what mods will net you about 250rwkw, have a look at the rb25 dyno thread and see what mods people have and what power they make..

Here.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=55845

This should be a good starting point for you.

Then continue on here..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556

Good luck

  • 2 weeks later...

i went back to the place i bought it from and surprisingly enough theyve gone backrupt and can only get a credit back on the turbo which is no good to them because theyre selling everything. now i need your guys help to sell it. can someone help me? ive lost quiet abit of money now cos i paid over $2000 for it and have no idea how much i could sell it for.. help anyone?????????????????

its a garrett 3582R or sumthing along those lines. it isnt a 3540 i know that for sure.

Sorry, sounds like it's what is commonly called a 3540 anyway. Garrett GT3582R is a GT35 with a 0.82 rear IIRC?!?!?

Sell it soon and get a highflow.

Adrian

might be interested in swapping it for a highflow + some cash, ill do some figures and work it out for you, see if its worthwhile.

yeah im all for selling it because i cant afford all the things i need to back it up.. can anyone help me sell it?
sell your monstor turbo

buy this http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/26

than buy a 040 fuel pump

than buy a Z32 AFM

than buy a decent boost controller

you can easily get the gtrs tuned safely to around 250rwkw without to much to worry about and if you wish to push it further.. add a set of pon cams and up the boost

Im with you on this one either the

HKS PROS

HKS 2535

highflo standard

wouldnt bother with a 700hp turbo on a RB25 'lag city' and without forged internals you are not going to get the full potential out of it .

is a 3582R the same turbo as a 35/40 with a .82 rear housing?

Exactly the same mate.

The 3582r is the same as a gt3540 with a .82 rear housing - hence the 82 on the end.

Anyway ive got a GT3540 and i put it on my r33 thinking it was simple. How wrong was i.

I ended up having to purchase all this extra stuff.

Exhaust manifold

Inlet Plenum

Intercooler and pipes

Injectors

Oil and Water lines (went to braided items)

Megga expensive. If i could go back to where you are now I would and I would get a nice bolt on hks turbo kept my old setup and drive away in no time at all.

Instead i had to have the car off the road for 7 months while i saved and purchased all the extra items. But now that its all over - I got a 3 litre btw - I have a setup that if tuned properly i could bag way over 300rwkw.

But atm im sitting on 260rwkw and very happy on the street. My lag is not very huge because i have a 3 litre.. i get full boost 16psi by about 3300rpm which is damn nice on the street.

Try one of them kkr turbo's or something.. cheap and easy and get nice power.

good luck with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...